Oil leak at chain cover?
#1
Burning Brakes
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I've had zero luck finding good information on how common or uncommon this may be, but I've recently come across an accelerating leak at what seems to be either #3 or #17 in the diagram here. I've noticed the seal torn and bulging out of the case there, I can't recall which one it might be.
Anyone seen this before? Leak is on an engine with 42k and well-cared for. Seems unusual and from the looks of it, might've been an assembly flaw.
Anyone seen this before? Leak is on an engine with 42k and well-cared for. Seems unusual and from the looks of it, might've been an assembly flaw.
![](http://c782398.r98.cf2.rackcdn.com/103-05.gif)
#2
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I've had zero luck finding good information on how common or uncommon this may be, but I've recently come across an accelerating leak at what seems to be either #3 or #17 in the diagram here. I've noticed the seal torn and bulging out of the case there, I can't recall which one it might be.
Anyone seen this before? Leak is on an engine with 42k and well-cared for. Seems unusual and from the looks of it, might've been an assembly flaw.
Anyone seen this before? Leak is on an engine with 42k and well-cared for. Seems unusual and from the looks of it, might've been an assembly flaw.
I can share with you I have not come across a leak in that area in my research before or since I bought my 03 Turbo back in 2009. I have not heard from the techs of any cars with this leak.
The only leaks I'm familiar with are the RMS (just had this taken care of in my car) and I have read of I believe a Turbo oil line leak.
Regardless, get the leak fixed. But first be sure the actual source of the leak is clearly id'd.
#3
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Most likely 17 if you see the seal bulging out. Regardless, this oil leak will cost you $5-6K to fix... Engine removal, cams removed, cam housings removed, seal replacement, cam timing and reassemble.
#6
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#7
Burning Brakes
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So here is the leak, hard to see the expanded seal, but it looks like the oil line is leaking. It was a little loose and after tightening as far as I felt comfortable, it still leaks.
The solution at this point is to try and add a crush washer on there to see if that helps. If not, it might just need to be patched for now at least, maybe with something like Hylomar or the like.
![](http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/thebj/8A8CD37B-015A-4080-90F6-3AB14251278F-18103-00000B6B8E94ABFE_zpsf01da7ad.jpg)
The solution at this point is to try and add a crush washer on there to see if that helps. If not, it might just need to be patched for now at least, maybe with something like Hylomar or the like.
![](http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/thebj/8A8CD37B-015A-4080-90F6-3AB14251278F-18103-00000B6B8E94ABFE_zpsf01da7ad.jpg)
![](http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/thebj/9F7306B6-6C81-46A1-9255-6F9DB62FDAED-18103-00000B6BBEA77BB5_zps1c458df0.jpg)
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#9
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I think there are O-rings in the oil line connections and they have been known to go bad. Check it out.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Great input! Looks like we were all right with thoughts on the case seal there and also the line leaking from a crush washer. I've fixed the leak but not at the line yet, however thats easy and I'll get to that next, maybe at the next oil change.
solving the leak at the case was not easy as even with the oil drained from the case, the oil in that area could not be removed and it would stay wet.
I tried wiping it down and covering it with Hylomar, but that was a joke, didnt work at all.
i ended up putting a temporary patch over it using fibers from gauze and super glue to mix with the oil in between the two sealed parts of the case where the gasket was protruding and leaking. I then set it up quick with flame. It was pretty low-brow, but bought me the time i needed to seal the area with high temp RTV and let it cure for 4 days (its very cold here).
After adding the oil back in and getting the car to temp and running it for 20+ minutes, it seems completely dry with no signs of leaking.
$30 in sealants beats $5-6k for a patch that will hold as long as need be, until a "big" issue demands the engine being dropped and opened up. If and when that time comes, all of this stuff can be easily removed.
Thanks for the input and help!
solving the leak at the case was not easy as even with the oil drained from the case, the oil in that area could not be removed and it would stay wet.
I tried wiping it down and covering it with Hylomar, but that was a joke, didnt work at all.
i ended up putting a temporary patch over it using fibers from gauze and super glue to mix with the oil in between the two sealed parts of the case where the gasket was protruding and leaking. I then set it up quick with flame. It was pretty low-brow, but bought me the time i needed to seal the area with high temp RTV and let it cure for 4 days (its very cold here).
After adding the oil back in and getting the car to temp and running it for 20+ minutes, it seems completely dry with no signs of leaking.
$30 in sealants beats $5-6k for a patch that will hold as long as need be, until a "big" issue demands the engine being dropped and opened up. If and when that time comes, all of this stuff can be easily removed.
Thanks for the input and help!