Driving and maintenance practices for TT cars over 200k miles...
10-16-2010, 11:38 AM
#31
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Slightly off-topic - what does one bar represent on dash-board measuring stick? In other words, I'm down one bar since change at 45,000 miles - now have 46,600 - time to add a quart/?
10-16-2010, 01:59 PM
#32
Hey all,
I think I may be "that guy" who was referenced in the first post in this topic.
I currently have 279,000+ miles on a 2003 996 Turbo X50 - it is bone stock except for Bailey's DV's and 997 Turbo front brake ducts. It has always been maintained in stock condition.
The clutch - lets see - at 173,000 miles the engine needed to be dropped to trouble shoot a short in one of the wiring harnesses to a coil pack - luckily it was an easy fix. While it was down we pulled the tranny off and looked at the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Clutch at that point was in great shape - no stess cracks are the spring retainer plates, the pressure plate also showed no signs of cracks or stress. The flywheel also was perfect. We replaced two bearings and the RMS while it was out. The tech mic'd the clutch at that point and called to tell me it was 1.6mm (or 1.7mm) and a factory mic's at 1.7mm (or 1.8mm). He offered me the option to replace it if I wanted. I decided to put it back in and see what it was really made of. Since then there has been no need to look again.
So now to my driving - I have a long commute to work currently - 95+ miles each way - I have had a similar and longer commutes for a long time - some can make an argument about the time spent in the car but for me it works as I have a great car to drive. 15 minutes after I leave and 15 minutes before I come home there is a long section of highway that is heavily monitored with radar and has a speed limit of 50 MPH - anything over 60 and you are getting a ticket - period. Laser is used and used frequently. That part of my daily commute I think has aided in my higher mileage car - easy warm up and gentle cool down. Now comes the fun part - the balance of my commute can be spirited 90+ runs on the highway with some nice twisty curves and / or stop and go traffic for 1 hour plus periods - there is nothing worse for a car (IMO) than that type of driving - if the clutch were to go that would certainly do it. I am not the type of driver who hard launches from a dead stop but once first is engaged and your rolling hang on. I do downshift and do rev match when doing so and occasionally will rev match on an upshift - ie from 3rd to 5th for instance.
Oil changes - I religiously change the oil every 5000 miles with 0W-40 Mobil 1. I do keep an eye on the posts about oil viscosity to see what the concensus is but have not yet changed from 0W-40.
I bought the car with 292 miles on the ticker so almost all the miles are mine - I have tracked the car as many as 12-15 sessions per year to as few as one. It all depends on what home and work life have in store.
This is one data point of many out there and is certainly not the norm so take it as that - one persons experience. I bought the car to drive it and it sees nice summer to crappy show and sleet every year.
As one other piece of data - my wife drives a 2004 Cayenne Turbo - it just passed the 200,000 mile mark - never touched the internals or the turbo's and that thing takes a beating.
Both cars are religiously maintained and oil is changed at a higher frequency than recommended.
I am happy and lucky to have the cars we have to drive and with regular driving and maintenance they should last a long long time.
T2 - who continues to knock on wood!!
PS - this is the point in the commercial where the man starts talking really fast about the T's and C's right......
The engine internals are all original as well as the turbo's. When the engine came out at 173,000 miles we also cleaned out the secondary air ports as they were pretty well carboned up and causing a CEL on secondary air. Other than that the engine has remained solid.
I think I may be "that guy" who was referenced in the first post in this topic.
I currently have 279,000+ miles on a 2003 996 Turbo X50 - it is bone stock except for Bailey's DV's and 997 Turbo front brake ducts. It has always been maintained in stock condition.
The clutch - lets see - at 173,000 miles the engine needed to be dropped to trouble shoot a short in one of the wiring harnesses to a coil pack - luckily it was an easy fix. While it was down we pulled the tranny off and looked at the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Clutch at that point was in great shape - no stess cracks are the spring retainer plates, the pressure plate also showed no signs of cracks or stress. The flywheel also was perfect. We replaced two bearings and the RMS while it was out. The tech mic'd the clutch at that point and called to tell me it was 1.6mm (or 1.7mm) and a factory mic's at 1.7mm (or 1.8mm). He offered me the option to replace it if I wanted. I decided to put it back in and see what it was really made of. Since then there has been no need to look again.
