Bose Head Unit Replacement in a 997S for under $150 and in 30 minutes or less....
07-20-2018 | 09:17 PM
#106
Racer
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 319
Likes: 25
From: Edwards, CO
Adding this mounting kit link as it looks possibly better than the Metra kit.
https://cai-store.com/collections/99...radio-dash-kit
https://cai-store.com/collections/99...radio-dash-kit
07-21-2018 | 05:07 PM
#108
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 173
From: Seattle-ish, WA
I still think $150 is too much for a dash kit. I'm not too happy with the Metra kit, but it's just $12 
The side panels in the Metra kit deform and break easily when you screw the HU to it.
I've seen kits with a metal panel/box instead.. and they were for $50 or so.. I think I'll go with those now.
The side panels in the Metra kit deform and break easily when you screw the HU to it.
I've seen kits with a metal panel/box instead.. and they were for $50 or so.. I think I'll go with those now.
07-25-2018 | 01:34 PM
#109
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 173
From: Seattle-ish, WA
Short answer: The Connects2 module/kit really works 
But the issue I have now, is mostly due to the buggy Sony XAV-AX100.
Default mode for the steering wheel controls only detects the volume wheel - so that was useless.
This head unit has a custom mode where you can set steering wheel controls to functions individually.
There seems to be a small 15-20 sec window where it registers things, and then it throws an error and forgets all the buttons!
And you can't edit a custom control-set.. you have to start afresh.
Several others with different cars and different steering interfaces had the same complaints about the Sony XAV-AX100.
It doesn't look like Sony gives a damn as some of them reached out to "Tier 2 support" and one guy even got to their engineering department.
Their code is open sourced, but I couldn't get head or tail out of it or understand how I could get it to build and then deploy onto my head unit.
It's a shame that custom controls don't work. Otherwise I would rate this to be a very good head unit that covers a lot of functionality.
There's no other way to get CarPlay and AndroidAuto at this price point It boots up pretty fast and has a bunch of cool features.
And the best part is.. only the front face is a double din size.. the actual head unit it a single din.. so you have a lot of space to stash your harnesses and modules!
For what it's worth, I tried several iterations of the custom controls to see if the Connects2 module can detect/use all of the buttons (2-3 per iteration)
e.g. I would try to use the right wheel for volume or use the "source" button for next track or phone buttons for mute etc.
From those experiments, I think the Connects2 module can detect all the controls (just need to double-check the "back" button).
I could even get the phone buttons to work (the Connects2 website says that it will work only for Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, Pioneer and Zenec)
To summarize, I think the Connects2 module works really well for 997/987 But they don't sell this particular steering module as a standalone.
You have to buy the full kit (CTSPO005.2) unfortunately. I didn't have the courage or patience to buy one of their non-kit steering modules to see if it would still work.
I suspect one of their modules will definitely work - it doesn't make sense as a business to make a unicorn module that is sold only with a kit.
I'm exploring other head unit options currently and will mostly put my old seicane box, and the head unit stuff for sale soon.
I also have a TranzitBluHF kit that was on the car previously which I've since removed and will sell soon.
Hope my rant/discourse is helpful at least to a small degree
Thanks
Shyam
But the issue I have now, is mostly due to the buggy Sony XAV-AX100.
Default mode for the steering wheel controls only detects the volume wheel - so that was useless.
This head unit has a custom mode where you can set steering wheel controls to functions individually.
There seems to be a small 15-20 sec window where it registers things, and then it throws an error and forgets all the buttons!
And you can't edit a custom control-set.. you have to start afresh.
Several others with different cars and different steering interfaces had the same complaints about the Sony XAV-AX100.
It doesn't look like Sony gives a damn as some of them reached out to "Tier 2 support" and one guy even got to their engineering department.
Their code is open sourced, but I couldn't get head or tail out of it or understand how I could get it to build and then deploy onto my head unit.
