Failed my first oil change
#16
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Sorry it took me so long to get a response posted. I had some difficulties with my computer (or the Rennlist website) last night, and couldn't get on line.
I went to Walmart to get some Mobil 1 5W40, but the only bottles they had in that weight were 1 gallon bottles that said "specially formulated for your turbo diesel truck." I didn't know if there was REALLY a difference or not, so I passed on it. They had 0W40, so I took the only 4 bottles that they had, and went over to Autozone and returned the 15W40 RP and bought another 6 bottles of the 0W40. (Which was really unfortunate, since Walmart's price on the oil was $1.87 less.)
Autozone had Rhino car ramps for only 29.95, so I bought those rather than get wood to make some ramps. They had 6 inches of lift and were lighter and cheaper than the 2 x 12's would have been.
Now that I knew where everything was under the car, I was ready to proceed. I got the sockets, etc. Backed the car up on the ramps, and went to work. I had heard that the Turbo came with magnetic drain plugs, but it was obvious that my car doesn't have them.
Does someone know the size of the drain plugs so that I can order a set from Dimple? Dimple Magnet Drain Plug There's a very impressive video on it grabbing iron filings in an oil bath. Oil Bath Video
I had a dozen or so drips of various sizes, but all in all, it went without incident, now that I knew where the filter was - dumb newbie!! It probably took me an hour and a half to get this done, which was ridiculous. It's really just a half hour job, but with the fuse and the filter, and the drips - Oh well, the life of a DIY.
BTW, any comments on the oil filter? I had a Mahle filter on hand. If you look on Pelican, the Mahle filters are half the price of the Porsche filters.
Thanks again.
larry
Thanks for your help.
I went to Walmart to get some Mobil 1 5W40, but the only bottles they had in that weight were 1 gallon bottles that said "specially formulated for your turbo diesel truck." I didn't know if there was REALLY a difference or not, so I passed on it. They had 0W40, so I took the only 4 bottles that they had, and went over to Autozone and returned the 15W40 RP and bought another 6 bottles of the 0W40. (Which was really unfortunate, since Walmart's price on the oil was $1.87 less.)
Autozone had Rhino car ramps for only 29.95, so I bought those rather than get wood to make some ramps. They had 6 inches of lift and were lighter and cheaper than the 2 x 12's would have been.
Now that I knew where everything was under the car, I was ready to proceed. I got the sockets, etc. Backed the car up on the ramps, and went to work. I had heard that the Turbo came with magnetic drain plugs, but it was obvious that my car doesn't have them.
Does someone know the size of the drain plugs so that I can order a set from Dimple? Dimple Magnet Drain Plug There's a very impressive video on it grabbing iron filings in an oil bath. Oil Bath Video
I had a dozen or so drips of various sizes, but all in all, it went without incident, now that I knew where the filter was - dumb newbie!! It probably took me an hour and a half to get this done, which was ridiculous. It's really just a half hour job, but with the fuse and the filter, and the drips - Oh well, the life of a DIY.
BTW, any comments on the oil filter? I had a Mahle filter on hand. If you look on Pelican, the Mahle filters are half the price of the Porsche filters.
Thanks again.
larry
Thanks for your help.
#17
Nordschleife Master
I can't help but laugh out loud as it reminds me so much of my first DIY oil change. Good work tackling it yourslef!
I used Rhino Ramps as well before I had a lift installed. They work great.
Good call on the 0W-40. Next change though I would definitely move to 5W-40 or 5W-40 but the 0W-40 is just fine until then and MUCH better than the 15W oil. I would start looking now to get your stock built up. I usually keep enough oil for 2-3 oil changes on hand at all times. As far as the filter, I will use the factory filter and pay the whopping $15 as I do NOT see the benefit to saving a few bucks to go with an aftermarket filter. I order my filters by the half dozen so I always have a good stock on hand. Make sure you get all 4 crush washers (2 for turbos, 1 for case, 1 for tank).
I don't see the upside for getting a magnetic oil drain plug. I did however change mine from the standard aluminum (?) drain plug to the upgraded steel drain plug. All you have to do is strip (which is easy to do) the soft aluminum one and you'll wish you upgraded to the steel version.
I knew you must be doing just fine since I never saw the Batphone ring
I used Rhino Ramps as well before I had a lift installed. They work great.
