993GT

Hey James, I'm not sure how tight 'hand tight' is, but if you have bottomed out the plastic 'cap' against the metal housing and then tightened another 1/4-1/3 turn, that's not good(and I would recommend replacing the plastic cap sooner than later, not a bad thing to replace with age anyway)... basically just need to let the cap bottom-out then put about a wrists-worth of torque on it (factory spec is 19ft-lbs.)
On any car, I personally screw the cap on by hand until the o-ring becomes engaged against the metal, providing light resistance, then use the tool/rachet until I feel it 'mechanically' stop/bottom out, lightly torque.
Cheers,

zblake

Dude, a 3/8" torque wrench costs about $20 from harbor freight. You'll need to torque the oil tank and engine pan drains too....

rmc1148

I guess I've had more experience then more because of age lol but I never have a problem knowing when to quite tightening on aluminum plastic etc..

James88

Thanks Rob,
Didn't bottom out, there is still a fair bit of gap between plastic cap and metal housing.

Kevin

James, something doesn't sound right with your cap. When you remove the cap did the center alignment rod stay attached? I would pull/remove the cap and inspect the filter. Do a dry fit. Remove all the orings and oil filter element.

James88

Yes center alignment rod was attached, the gap between the plastic 'cap' against the metal housing is only about 3 to 4mm in metric measurement.

993GT

Sounds like you tightened it until you 'hit' the o-ring and then tightened it 1/4turn more...simple as tightening it more, it is normal for you to feel some rubbery resistance as you turn it more(the o-ring gently turning/compressing), you will feel the cap clearly stop when it bottoms out(ie. as soon as that gap is closed). Torque to 19 ft-lbs and you are good to go.

James88

So there shouldn't be a gap is that right, I was a bit worried of over tightening.

993GT

Correct, not over tightening.
Note picture...

James88

Got it !!!
After seeing your photo I have tightened it further with tool which was quite easy until it stopped turning and then gave it tad more, here is my pic. Thanks heaps Rob.

993GT

Glad you got it all fixed up!

Kevinmacd

You use channels locks on it. Looks like it has some teeth marks on it. You can get the tool at auto zone.

rmc1148

I bought the oe wrench for filter= a little pricy but nice piece of mind.

James88

Some interesting reading regarding oil...

http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/


"• Thicker oil DOES NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of dozens and dozens of motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. For example, some 5W20 oils have proven to provide OUTSTANDING wear protection, while some 15W50 oils have only been able to provide MODEST wear protection. So, do not run thicker oil under the false assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines.

• BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.

540 RAT
U.S. Patent Holder
Member SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers)"

993GT

So everyone is aware when buying an aftermarket oil filter cap wrench, it is a 76mm/14flute design