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Old 08-10-2006, 07:10 PM
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kwickr
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Please, some help and guidance here. I apparently have a set of warped rotors on the front of my 2003 RTurbo. Dealer here wants to replace rotors, pads (which are Paget and not worn according to mechanic) front and rear as well as various and assundry parts involved with this job so I will have a "matched" set. Now maybe it would get me a one year warranty, but he seemed hesitant about that too. Now this car has had enough mods that the warranty remaining (short) is all but useless so I would rather do whats smart than whats Porsche if that makes sense. Is there a better way to go than dealer for brakes? What and where? Probably never track car but like to enjoy time spent in it pushing some....and having it stop! I know I don't post but I read lots, and maybe when I feel informed enough to jump in and not sound dumb I will. Thanks for any help
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Old 08-10-2006, 07:38 PM
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1AS
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How was the diagnosis established? Could you just have deposits on the rotors, and need a bunch of hard stops to get them off?
If only the fronts are warped, I would buy only the fronts. AS
Old 08-11-2006, 01:55 PM
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kwickr
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The mechanic drove the car, and it shakes very badly under heavy braking (and it does!) Stock rotors best? Thanks
Old 08-11-2006, 05:11 PM
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KPG
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For the money, OEM rotors cannot be beat. I have a spare set on the shelf that I got from Sunset for about 125$ each Front and about 105$ each rear. I am sure there are better rotors but not at this price point. Kevin
Old 08-11-2006, 05:22 PM
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Greg Fishman
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Probably uneven pad deposits. See if you can find some Hawk Blue pads to run for a while and it may remove the deposits. Rotors rarely warp. Do a search and you will see that this has cured many "warping" issues and that Pagids are noted for leaving deposits, etc.
Old 08-11-2006, 05:38 PM
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No problem with Pagids leaving deposits if bed in properly. My Oranges have great feel and no vibration. Louder than heck, though. Kevin
Old 08-11-2006, 09:20 PM
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kwickr
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Perhaps they were not bed in properly, the car had low low mileage on purchase and a car fax showed long periods of time with very little driving. Wayne at Ruf said to get them hot and use them to reduce noise, which seemed to have worked pretty well, now when you say hard stops to reduce deposits, how hard?
Old 08-11-2006, 10:45 PM
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the proper way to check them is with a dial indicator mesaureing the lateral runout, porsches spec if i remebr right is .010 diffrence around the rotor, well thats gonna condem 99% of used rotors. Warped porsche rotors are very rare (maybe not on heavly tracked cars) But i dont see more then a few a year and most likely its from blatent abuse, Porsche brakes are probaly the best desinged componet on the car. if your looking for other options there are some out there I know ive instaleld steel blank rotors for customers
Old 08-12-2006, 01:46 AM
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Since you can't hold the car with the brake while you drive in 2nd or 3rd gear (which is a simpler way of really getting them hot), the stops need to be from high speeds and repetitive. Not necessary to come to a halt. I haven't had the problem on my tt, but have on other cars. AS
Old 08-12-2006, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by KPG
For the money, OEM rotors cannot be beat. I have a spare set on the shelf that I got from Sunset for about 125$ each Front and about 105$ each rear. I am sure there are better rotors but not at this price point. Kevin
125 each on turboos?? you sure?
it's like 400/ea on my GT3
Old 08-12-2006, 09:17 AM
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first, you mentioned you don't track your car. the pls run stock pads. they are MORE than enough for street use, even if you are 10x faster than schumacher. pagid are noisy and are abusive to the rotors compared to oem.

rotors do not wrap and certainly not for street use or canyon driving. NO ONE can wraps rotors driving a car on street. i thikn you have poor pad material transfer, one day of hard use (like track driving) will fix the prob. however, if the dealer says your rotors are warped, then they should covedr those under warrarnty. then since it's free, i would take the new rotors.

buy oem rotors. all others are crap. brembo, ap are better than oem, but you will never reap the benefit unless you do 30+ track days a year.
Old 08-12-2006, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mooty
125 each on turboos?? you sure?
it's like 400/ea on my GT3
Mooty, I was off by a little bit ... sorry. Here are the correct numbers right off the Sunset invoice: Brake Disk 996-351-409-02 190.93 list Net 135.92
Brake Disk 996-351-410-02 190.63 list Net 135.92
Brake Disk 996-352-405-00 173.37 list Net 123.61
Brake Disc 996-352-406-00 173.37 list Net 123.61

So a little over 500$... still seems like a resonable price to me. Why are GT3 rotors so expensive, they are just a little bigger right? Kevin
Old 08-12-2006, 03:10 PM
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if you have a GT3 you can get repalcement rotors from PMNA for much less than the stealers.
Old 08-12-2006, 03:12 PM
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for a turbo with such low mileage and hardly driven, I doubt the rotors are warped. Porsche rotors are pretty hard to distort. Possible but unlikey. Takes just a couple minutes to check the run-out w/ a dial indicator.
Old 08-12-2006, 08:04 PM
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wow, turbo rotors are DIRT CHEAP. that's great.
GT3 rotors from stealers are rought 1000/pair (front)
GT3 cup car rotors (interchangeable with street GT3's) are about 550-600/pair front. still way more than TT.

i dont know why they cost so much more than TT rotors.


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