Good call on the 0W-40. Next change though I would definitely move to 5W-40 or 5W-40 but the 0W-40 is just fine until then and MUCH better than the 15W oil. I would start looking now to get your stock built up. I usually keep enough oil for 2-3 oil changes on hand at all times. As far as the filter, I will use the factory filter and pay the whopping $15 as I do NOT see the benefit to saving a few bucks to go with an aftermarket filter. I order my filters by the half dozen so I always have a good stock on hand. Make sure you get all 4 crush washers (2 for turbos, 1 for case, 1 for tank).
I don't see the upside for getting a magnetic oil drain plug. I did however change mine from the standard aluminum (?) drain plug to the upgraded steel drain plug. All you have to do is strip (which is easy to do) the soft aluminum one and you'll wish you upgraded to the steel version.
I knew you must be doing just fine since I never saw the Batphone ring
#20
Three Wheelin'
Be sure to look between the pleats on your oil filter, inside and outside. (Cut it from top to bottom with scissors and fan out to look at the inside).
Look for any large bits stuck between them, especially shiny ones. If you find any - take a good closeup, high res picture and post it here.
Don't worry about the "Diesel" oil...if you look at the certifications - you will see it is certified for Gasoline engines as well.
Look for any large bits stuck between them, especially shiny ones. If you find any - take a good closeup, high res picture and post it here.
Don't worry about the "Diesel" oil...if you look at the certifications - you will see it is certified for Gasoline engines as well.
#21
Race Director
Sincerely,
Macster.
#22
Race Director
Scott Slauson in this month's Porsche Panorama mag's Tech Q & A section writes "the oils with claimed higher ZDDP levels are not recommended at they are a mix of standard and synthetic."
Also, read what Bruce Anderson in May's issue of Excellence has to say about oils for modern Porsches.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#23
Burning Brakes
Same deal as your N rated tires Macster. Let's not turn this into another oil debate. Before you know it Dock will be here sporting his 15k mile oil change interval.
#24
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Paul, Macster has "cut and paste" his response two times this week. I will take the added metal conditioners. Mobil didn't PAY Porsche to certify the 5W40. The engines aren't in warranty so who cares. If you or I am paying the engine repair bill, then I will use the double ester oil with the added zinc and phosphorous. The above mentioned oils aren't blended!
BTW, the other Porsche Panorama Tech > Chris Powell mandates the Shell oil in all of his customers!!
BTW, the other Porsche Panorama Tech > Chris Powell mandates the Shell oil in all of his customers!!
#28
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Just finished reading the Tech notes from the May issue. So, if Group 5 oils have less friction, and also less detergents, why doesn't Porsche recommend only Group 5 oils. According to Bruce, Mobil 1 is a Group 4 oil. Using a Group 4 oil, according to him - if I read it right - will cause greater wear in the engine. Just more of this engine oil technobabble that only an engineer can truly understand.
Oh well. That's prolly why I will always remain a newbie.
larry
Oh well. That's prolly why I will always remain a newbie.
larry
#29
Burning Brakes
Paul, Macster has "cut and paste" his response two times this week. I will take the added metal conditioners. Mobil didn't PAY Porsche to certify the 5W40. The engines aren't in warranty so who cares. If you or I am paying the engine repair bill, then I will use the double ester oil with the added zinc and phosphorous. The above mentioned oils aren't blended!
BTW, the other Porsche Panorama Tech > Chris Powell mandates the Shell oil in all of his customers!!
BTW, the other Porsche Panorama Tech > Chris Powell mandates the Shell oil in all of his customers!!
BTW- Delvac 1 went into this motor, it will be interesting to see what the condition is in 2,500 miles. Bet it doesn't smell burned.
#30
Race Director
Paul, Macster has "cut and paste" his response two times this week. I will take the added metal conditioners. Mobil didn't PAY Porsche to certify the 5W40. The engines aren't in warranty so who cares. If you or I am paying the engine repair bill, then I will use the double ester oil with the added zinc and phosphorous. The above mentioned oils aren't blended!
BTW, the other Porsche Panorama Tech > Chris Powell mandates the Shell oil in all of his customers!!
BTW, the other Porsche Panorama Tech > Chris Powell mandates the Shell oil in all of his customers!!
Besides I was unable to confirm the Mobil TDT oil is a double ester oil or any ester oil. All I could find out about its contents was that it has 20 to 30% PAO in it and some ZDDP (<2.5%). The remaining 6 of its ingredients are a trade secret. And if the oil is so good, why dump a load of ZDDP in the oil? Reminds me of the saying: If you have to add an oil additive to the oil you're using you're using the wrong oil.
Sincerely,
Macster