By the way, a quote from this website that sells Mobil 1 Delvac online-

http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store...0w-40.html#624

"Question:
Can Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 be used in a Gasoline Engine?
I have read on the Internet that Mobil Delvac 1 oils may provide better performance in high-performance passenger-car engines than regular Mobil 1, since they meet CF-4 specs. What about using Delvac in gasoline engines, especially high-performance engines? -- "Tribological", Richmond, VA

Answer:
Mobil 1 formulas will deliver everything you need for your gasoline engine. In fact, during development, tests are run in both gasoline and diesel engines to demonstrate the outstanding performance of Mobil 1. Mobil Delvac 1 ESP, which is designed for heavy-duty diesels, meets most diesel engine oil specifications, and also meets API SM certification. And because Mobil Delvac 1 ESP operates in a different environment – diesel engines run longer, generate soot and run hotter, it contains different types and amounts of additives than Mobil 1. Even so, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP still meets API SM certification for gasoline engines, and because of its high performance, we would expect it to do a good job of protecting your gasoline engine."

For those of you nervous about running a diesel oil in a gasoline car...

 

For those that want to change there oil frequently...

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ing_0W-50.aspx

I am going to give this a try in one of my project engines.

From the Mobil tech site. 1850 ppm of zinc!

I've been using Mobil 1 15W-50 in my race car. How are these new oils better/different?

Mobil 1 15W-50 is a higher viscosity oil that delivers a thick oil film for protection of high performance engines. While Mobil 1 15W-50 can be used and is recommended for both street and track use, the new Mobil 1 Racing oils are not recommended for general street use where vehicles use catalytic exhaust converters. Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30 and Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50 are lower viscosity oils designed to protect the engine under high output conditions in high operating temperatures. Additionally, Mobil 1 Racing Oils offer boosted levels of anti-wear protection (nominal zinc level of 1850 ppm) for extra engine protection in highly loaded flat tappet engine designs like those used in the NASCAR Sprint Cup series.

 

I don't yet see a reason that the racing 0w-50 oil would require more frequent changes...

 

I'm going to guess it has less stabilizers... dunno for sure.

 

Sorry, but the above does not give me the warm fuzzies regarding using a diesel engine oil in a gasoline engine, at least Mobil 1 Delvac oil.

"meets most diesel engine oil specifications" suggests that at least for some diesel engines the oil is not as superior as another type of diesel engine oil, perhaps some other brand of diesel engine oil. This in itself suggests that if one wants to run a diesel engine oil there are better diesel engine oils to be had.

Diesel engines do not run hotter than gasoline engines, they run cooler than gasoline engines.

Diesel engines do generate a lot of soot, much more than a gasoline engine. Because of this, naturally the diesel oil is specfically designed to deal with this and one result is the diesel oil's detergency level is likely higher than a gasoline engine's oil (and modern oils are a pretty high detergent level already to avoid sludge build up from long intervals between changes so many modern oil makers tout). A high detergent diesel engine oil in a gasoline engine which generally runs at higher rpms and can reach substantially higher max rpms (1000 or more rpms over the max. obtained by diesel engines) could lead to excessive aeration of the oil. Porsche engine designers might have put in an extra margin of oil de-aeration capacity into its engines' oiling system, but why press one's luck?

The additive package is specifically targeted towards diesel engines. Are we to assume then that compression ignition engines and spark igntion engines have the same additive requirements? Then why are there two different classifications of oils: Compression ignition? Spark ignition? They are different enough to be classified for one type of engine or the other, but now we are to believe that they are interchangeable, interchangeable in that apparently one can run a diesel oil in his gasoline engine.

I can understand the desire to run a high quality oil in these engines. We all want to preserve the integrity of these very fine engines for as long as possible. While most diesel engine oils are high quality I still do not accept that a diesel engine oil is the better oil over a high quality gasoline engine oil.

The diesel engine oil is probably "good enough" which is what the statements in the "answer" above suggest, but I note the responder was clear to avoid saying the diesel oil would do a 'better' job of protecting one's gasoline engine.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

Why guess that though? I don't think there is any
indication anywhere of that, or a reason, really.
I bet it's perfectly fine, if not better than their 0W-40.

