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Switched to the Mobil 5W-50 today

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Old 10-23-2013, 03:51 AM
  #211  
James88
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Originally Posted by SimonK
No from me. 30 turns to water when engine gets really hot.
Simon
Any proof in your comment that 30 turns to water when engine gets really hot.
Old 10-23-2013, 04:34 AM
  #212  
Kevin
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Simon has a point.. All oils will sheer to a lower weight. The vaned pumps and chains are really tough on oils. The 30 weight turns to a lower weight as you put the miles on.
Old 10-23-2013, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Simon has a point.. All oils will sheer to a lower weight. The vaned pumps and chains are really tough on oils. The 30 weight turns to a lower weight as you put the miles on.
Thanks for stepping in Kevin, appreciate your advice.
Old 10-23-2013, 12:54 PM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by James88
Simon Any proof in your comment that 30 turns to water when engine gets really hot.
I didn't mean water literally. ;-). But I've seen 30 weight and 60 weight oil side by side in a testing lab and I can tell you it's like looking at a glass of lemonade versus jar of honey (just illustrating the point). 30 weight for F1 engine is probably great but for our engines I would stay way clear of it. I just wouldn't trust it at high temps for prolonged mileage.

The way I see it:

Manufacturing recommendation is the best compromise.

For hotter climate 5/50 is best compromise as far as us users are concerned.

Track duty, hot climate, really pushing at max performance, 10/60.

Brands? I think all top brands are equally good. Frequent changes will do more than top brand choice.

Just my 2 cents.
Old 10-23-2013, 01:09 PM
  #215  
Kevinmacd
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Just keep in mind that a 0W-40 has a base viscosity of 0 and additives bring it to 40. So as your additives deplete so does your viscosity.
Old 10-23-2013, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevinmacd
Just keep in mind that a 0W-40 has a base viscosity of 0 and additives bring it to 40. So as your additives deplete so does your viscosity.
True.
Old 10-23-2013, 01:24 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
in my... gti lol. i'd stay with 0/40 or 5/40. my uneducated take is its ok to mess around with brands? moreso than viscosity.
I wouldn't use 5w30 in my GTI, Rotella T6. Heck, I wouldn't think of using 0w40 in the GTI either.
Old 10-24-2013, 01:11 AM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by Kevin
Simon has a point.. All oils will sheer to a lower weight. The vaned pumps and chains are really tough on oils. The 30 weight turns to a lower weight as you put the miles on.
Hi Kevin,

I am going to purchase Mobil 1 5w-50, drain plugs and oil filter. Summer is approaching and it does get quite hot here in Melbourne.

Can you tell me how much oil is needed on refill.

Is it really necessary to empty oil from the Turbo's as I read that you can easily strip the threads.

James
Old 10-24-2013, 06:08 PM
  #219  
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I don't know how your oil is packaged.. You will need 7.5 to 7.8 quarts. If you let the oil drain over night you could need 9 quarts (the hydraulics will shed oil and migrate out of the engine)..

If you don't want to remove the turbo drain plugs, don't.. If they haven't been removed, you might not be able to remove them..

I like to pour in 5 or 6 quarts and then turn the engine over (remove the fuel pump fuse).. Watch the oil pressure building and then pour in a total of 7.5 quarts.. Turn the engine over and build oil pressure >> put the fuse in and then start. This is just a optional method.. Use as one wishes.

Last edited by Kevin; 10-25-2013 at 01:06 AM.
Old 10-24-2013, 10:54 PM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by Kevin
I don't know how your oil is packaged.. You will need 7.5 to 7.8 quarts. If you let the oil drain over night you could need 9 quarts (the hydraulics will shed oil and migrate out of the engine)..

If you don't want to remove the turbo drain plugs, don't.. If they haven't been removed, you might not be able to remove them..

I like to pour in 5 or 6 quarts and then turn the engine over (remove the fuel pump fuse).. Watch the oil pressure building and then pour in a total of 7.5 quarts.. Turn the engine over and build oil pressure >> put the fuse in and then start. This is just a optional method.. Use as your one wishes.
Thanks Kevin,
I will follow your advice.
Old 10-25-2013, 07:34 AM
  #221  
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I have read on a previous oil change thread that the oil tank drain plug needs to be removed "OPPOSITE to the removal of the drain plug" does this mean clockwise direction to remove ?
Or do you turn anti clock wise to remove all of them as you would normally to all bolts and nuts ?

"2. Remove the oil tank drain plug. This requires the 27mm wrench and 19mm socket. Use the 27mm wrench to apply force OPPOSITE to the removal of the drain plug"

this is the thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...-diy-pics.html

Last edited by James88; 10-25-2013 at 08:37 AM.
Old 10-25-2013, 10:29 AM
  #222  
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the 'support'-nut welded on the tank needs to be held stable, do not try to turn it but only use a wrench to provide negative force against the torque required to remove the drain plug....for the tank, a good way(if plug isn't 'seized'/over tightened) to ensure equal forces is to use your hand to squeeze the wrenchs together rather than 2 separate arm movements...hope that makes sense!
drainplugs for crankcase, tank, etc. are all conventional thread, counter-clockwise to remove
Old 10-25-2013, 04:30 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by 993GT
the 'support'-nut welded on the tank needs to be held stable, do not try to turn it but only use a wrench to provide negative force against the torque required to remove the drain plug....for the tank, a good way(if plug isn't 'seized'/over tightened) to ensure equal forces is to use your hand to squeeze the wrenchs together rather than 2 separate arm movements...hope that makes sense!
drainplugs for crankcase, tank, etc. are all conventional thread, counter-clockwise to remove
Got it, thank you.
I will be doing it tomorrow.
Old 10-26-2013, 07:50 AM
  #224  
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Well I'm half way there, this is where l'm at so far.

- warmed up engine
- removed fuel pump fuse
- cranked it over and burnt remainder of fuel
- removed oil filter with non genuine tool which was a bit tricky but got it off
- removed both oil plugs
- leaving over night for remainder of oil to drip out as Kevin suggested

- Don't have a torque wrench so I am going to try without, just maybe tighten reasonably firm.
- In the morning placing new washes, filter and in M1 5w-50.
- Crank it over without fuse to get the oil pressure up and then I'm done.

This is my first personal oil change on a Porsche and find it quite satisfying that l know it will be done properly.

Couldn't have done it properly without everyone's help from this great forum , so thanks heaps... really appreciated.
Old 10-27-2013, 06:51 AM
  #225  
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Don't have a torque wrench so I tightened filter casing as hard as I could by hand and then turned it a further 1/4 to 1/3 with tool, hope this is OK.

Can some one tell me if this is not advisable.


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