Why you want to CHECK your oil filter
#62
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cannon, I wouldn't add anything to 0W40 because I'm not using it. The 5W40 TDT doesn't seem to need any. However, with regards to ZDDP Plus, I haven't used it. I have used other products on new engines.
Cannon, I have received your PM.. Email me and I can forward you the information.
Cannon, I have received your PM.. Email me and I can forward you the information.
#63
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No H2O, on the watercooled GT1 engines the oil filter is just a element. When you remove it you can "see" the metal or debris in between the pleats of the element. It is a 3 minute exercise.
Lewis, my recommendations are to monitor the filter. As the noise starts to increase the metal will become very apparent.
The noise with a failing IMS and chains is a heavy metalic rattle that will get louder. This leaves out most of "us" You will know it when you hear the rattle.
Lewis, my recommendations are to monitor the filter. As the noise starts to increase the metal will become very apparent.
The noise with a failing IMS and chains is a heavy metalic rattle that will get louder. This leaves out most of "us" You will know it when you hear the rattle.
#64
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If I wanted to send an audio file to get an opinion on my engine noise, what would be the best way to go about recording it so that one could listen for things? I hear some rattles when things just start, but after the car is warm, it's a glorious purr with the occasional rattle. Still, I'd like some opinions.
#65
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If I wanted to send an audio file to get an opinion on my engine noise, what would be the best way to go about recording it so that one could listen for things? I hear some rattles when things just start, but after the car is warm, it's a glorious purr with the occasional rattle. Still, I'd like some opinions.
#66
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If I wanted to send an audio file to get an opinion on my engine noise, what would be the best way to go about recording it so that one could listen for things? I hear some rattles when things just start, but after the car is warm, it's a glorious purr with the occasional rattle. Still, I'd like some opinions.
Place camera equal distance from each side, and rear of the car at least. Locate the camera at the same relative location on each side. Symetry is very desirable so we can hear the noise under as near identical conditions from all vantage points.
Lastly, if you think the noise serious or even have a suspicion it is serious you're better off letting a qualified tech listen to the engine. Save whatever running needs to be done for the experts in order they can make a professional diagnosis.
Even if one of us here guesses accurately, if the noise a sign of serious engine trouble a tech's going to want to make his own diagnosis.
And if the noise is a sign of serious trouble almost always the engine only has a limited amount of running time left before the seriousness can quickly advance to the stage the engine's in a terminal condition.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#67
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"The actual IMS "gear" was loosening due to bolts that had backed out....this is a extreme and rare case."
#68
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Dock, I could tell you the sky is blue and you would argue the shade... No thanks. ![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)
Mike
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Mike
#69
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Well Mike, the sky really isn't blue it is clear and colorless, but the dust in the sky refracts the light from the sun and makes it appear blue. So... :-)
#72
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If you believe your 996 Turbo is generating the noise that can be due to loose or backing oil pump bolts -- which IIRC is what this thread starting with -- stop listening to the engine and get the car flat bedded to a qualified shop for proper and professional diagnosis.
If (if) the noise is due to loose oil pump bolts the cost of the repair is almost certainly way under what it would cost you should you continue to drive the car, even just run the engine to record the noise.
Happy New Year!
Sincerely,
Macster.
#73
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To what noise are you referring to?
If you believe your 996 Turbo is generating the noise that can be due to loose or backing oil pump bolts -- which IIRC is what this thread starting with -- stop listening to the engine and get the car flat bedded to a qualified shop for proper and professional diagnosis.
If (if) the noise is due to loose oil pump bolts the cost of the repair is almost certainly way under what it would cost you should you continue to drive the car, even just run the engine to record the noise.
Happy New Year!
Sincerely,
Macster.
If you believe your 996 Turbo is generating the noise that can be due to loose or backing oil pump bolts -- which IIRC is what this thread starting with -- stop listening to the engine and get the car flat bedded to a qualified shop for proper and professional diagnosis.
If (if) the noise is due to loose oil pump bolts the cost of the repair is almost certainly way under what it would cost you should you continue to drive the car, even just run the engine to record the noise.
Happy New Year!
Sincerely,
Macster.
I do not have a 996TT yet, but am (was..?) having plans of getting one soon.
I was just wondering what have to be done to fix the problem permanently and how much it would cost to fix the engine if/when I hear this metalic rattle, and find metal bits in my oil filter..
Total rebuild?
Thanks.
Last edited by 964-C2; 01-02-2011 at 06:44 PM.
#74
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Just to be clear- nearly all GT1 block cars (Turbo, GT3, GT2) have a pretty audible rattle from the chain/gears. Some are worse than others- switching to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck quieted mine down significantly. It's the combination of the noise getting worse AND metal in your oil filter that you need to be concerned about.
And yes, a rebuild would be necessary- to at least repair (or replace with a 959) the IMS and associated bearings.
I'll let the expert Kevin elaborate from there.
And yes, a rebuild would be necessary- to at least repair (or replace with a 959) the IMS and associated bearings.
I'll let the expert Kevin elaborate from there.