It's a shame that custom controls don't work. Otherwise I would rate this to be a very good head unit that covers a lot of functionality.
There's no other way to get CarPlay and AndroidAuto at this price point
It boots up pretty fast and has a bunch of cool features.And the best part is.. only the front face is a double din size.. the actual head unit it a single din.. so you have a lot of space to stash your harnesses and modules!
For what it's worth, I tried several iterations of the custom controls to see if the Connects2 module can detect/use all of the buttons (2-3 per iteration)
e.g. I would try to use the right wheel for volume or use the "source" button for next track or phone buttons for mute etc.
From those experiments, I think the Connects2 module can detect all the controls (just need to double-check the "back" button).
I could even get the phone buttons to work
(the Connects2 website says that it will work only for Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, Pioneer and Zenec)To summarize, I think the Connects2 module works really well for 997/987
But they don't sell this particular steering module as a standalone.You have to buy the full kit (CTSPO005.2) unfortunately. I didn't have the courage or patience to buy one of their non-kit steering modules to see if it would still work.
I suspect one of their modules will definitely work - it doesn't make sense as a business to make a unicorn module that is sold only with a kit.
I'm exploring other head unit options currently and will mostly put my old seicane box, and the head unit stuff for sale soon.
I also have a TranzitBluHF kit that was on the car previously which I've since removed and will sell soon.
Hope my rant/discourse is helpful at least to a small degree
Thanks
Shyam
The trick was to set the "dip switches" in the module correctly (after opening it up). Out of the box, they come setup for Pioneer.
Once dip switch 4 was set to OFF (now all of the 4 dip switches are OFF), I was able to get the buttons to work.
Both preset mode as well as the custom (learning mode) in the HU are working as expected.
But I'm still debating if I want to keep the HU vs a Pioneer one that arrives today
Cheers
Shyam
07-25-2018 | 04:55 PM
#111
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
An update: The Sony XAV-AX100 now works completely with the Connects2 steering controls interface!
The trick was to set the "dip switches" in the module correctly (after opening it up). Out of the box, they come setup for Pioneer.
Once dip switch 4 was set to OFF (now all of the 4 dip switches are OFF), I was able to get the buttons to work.
Both preset mode as well as the custom (learning mode) in the HU are working as expected.
But I'm still debating if I want to keep the HU vs a Pioneer one that arrives today
Cheers
Shyam
The trick was to set the "dip switches" in the module correctly (after opening it up). Out of the box, they come setup for Pioneer.
Once dip switch 4 was set to OFF (now all of the 4 dip switches are OFF), I was able to get the buttons to work.
Both preset mode as well as the custom (learning mode) in the HU are working as expected.
But I'm still debating if I want to keep the HU vs a Pioneer one that arrives today
Cheers
Shyam
how do you like the Sony? - I ALMOST went in that direction - but went the the Pioneer for the Wireless carplay and the ability to use Waze through AppRadio.
07-25-2018 | 10:11 PM
#112
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 173
From: Seattle-ish, WA
I wanted to go that route, but they're too expensive and only support CarPlay (albeit wireless).The biggest drawback for me was that the "entry level" Alpine HUs don't support anything other than CarPlay.
You can customize the wallpaper. Sound quality is pretty nice as well.
And the custom steering controls is a bonus
But I'm not sure if I'll use CarPlay or AndroidAuto that much, irrespective of whether it is wired or wireless.
Ideally I just want to be able to receive calls via bluetooth. I have all my music dumped into an iPod classic.
I mainly need bluetooth, USB, iPod (Classic if possible), which is why I'm waiting to try the Pioneer HU.