So now to my driving - I have a long commute to work currently - 95+ miles each way - I have had a similar and longer commutes for a long time - some can make an argument about the time spent in the car but for me it works as I have a great car to drive. 15 minutes after I leave and 15 minutes before I come home there is a long section of highway that is heavily monitored with radar and has a speed limit of 50 MPH - anything over 60 and you are getting a ticket - period. Laser is used and used frequently. That part of my daily commute I think has aided in my higher mileage car - easy warm up and gentle cool down. Now comes the fun part - the balance of my commute can be spirited 90+ runs on the highway with some nice twisty curves and / or stop and go traffic for 1 hour plus periods - there is nothing worse for a car (IMO) than that type of driving - if the clutch were to go that would certainly do it. I am not the type of driver who hard launches from a dead stop but once first is engaged and your rolling hang on. I do downshift and do rev match when doing so and occasionally will rev match on an upshift - ie from 3rd to 5th for instance.
Oil changes - I religiously change the oil every 5000 miles with 0W-40 Mobil 1. I do keep an eye on the posts about oil viscosity to see what the concensus is but have not yet changed from 0W-40.
I bought the car with 292 miles on the ticker so almost all the miles are mine - I have tracked the car as many as 12-15 sessions per year to as few as one. It all depends on what home and work life have in store.
This is one data point of many out there and is certainly not the norm so take it as that - one persons experience. I bought the car to drive it and it sees nice summer to crappy show and sleet every year.
As one other piece of data - my wife drives a 2004 Cayenne Turbo - it just passed the 200,000 mile mark - never touched the internals or the turbo's and that thing takes a beating.
Both cars are religiously maintained and oil is changed at a higher frequency than recommended.
I am happy and lucky to have the cars we have to drive and with regular driving and maintenance they should last a long long time.
T2 - who continues to knock on wood!!
PS - this is the point in the commercial where the man starts talking really fast about the T's and C's right......
The engine internals are all original as well as the turbo's. When the engine came out at 173,000 miles we also cleaned out the secondary air ports as they were pretty well carboned up and causing a CEL on secondary air. Other than that the engine has remained solid.
10-16-2010, 03:30 PM
#33
10-16-2010, 04:15 PM
#34
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T2, you are my hero!
I hope to be able to enjoy mine for as long and as trouble free as you have.
Anytime I get nervous about the reliability of my turbo, I think about T2 knocking wood!
35,000 smiles and counting.
I hope to be able to enjoy mine for as long and as trouble free as you have.
Anytime I get nervous about the reliability of my turbo, I think about T2 knocking wood!
35,000 smiles and counting.
10-16-2010, 07:42 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
Anyone know if there's a major difference between the Mobil 1 Diesel that comes in quart size, and Mobil 1 Delvac?
10-16-2010, 11:38 PM
#36
This thread is a couple of years old, but may answer your question: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1207851
/m
Mobil Delvac 5w40 and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck used to be identical (or nearly so) when they were both CI-4+. Now both are CJ-4 but the specs are different.
Having said that, either one will work in a HDEO environment, and both are safe to use with the newest emissions controls. The TDT may be cheaper if you're buying by the gallon, while the Delvac 1 might save money if you're buying it by the drum.
NAPA, CarQuest, and many other chains can order M1 TDT for next-day delivery if they don't have it in stock. Don't ask for TDT, just ask for "Mobil 5w40".
Having said that, either one will work in a HDEO environment, and both are safe to use with the newest emissions controls. The TDT may be cheaper if you're buying by the gallon, while the Delvac 1 might save money if you're buying it by the drum.
NAPA, CarQuest, and many other chains can order M1 TDT for next-day delivery if they don't have it in stock. Don't ask for TDT, just ask for "Mobil 5w40".
10-17-2010, 03:40 AM
#37
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Paul don't confuse Mobil Delvac 1300 15W40 with the synthetic Mobil 1 products. Two different products. I do NOT recommend the Delvac 1300 as a suitable oil for our engines!
10-17-2010, 12:54 PM
#39
Burning Brakes
Also, thoughts on Shell Rotella T, which is also a 5w40?
10-17-2010, 01:53 PM
#41
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Paul, Shell Rotella T is a Dino oil, not synthetic. Delvac 1 is not a current production oil formulation. It looks like it has been renamed M1 Turbo Diesel Truck.
10-17-2010, 02:25 PM
#42
Burning Brakes
Kevin- if you could source Delvac 1, would you use it over the M1 Turbo?
http://store.avlube.com/fonfacsizcol.html
I can't seem to find specs on the Delvac 1.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
http://store.avlube.com/fonfacsizcol.html
I can't seem to find specs on the Delvac 1.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
10-17-2010, 03:58 PM
#44
Burning Brakes
I'm running M1 5w50 per your recommendation!
If I can get a better wear protection pack out of a diesel oil- I might swing that way.
