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I soldered some, but mostly used tap connectors to tie into the factory wiring.
I have always been told to avoid the tap connectors as they dont make very secure connections. This weekend I will be fiddling with my system again to try to and figure out how to get rid of the pop and whine.
@ilovemaui over all I will say its easy to install once you fully understand the way it needs to be wired! I dont know which hardware kit you have for mounting the system, but I would say take some test drives to make sure you dont have the alternator whine and the speaker pop before putting the radio in place. With the hardware kit I have, its a PITA to get the radio back out.
I have always been told to avoid the tap connectors as they dont make very secure connections. This weekend I will be fiddling with my system again to try to and figure out how to get rid of the pop and whine.
@ilovemaui over all I will say its easy to install once you fully understand the way it needs to be wired! I dont know which hardware kit you have for mounting the system, but I would say take some test drives to make sure you dont have the alternator whine and the speaker pop before putting the radio in place. With the hardware kit I have, its a PITA to get the radio back out.
I haven't used a parking brake bypass (bought one, but returned it as soon as I realized I wanted the steering controls also to work - which required a CanBus module )
You could use the same ground wires as the HU. Check out this video that shows how to add the bypass to an already-wired harness.
I have always been told to avoid the tap connectors as they dont make very secure connections. This weekend I will be fiddling with my system again to try to and figure out how to get rid of the pop and whine.
@ilovemaui over all I will say its easy to install once you fully understand the way it needs to be wired! I dont know which hardware kit you have for mounting the system, but I would say take some test drives to make sure you dont have the alternator whine and the speaker pop before putting the radio in place. With the hardware kit I have, its a PITA to get the radio back out.
After speaking with CAI this morning I ordered their pre wired kit.
I have always been told to avoid the tap connectors as they dont make very secure connections. This weekend I will be fiddling with my system again to try to and figure out how to get rid of the pop and whine.
I was of the same thought, but for the tight spaces, it’s hard to beat tap connectors. That said, for some of the smaller wires, there’s hardly ever an easy option. I’ve doubled over the new wire going into the tap connector to help ensure a good connection.
I spoke to PAC and they said the TR4 and TR12 wont resolve the speaker pop when the car is turned off.
@shyamvenky does the HU turn on the amp or when you turn the car on does that turn the amp on? If the Blue/White wire that is attached to the red wire on the Most turns on the amp then the TR4 or TR12 should be able to connect at that point to turn on/off the amp, no?
I spoke to PAC and they said the TR4 and TR12 wont resolve the speaker pop when the car is turned off.
@shyamvenky does the HU turn on the amp or when you turn the car on does that turn the amp on? If the Blue/White wire that is attached to the red wire on the Most turns on the amp then the TR4 or TR12 should be able to connect at that point to turn on/off the amp, no?
Thanks!
Turn-on pop is easier to fix, since what we need is to delay the amp turn-on. This is what is done by the HU blue/white wire already.
For turn-off pop, you need to ensure that the amp turns off before the HU => again, the blue/white wire should do this. But how long the HU waits before turning itself off (after turning off blue/white) depends on the HU.
It might be that the Bose amp needs 2 seconds to completely turn off and the Sony HU is not waiting that long.
The reason it is harder to fix it is because you don't need to delay things.. you actually need to advance/retard the timing.
That is why there aren't that many aftermarket products to help with this.
One workaround you can do is add a relay (much like the Pac devices) to set this delay to 15 sec or longer so that you're at least out of the car by the time it pops.
What this also does is delay the turn-on also, so you might have to wait a bit before you start hearing music.
Now I don't know if the pop can damage the speakers long-term.
The other cheaper, manual option is to have a switch for the MOST box (and hence amp) and remember to turn it on/off.
Neither of these are practical I guess..
Ideally if you could devise a circuit for a module to do the following, then it would be peachy
The module would take in an ignition-controlled power line (like HU red) and the blue/white wire.
Output should be on (12V) only if both red and blue/white are on (AND gate)
turn on => red would already be on, so it will wait for blue/white before turning on amp
turn off => red would be off before blue/white, so amp would turn off before HU
Merely connecting the red and blue/white does NOT accomplish this - you really need an AND gate.
I spoke to PAC and they said the TR4 and TR12 wont resolve the speaker pop when the car is turned off.
@shyamvenky does the HU turn on the amp or when you turn the car on does that turn the amp on? If the Blue/White wire that is attached to the red wire on the Most turns on the amp then the TR4 or TR12 should be able to connect at that point to turn on/off the amp, no?
Thanks!
The TR4 didn't work for me, unfortunately.
Still waiting for the Navone Engineering modules to show up.
(Came from Amazon in three days, beat the month wait from China and is identical)
It took some trial an error, but overall it was pretty straight forward. Looks amazing in my (new to me) ‘06 C2S Cabriolet. The value Metra kit has a pretty perfect colour match to the factory, and whilst the plastic side mounts are cheap and brittle, it looks good and mounts up where it counts. I’m also very happy to report (after some concern pre-install) that the Pioneer deck does not require the VSS line for wireless carplay but is throwing a warning about the disconnection intermittently.
I saw a lot of conflicting answers on wiring, so for anyone’s future reference this is what worked for me:
From the Metra 1784:
• Red wire (green / red from Porsche) is 12v constant and goes to yellow 12v on the head unit and yellow 12v on the HUR harness
• Black wire goes with ground and is shared with the parking brake adapter, HUR ground, and head unit ground
From the Pioneer head unit:
• Blue / white wire goes to the parking brake adapter
• Light green goes to parking brake adapter
• Audio L/R Front Output goes to the MOST HUR L/R Input
• Red ACC wire goes with red acc on the HUR and taps into the fuse box (I tapped C6 per other’s recommendations, this is ignition switched power)
One of the most annoying parts of the job was fishing the new GPS antenna through the footwell, the second time I’ve been down there since replacing the brake light switch on day one of ownership.
All-in-all it’s a fantastic upgrade and I’m very happy it worked out with the cheaper chinese MOST-HUR adapter.
One nice thing I discovered in the install, and proceeded to remove, is a Tooki by NavTV PCM Bluetooth Adapter. Is this something that is worth any money second hand?
Last edited by Lawrencejuliano; 06-13-2020 at 09:24 PM.
Reason: Update wiring
Well, I managed to trigger the airbag warning light in my install. Brilliant. Think this was when I forgot to reconnect the lower harness with the illumination wire / tap and turned on the ignition to test the unit.
Well, I managed to trigger the airbag warning light in my install. Brilliant. Think this was when I forgot to reconnect the lower harness with the illumination wire / tap and turned on the ignition to test the unit.
I managed to trip an air bag warning a week ago. Fortunately I've got a good friend who was willing to lend me his Durametric Pro. The reset turns out to be very easy. Shouldn't be a big deal at a dealer or an Indie to fix this.
06-05-2020, 01:46 PM
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