The Pioneer I ordered (AVH-X491BHS) also supports Aux input - and I have some project plans for this
07-30-2018 | 06:14 PM
#113
Track Day
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
I have a boxster 2004 base with factory amp (not sure if it is BOSE system). I have door speakers too (no BOSE logo). I want to replace my CDR23 with a single DIN. However, after purchasing the unit, I realized I have fiber optic cable (after pulling out unit) and it doesn't fit with the unit I got. So I purchased metra 70-1787 which will ship in couple of days. Do I need to get a Optical Fiber Head Unit Replacement decoder as well? If so I was looking at this -
Can anyone tell me if this will work? Also, am I missing anything for this upgrade? I want to do this without replacing the AMP or wiring speakers directly.
Head unit : Metra 70-1787 :
Thanks for your time.
Can anyone tell me if this will work? Also, am I missing anything for this upgrade? I want to do this without replacing the AMP or wiring speakers directly.
Head unit : Metra 70-1787 :
Thanks for your time.
Last edited by adam smith; 07-31-2018 at 11:28 AM.
07-31-2018 | 02:13 PM
#114
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 173
From: Seattle-ish, WA
If you see a fiber optic cable, then there is definitely a MOST ring and you will need a MOST decoder box.
Becker Audio made the CDR23 - it might be worth giving them a call to find out more details. They're pretty helpful and friendly.
The MOST box you pointed to seems to be only for Mercedes. Maybe you should confirm with the seller.
I did some digging and found this: http://www.autoaux.com/pd_20645_Merc...converter-.htm
This site says there is a "Type A" only for Mercedes and there is a "Type B" that works for newer Mercedes and Porsche.
This points to the Longate MOST box which is pretty much the same as a Seicane one (recommended in this thread). And Longate says this box works for both 997 and 996.
They're all priced at $90 or so at best.
If you can confirm from Seicane that their MOST box would work for the 986/996 as well then we could strike a deal (backstory, my previous posts) since I have a spare Seicane MOST box.
Thanks
Shyam
Becker Audio made the CDR23 - it might be worth giving them a call to find out more details. They're pretty helpful and friendly.
The MOST box you pointed to seems to be only for Mercedes. Maybe you should confirm with the seller.
I did some digging and found this: http://www.autoaux.com/pd_20645_Merc...converter-.htm
This site says there is a "Type A" only for Mercedes and there is a "Type B" that works for newer Mercedes and Porsche.
This points to the Longate MOST box which is pretty much the same as a Seicane one (recommended in this thread). And Longate says this box works for both 997 and 996.
They're all priced at $90 or so at best.
If you can confirm from Seicane that their MOST box would work for the 986/996 as well then we could strike a deal (backstory, my previous posts) since I have a spare Seicane MOST box.
Thanks
Shyam
07-31-2018 | 02:30 PM
#115
Track Day
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
If you see a fiber optic cable, then there is definitely a MOST ring and you will need a MOST decoder box.
Becker Audio made the CDR23 - it might be worth giving them a call to find out more details. They're pretty helpful and friendly.
The MOST box you pointed to seems to be only for Mercedes. Maybe you should confirm with the seller.
I did some digging and found this: http://www.autoaux.com/pd_20645_Merc...converter-.htm
This site says there is a "Type A" only for Mercedes and there is a "Type B" that works for newer Mercedes and Porsche.
This points to the Longate MOST box which is pretty much the same as a Seicane one (recommended in this thread). And Longate says this box works for both 997 and 996.
They're all priced at $90 or so at best.
If you can confirm from Seicane that their MOST box would work for the 986/996 as well then we could strike a deal (backstory, my previous posts) since I have a spare Seicane MOST box.
Thanks
Shyam
Becker Audio made the CDR23 - it might be worth giving them a call to find out more details. They're pretty helpful and friendly.
The MOST box you pointed to seems to be only for Mercedes. Maybe you should confirm with the seller.
I did some digging and found this: http://www.autoaux.com/pd_20645_Merc...converter-.htm
This site says there is a "Type A" only for Mercedes and there is a "Type B" that works for newer Mercedes and Porsche.
This points to the Longate MOST box which is pretty much the same as a Seicane one (recommended in this thread). And Longate says this box works for both 997 and 996.
They're all priced at $90 or so at best.