 

Answer: Mobil Reply>>
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck is an outstanding oil that can be used in gasoline passenger cars since it carries API SM credentials, so we would not have any concerns about performance. Diesel engine oils generally contain higher levels of detergents, dispersants, and antiwear additives, but keep in mind that higher levels of the ZDDP antiwear additive can be detrimental to catalytic converters and other emission control equipment over time, which is why this additive has been reduced in ILSAC GF-4 oils. Also you will not see optimum fuel economy benefits with diesel type oil.

Guys the EPA has (2 years ago) put the restriction with the zinc ZDDP wear additives. The cat concern did NOT exist when our cars were built. I feel that our cats will fail from the crappy west coast fuel vs higher ZDDP.

 

What is the drain interval with Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50?

Oil drain intervals in racing conditions can vary widely. Depending on specific racing applications and conditions, intervals of 500 miles or more are attainable. When determining the correct interval at these extreme conditions, used oil quality should be monitored as each application and environment can be different.

Detergent levels are lower vs retail/street oils.

 

I "have" heard rumors of guys in very warm places running the M3's oil....I think it is 10W-60 Castrol....much better than the standard Castrol junk.

Anyone ?


JB

(I am happy with 5w-40 or 50..M1)

 

I wish I made videos of my car's "rattle" before and after the M1 Turbo Diesel oil was filled. I have a feeling you'd be sold.

Oh, wait- it isn't Porsche approved- so you would't run it...

I'm just posting my experience, and Kevin has endorsed it (I think he knows these cars better than any of us). I don't sell diesel oil, so it's your choice.

 

I have to disclose that I received a $20 bill in the mail from Paul today

It's posts like this that knock the wind out of your sails>> https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...ode-p1325.html

If it is a camshaft vario-cam "it" is oil related. Clean oil is a requirement to prevent these failures. I hope that it's just a sensor.

But like I mentioned in a previous thread, changing the oil more frequent and around 5K miles will extend the life of these engines.

 

Synthetic oils do NOT break down in 5K miles...changing them too frequently is a plus for those selling oil, but too often is no plus for our engines. I refer to Doug Hillary's discussion of too frequent oil changes might actually be detrimental.

 

Bill a 5000 mile interval for a driven turbocharged car isn't too frequent. I have never heard of engine damage due to frequent oil changes. You have to remember the oil-cooled turbochargers on our engines coupled with the large chains and multiple gears do add to oil shear and heat/thermal breakdown. When someone shuts down there engine. It is not common to see 700 degrees and higher at the turbine wheel. This heat transfers into the oil cooled bearing housing.

 

Whoa, wait a sec.........Changing our oil too frequently is detrimental? That's news to me and one I just can't comprehend. Granted I'm not an oil expert but that sounds about as believable as the oil company's selling us "used" oil for those of us that change it too frequently

 

The basic oil isn't what breaks down (first). The concern is for the protective additives,
such as the anti-acidity chemicals which neutralize the corrosive by-products of suboptimal
combustion, such as at cold startup. This additive content is measured/reported and the
oil's TB (total base) content. Over time and acid influx, these base (in the chemical sense)
additives diminish, leaving the salts and water that result from acids and bases combining.
Perhaps the water is evaporated away, and perhaps the salts are caught by the filter, but
at the very least, eventually you might run the risk of circulating corrosive acids after the
additives run out.
So if you spend your driving time in long hauls, your engine spends almost no time in
the worst (cold start) state, and long oil change intervals are safer. If you lots of little trips
that don't ever get the motor and oil hot, you want to change often, and better yet, ensure
your motor gets to full operating temp for 15 minutes or more, at least to boil off the
water. I've heard of folks who don't use their car much, but just get in and start it up once
a week. That is the worst: Wait a week to ensure everywhere that oil can drain from has
done so, do a cold dry startup so the valvetrain spends as much time dry as possible,
produce the acids, produce and circulate the accumulating water, repeat. Oh, and they
also use a 'good thick oil to improve the pressure and protect things', which really just
ensures that the delicate parts run dry longer at startup till that thick stuff finally gets
warm (and therefore thin) enough to flow well into all the crannies.
Joe