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After 650 miles of my new to me 2002 turbo, now with 33500 miles, I have noticed a noise which I'm sure is the throw-out bearing as I had the same symptoms on my previous Porsche, push the clutch in/ no noise/ release and the noise is there, in anticipation of drooping the box, I like to know which clutch combinations your guys with 500hp+ are using, according the paperwork in 2008 with around 10K miles, someone installed a EVOMS Stage 3 Clutch & Single Mass Steel LWFW, GT2 Master/Slave Conversion Kit, then in 2015 a Sachs Performance Disc was installed with around 23K miles. Of course I won't know until we open her up but I'm doing my homework to save time, best case I can replace the throw-out bearing and re-install a new Sachs Disc as it drives very nice, rear seal was already done but I will check, worst case I need the entire new set up. Looks like the previous discs are lasting 7 years or 10k miles or so.
Any suggestions of your set up will be appreciated.
I don’t think so, she was fine for those 600+ miles then the noise started.
Your initial post indicates that based upon some paperwork that suggests you do have a LWFW but then you say you don't believe you do. So that's going to make advice difficult.
That said, I would strongly suggest that no matter what you decide if and when you open up your gearbox do not replace a T-out bearing alone, but replace all the best matching components.
"according the paperwork in 2008 with around 10K miles, someone installed a EVOMS Stage 3 Clutch & Single Mass Steel LWFW, GT2 Master/Slave Conversion Kit, then in 2015 a Sachs Performance Disc was installed with around 23K miles."
First of all there was no need to have that work done, but let's assume that the owner of a 10k mile car decided to open it up and replace all those unused parts with new "performance" parts that handle more power and tq that does not explain why then 13k additional miles later ( now 23k miles? ) another Sachs disc was needed. This all reads like mixed and possibly incorrect info.
At the power level you are running all that you "need" would be a Sachs 098 clutch disc paired with a 764 pressure plate. I'm not sure that those are the parts that work best with a LWFW that you believe you have, but I believe they are. Others can correct this info, if it is not correct. My point would simply be to replace any and all connected parts, friction discs and all, and once and for all. A clutch should last you - assuming no deliberate and regular abuse - between 50 and 75+ miles. I once had a Sachs clutch in a Porsche Turbo last me 90K miles without slippage. So YMMV.
Again, if you're opening it up anyway to diagnose this "noise"? Replace the entire clutch would be my advice. You don't want to do it all twice. Trust that, and Good Luck.
I just checked, sure enough only when hot, what are you thinking? On the gears department that the oil is thin?
It's your LWFW. 996TT engines have more LWFW chatter than GT3 or Cup engines due to their harmonics. It's really noticeable when the gear oil is fully warmed up. If you have your A/C on, it's also more noticeable.
I have the OEM 4.0 GT3RS LWFW clutch set up in my 7.2GT3 and it's not audible when then gearbox is cold but you can hear it when the gear oil is hot. It's not bothersome and a character of the car. The OEM LWFW set up is not bad with regards to chatter, some of the aftermarket ones are a lot worse.
Last edited by powdrhound; 10-23-2023 at 06:33 PM.
Your initial post indicates that based upon some paperwork that suggests you do have a LWFW but then you say you don't believe you do. So that's going to make advice difficult.
That said, I would strongly suggest that no matter what you decide if and when you open up your gearbox do not replace a T-out bearing alone, but replace all the best matching components.
"according the paperwork in 2008 with around 10K miles, someone installed a EVOMS Stage 3 Clutch & Single Mass Steel LWFW, GT2 Master/Slave Conversion Kit, then in 2015 a Sachs Performance Disc was installed with around 23K miles."
First of all there was no need to have that work done, but let's assume that the owner of a 10k mile car decided to open it up and replace all those unused parts with new "performance" parts that handle more power and tq that does not explain why then 13k additional miles later ( now 23k miles? ) another Sachs disc was needed. This all reads like mixed and possibly incorrect info.
At the power level you are running all that you "need" would be a Sachs 098 clutch disc paired with a 764 pressure plate. I'm not sure that those are the parts that work best with a LWFW that you believe you have, but I believe they are. Others can correct this info, if it is not correct. My point would simply be to replace any and all connected parts, friction discs and all, and once and for all. A clutch should last you - assuming no deliberate and regular abuse - between 50 and 75+ miles. I once had a Sachs clutch in a Porsche Turbo last me 90K miles without slippage. So YMMV.
