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Wondering why you would want this. If its mounted to the motor , i see no reason , if to the chassis then yes. I hit my pan backing out of my driveway straight rather than an angle and clipped the rear of the pan on the asphalt. Luckily just a scrap and no damage. If I had an extra plate attached to the motor I figure I would have severly damaged it and applied more trauma to the motor itself. Jmo
Wondering why you would want this. If its mounted to the motor , i see no reason , if to the chassis then yes. I hit my pan backing out of my driveway straight rather than an angle and clipped the rear of the pan on the asphalt. Luckily just a scrap and no damage. If I had an extra plate attached to the motor I figure I would have severly damaged it and applied more trauma to the motor itself. Jmo
II have it on my 997.1 to protect the lower hanging MantisSport 2L deep sump. Since it attaches to the chassis, it probably does work on the .2 cars as well.
The OEM skid plate is a joke - mounts to the motor itself and is thin aluminum. The LN one is much thicker and made of stainless steel.
Wouldn't that add heat to the engine, since the heat flows down from the top engine fans? It will also reduce wind flow. Basically, you are trapping the heat.
Wouldn't that add heat to the engine, since the heat flows down from the top engine fans? It will also reduce wind flow. Basically, you are trapping the heat.
Doubt it - no observed oil temp difference with or without the skid plate installed over the past year - the deep sump did lower them about 10 degrees F. There's still plenty of air tumbling around under there, plus, when moving, my cooling fan never runs. I have a RUF decklid that is open all way across the back slots so lots of air pouring in when underway, plus heat rises when the fans aren't running - it doesn't drop away to the ground.
Close-up of decklid with venting
Even if it did trap some heat, I'd rather run a couple degrees warmer with Driven DT40 oil (which is good up to 300 degrees F by the way) and not risk smashing the bottom of the motor on a speed hump like that linked to in the other thread or a roadkill that's unavoidable due to traffic.
I don't know why Porsche keeps doing this - well, actually I do, it's cost - but you'd think they would've learned their lesson with the Cayenne 955 coolant pipes, that constant heat cycling of plastics doesn't work out well. They get brittle and crack, but I guess they figure they'll all be out of warranty by then. However, just wait until they start failing and all the oil ends up on the rear tires - that will be quite a lawsuit.