If you can confirm from Seicane that their MOST box would work for the 986/996 as well then we could strike a deal (backstory, my previous posts) since I have a spare Seicane MOST box.
Thanks
Shyam
08-01-2018 | 05:58 PM
#116
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 173
From: Seattle-ish, WA
I'm in need of a MOST Fiber optic cable extension to relocate my MOST decoder box - there's absolutely no space in the HU cubby.
If anyone has a spare cable lying around, please let me know.
https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...extension.html
I did find some retailers online.. but they all ship off China and it takes a decade to arrive.
Thanks
Shyam
If anyone has a spare cable lying around, please let me know.
https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...extension.html
I did find some retailers online.. but they all ship off China and it takes a decade to arrive.
Thanks
Shyam
08-06-2018 | 04:54 PM
#117
Track Day
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
So I got the MOST and harness from CAI. Wired everything according to the steps in the first post. I am using ignition for switched power as per CAI instructions. (https://cai-store.com/pages/911-boxs...din-conversion). The head unit and speakers work.
Note: I did'not connect the blue / white wire coming from red adapter (mentioned in the above link) to anything yet. I am not sure where this goes.
I have two issues :
1. There is a slight noise that increases and decreases depending on rpm. (when I press gas pedal it goes up)
2. When I turn off the key and remove it, there is a POP sound coming from my speakers. Sometimes this sound is very small and sometimes it is very loud.
Any help will be really appreciated.
Note: I did'not connect the blue / white wire coming from red adapter (mentioned in the above link) to anything yet. I am not sure where this goes.
I have two issues :
1. There is a slight noise that increases and decreases depending on rpm. (when I press gas pedal it goes up)
2. When I turn off the key and remove it, there is a POP sound coming from my speakers. Sometimes this sound is very small and sometimes it is very loud.
Any help will be really appreciated.
08-06-2018 | 05:42 PM
#118
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 173
From: Seattle-ish, WA
So I got the MOST and harness from CAI. Wired everything according to the steps in the first post. I am using ignition for switched power as per CAI instructions. (https://cai-store.com/pages/911-boxs...din-conversion). The head unit and speakers work.
Note: I did'not connect the blue / white wire coming from red adapter (mentioned in the above link) to anything yet. I am not sure where this goes.
I have two issues :
1. There is a slight noise that increases and decreases depending on rpm. (when I press gas pedal it goes up)
2. When I turn off the key and remove it, there is a POP sound coming from my speakers. Sometimes this sound is very small and sometimes it is very loud.
Any help will be really appreciated.
Note: I did'not connect the blue / white wire coming from red adapter (mentioned in the above link) to anything yet. I am not sure where this goes.
I have two issues :
1. There is a slight noise that increases and decreases depending on rpm. (when I press gas pedal it goes up)
2. When I turn off the key and remove it, there is a POP sound coming from my speakers. Sometimes this sound is very small and sometimes it is very loud.
Any help will be really appreciated.
Typically, the blue/white wire from the HU is the input signal to the amplifier or an antenna (so that the stereo can control when it turns on and off).
In our case this blue/white should be the switched power (red wire) to the MOST box. That is how I did it (and so have others as well).
1. You might have a noisy ground (look up "alternator whine speaker"). Ideally you should chase down all the connections and ensure that they are good, esp ground and power.
Alternatively, using a "ground loop isolator" can help with this situation (I did it on my previous 997 when I was lazy/ignorant and didn't bother to make good connections).
2. The pop sound is because the amplifier is turned off after a delay from when the HU/car is turned off. So the amp runs on "noise" for a while before it is powered off.
Using the blue/white wire may help with this - the HU will wait to turn off the amp before it powers down.
You could also install a relay ("remote turn on module") to help with this.
In my case, I used the Connects2 module to give me a switched power output that I can use for both the HU and the MOST box, so I don't have this problem at all.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Shyam
08-06-2018 | 06:08 PM
#119
Track Day
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Although I'm not an expert, I'll speak from my experience..