Again, if you're opening it up anyway to diagnose this "noise"? Replace the entire clutch would be my advice. You don't want to do it all twice. Trust that, and Good Luck.
thank you. My bad. You are correct. The paperwork states LWFW , I was referring that I haven't heard the noise. I think I'm going to change the oil and re check, now that the temperature was mentioned. For sure, I will share my findings.
thank you. My bad. You are correct. The paperwork states LWFW , I was referring that I haven't heard the noise. I think I'm going to change the oil and re check, now that the temperature was mentioned. For sure, I will share my findings.
You're welcome and good luck with it. Fresh 75/90 never hurts!
No thanks necessary. We've all been down this road, only happy to try and help if I could.
Another question occurred to me to ask and that is, your initial post mentions "noise" only? and I wondered if you have found any inconsistency in the clutch action at the pedal, or while driving. Is the pedal ever feeling as if there is more "play" at the top upon release or when engaging? You mention that a GT2 conversion has been done, has that ever caused any issues to you since you got the car. Or is it still and has the clutch always been consistent in its action? Clutching ( sorry ) at straws here, but the more info you can describe, the more others with more experience might be able to add suggestions.
I am fairly certain a bad/failing T-out is going to at some point interfere with clutch "action", is why I ask.
No thanks necessary. We've all been down this road, only happy to try and help if I could.
Another question occurred to me to ask and that is, your initial post mentions "noise" only? and I wondered if you have found any inconsistency in the clutch action at the pedal, or while driving. Is the pedal ever feeling as if there is more "play" at the top upon release or when engaging? You mention that a GT2 conversion has been done, has that ever caused any issues to you since you got the car. Or is it still and has the clutch always been consistent in its action? Clutching ( sorry ) at straws here, but the more info you can describe, the more others with more experience might be able to add suggestions.
I am fairly certain a bad/failing T-out is going to at some point interfere with clutch "action", is why I ask.
Clutch pedal travel, feels good, gear engagement feels good. I took the wife for spin and she was the one that mentioned some type of noise, honestly, I didn't pay much attention but then I drove in an underground garage and it was then I noticed the noise at idle , I started to look for the noise and noticed that when pushing the Clutch pedal the noise stopped, I immediately thought of the throw out bearing since it sounded familiar to my previous porsche, when it was mentioned here cold or warm, it hit me like a brick, both times hot engine, I started her cold turkey and sure enough no noise, so that rules out the throw out bearing for sure, that thing will make noise regardless. I'll have my good friend and mechanic Eddie Bello come by and together we will look further into. No having to remove this box could be a nice early Christmas present lol
Clutch pedal travel, feels good, gear engagement feels good. I took the wife for spin and she was the one that mentioned some type of noise, honestly, I didn't pay much attention but then I drove in an underground garage and it was then I noticed the noise at idle , I started to look for the noise and noticed that when pushing the Clutch pedal the noise stopped, I immediately thought of the throw out bearing since it sounded familiar to my previous porsche, when it was mentioned here cold or warm, it hit me like a brick, both times hot engine, I started her cold turkey and sure enough no noise, so that rules out the throw out bearing for sure, that thing will make noise regardless. I'll have my good friend and mechanic Eddie Bello come by and together we will look further into. No having to remove this box could be a nice early Christmas present lol
Reading thaat you also note that you've had 911's before, I suspect you'd "know" but it's possible that as noted by others upthread, it might well simply be that you are getting used to the quirky differences in the LWFW v the stock and far quieter DMFW. I've heard some fairly off putting LWFW "chatter" before, and can easily imagine someone with little experience with them, believing that the rattle at idle, although mitigated once the clutch is engaged could be signalling an issue with internal clutch parts. So, if it's not affecting the drivebaility of the car. I'll wish you an early Happy X'mas and hope that you indeed, have nothing major to worry about. Clutch work that involves either dropping the box or either dropping the entire motor ( some techs don't want to fiddle with re-installing the clutch fork so they drop the whole motor ) is never cheap, if you are not able to DIY it. So again, Good Luck and for now. Don't worry about it and your Bello friend will surely put eyes and ears on it. So you're good!
10-22-2023 | 02:38 PM
Clutch Dept Qs