Typically, the blue/white wire from the HU is the input signal to the amplifier or an antenna (so that the stereo can control when it turns on and off).
In our case this blue/white should be the switched power (red wire) to the MOST box. That is how I did it (and so have others as well).
1. You might have a noisy ground (look up "alternator whine speaker"). Ideally you should chase down all the connections and ensure that they are good, esp ground and power.
Alternatively, using a "ground loop isolator" can help with this situation (I did it on my previous 997 when I was lazy/ignorant and didn't bother to make good connections).
2. The pop sound is because the amplifier is turned off after a delay from when the HU/car is turned off. So the amp runs on "noise" for a while before it is powered off.
Using the blue/white wire may help with this - the HU will wait to turn off the amp before it powers down.You could also install a relay ("remote turn on module") to help with this.
In my case, I used the Connects2 module to give me a switched power output that I can use for both the HU and the MOST box, so I don't have this problem at all.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Shyam
Typically, the blue/white wire from the HU is the input signal to the amplifier or an antenna (so that the stereo can control when it turns on and off).
In our case this blue/white should be the switched power (red wire) to the MOST box. That is how I did it (and so have others as well).
1. You might have a noisy ground (look up "alternator whine speaker"). Ideally you should chase down all the connections and ensure that they are good, esp ground and power.
Alternatively, using a "ground loop isolator" can help with this situation (I did it on my previous 997 when I was lazy/ignorant and didn't bother to make good connections).
2. The pop sound is because the amplifier is turned off after a delay from when the HU/car is turned off. So the amp runs on "noise" for a while before it is powered off.
Using the blue/white wire may help with this - the HU will wait to turn off the amp before it powers down.You could also install a relay ("remote turn on module") to help with this.
In my case, I used the Connects2 module to give me a switched power output that I can use for both the HU and the MOST box, so I don't have this problem at all.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Shyam
I will check for good connections, this is how I have them now.
08-06-2018 | 09:24 PM
#120
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 173
From: Seattle-ish, WA
Yes. The blue/white wire is the one coming from the HU.. this should go to ONLY the MOST box's red wire (one with the white tag)
Curious question: If the metra harness gives you switched power from the vehicle harness itself.. what is the fat wire in the red adapter doing?
I see this wire going into the HU cubby with a blue collar..
If you have a switched power wire coming from the metra harness, then use that itself for the HU.
Your MOST box will anyways get it's red wire from the blue/white.
So looks like you may not even need this red adapter
Also.. I wouldn't recommend the T-splices you are using. Posi-Taps give a much cleaner connection.
I also suggest to use butt connectors (crimp or solder+heat shrink) for wire-end to wire-end connections.
Lastly.. if your HU has AndroidAuto/CarPlay, then it might depend on the parking brake signal.
Most HUs even disable some functions if they don't get this signal.
Depending on the HU you may be able to ground this wire, or have it take switched power.
But the safest thing to do is to get a relay/bypass device to give the proper signal.
Thanks
Shyam
Curious question: If the metra harness gives you switched power from the vehicle harness itself.. what is the fat wire in the red adapter doing?
I see this wire going into the HU cubby with a blue collar..
If you have a switched power wire coming from the metra harness, then use that itself for the HU.
Your MOST box will anyways get it's red wire from the blue/white.
So looks like you may not even need this red adapter
Also.. I wouldn't recommend the T-splices you are using. Posi-Taps give a much cleaner connection.
I also suggest to use butt connectors (crimp or solder+heat shrink) for wire-end to wire-end connections.
Lastly.. if your HU has AndroidAuto/CarPlay, then it might depend on the parking brake signal.
Most HUs even disable some functions if they don't get this signal.
Depending on the HU you may be able to ground this wire, or have it take switched power.
But the safest thing to do is to get a relay/bypass device to give the proper signal.
Thanks
Shyam