New owner - 2004 GT3 engine out to-do's
#1
New owner - 2004 GT3 engine out to-do's
Will be preparing my 10K mile GT3 for DE use, so engine will be out for pinning coolant hoses. Would like to make sure to attend to anything that needs doing on that front while all is accessible.
- RMS - is there a consensus on the best seal version to be using here?
- Replace fuel filter - check
- Replace plugs - check
- Inspect all rubber hoses and seals - check
What else?
On a car with this low miles what else should be done/looked at as a matter of course.Will verify clutch, but based on prior use, don't expect much wear. On that basis, would plan to leave the clutch and LWFW for another day...
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Cheers
Matt
- RMS - is there a consensus on the best seal version to be using here?
- Replace fuel filter - check
- Replace plugs - check
- Inspect all rubber hoses and seals - check
What else?
On a car with this low miles what else should be done/looked at as a matter of course.Will verify clutch, but based on prior use, don't expect much wear. On that basis, would plan to leave the clutch and LWFW for another day...
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Cheers
Matt
#2
Matt
The OEM LSD is crap and needs upgrading to a Guard.
Do the 4.0 LWFW/clutch and front crank pulley, you won't regret it.
Semisolid engine mts
I'm assuming you r doing the rear toelinks/locking plates and dog bones.
I'll stop there...for now :-)
D
The OEM LSD is crap and needs upgrading to a Guard.
Do the 4.0 LWFW/clutch and front crank pulley, you won't regret it.
Semisolid engine mts
I'm assuming you r doing the rear toelinks/locking plates and dog bones.
I'll stop there...for now :-)
D
#3
The 3.6 engines are fairly reliable compared to the 3.8's.
If you are going to do the RMS then do the FMS I see those leaking a lot more now a days as well. Easy to do with the coolant weld/pin.
I prefer the 3.6RS flywheel due to crank harmonic issues with the 3.8/4.0 one because it is machines to remove a lot more weight from it.
-LSD upgrade a must
-I prefer to do a 4.0 R&P while in there as well.
If you are going to do the RMS then do the FMS I see those leaking a lot more now a days as well. Easy to do with the coolant weld/pin.
I prefer the 3.6RS flywheel due to crank harmonic issues with the 3.8/4.0 one because it is machines to remove a lot more weight from it.
-LSD upgrade a must
-I prefer to do a 4.0 R&P while in there as well.
#4
The above suggestions are good, only thing I would add is you can have the "shop" that works on your GT3 - simply call Guard to buy the Guard internal guts vs buying a whole new LSD. If you did, shop will have to take trans apart to reset the pinion and ring specs....no worries if you have a budget for it.
#5
Thanks guys - yup, I have reached out to Guard for the plates to install in the stock housing. For an initial rebuild of a low miles diff, no reason the stock housing is not up to the task.
Re. the LWFW - I was not aware of issues with the 4.0 kit. I am not clear from the post above whether it's too light or not light enough - but will do some reading before ordering anything. Again, that's probably going to be for a later date...
Cheers
Matt
Re. the LWFW - I was not aware of issues with the 4.0 kit. I am not clear from the post above whether it's too light or not light enough - but will do some reading before ordering anything. Again, that's probably going to be for a later date...
Cheers
Matt
#6
I've had one in my car for over 4 years without issue. Old technology is good sometimes :-)
#7
GT3 player par excellence
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water pump
lwfw
lsd
bump adj rear toe links with locking plate
engine mount
pm me for more if u dare.
and wheels, and LOTS of tires then drive drive drive
lwfw
lsd
bump adj rear toe links with locking plate
engine mount
pm me for more if u dare.
and wheels, and LOTS of tires then drive drive drive
Trending Topics
#8
Hi All,
WRT to LSD - buy the Guard unit - the OEM housing has a limited life under heavy use, and as the say 'Failure is no an option'.
Focusing on just the motor / tranny - LSD, RMS, FMS, LWFW and you are good to go. Not certain just how unreliable the water pump is, but, if needed I can replace mine with motor in place.
Replace all fluids. I prefer a water / water wetter mix for DE use, better heat exchange.
Take the front nose off the car and make sure radiators are all free of debris...
Then there is everything else :-)
Ray
WRT to LSD - buy the Guard unit - the OEM housing has a limited life under heavy use, and as the say 'Failure is no an option'.
Focusing on just the motor / tranny - LSD, RMS, FMS, LWFW and you are good to go. Not certain just how unreliable the water pump is, but, if needed I can replace mine with motor in place.
Replace all fluids. I prefer a water / water wetter mix for DE use, better heat exchange.
Take the front nose off the car and make sure radiators are all free of debris...
Then there is everything else :-)
Ray
#9
Everyone touched base on the obvious things you would do. One thing that was missed in the Porsche Motorsport RSR Crank Case Breather. This can only be accessed while the engine is out and the part it cheap so now is the time to do it.
You mentioned spark plugs, you definitely want to inspect the ignition coils and replace if needed (please feel free to ignore this comment if you lumped plugs and coils together as one unit).
A set of Porsche Motorsport shifter cables, this can be done at a later date but its easier when engine and transmission are out.
If you plan on making this a DE car only and will not be driving on the street anymore remove the A/C compressor and lines going to the front condensers. You can wait till you have a reason to remove the front bumper to pull the condensers.
You might want to update the coolant bottle as they are prone to cracking.
Anytime you pull an engine for some DE prep in these cars it becomes a slippery slope, I could go on if you would like to hear more.
Good luck on the build.
You mentioned spark plugs, you definitely want to inspect the ignition coils and replace if needed (please feel free to ignore this comment if you lumped plugs and coils together as one unit).
A set of Porsche Motorsport shifter cables, this can be done at a later date but its easier when engine and transmission are out.
If you plan on making this a DE car only and will not be driving on the street anymore remove the A/C compressor and lines going to the front condensers. You can wait till you have a reason to remove the front bumper to pull the condensers.
You might want to update the coolant bottle as they are prone to cracking.
Anytime you pull an engine for some DE prep in these cars it becomes a slippery slope, I could go on if you would like to hear more.
Good luck on the build.
#10
Thanks again everyone for being so generous with the advice. I am getting up to speed quickly. And poorer too!
BBS Motorsports just picked my pocket this afternoon....
Will look into the RSR Crank Case Breather - was not aware of this.
Best regards,
Matt
BBS Motorsports just picked my pocket this afternoon....
Will look into the RSR Crank Case Breather - was not aware of this.
Best regards,
Matt
#11
Correct me if I'm wrong but with respect to the rs crankcase breather you also have to order the specific fms seal from the 6rs as well. I think the breather gives u an extra verifiable 5 hp on the dyno with it installed. Mike
#12
You can read about it here. I decided against the breather as until just a couple of months ago my RMS has always been dry.
Now that I'm going in to fix the RMS I may consider the breather again.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...-breather.html
#13
Replace coolant expansion tank and cap
Full inspection of motor and consider just replacing any Orings clamps and hoses now
Inspect chassis and time out uprights control arms hubs bearings if heavy track use
Drive belt
Full inspection of motor and consider just replacing any Orings clamps and hoses now
Inspect chassis and time out uprights control arms hubs bearings if heavy track use
Drive belt
#14
We have not run into any issues with leakage after installing this breather. Although every time we have installed this breather we have also updated the front and rear main seal to the most up to date 997 part number.
#15
Are you doing this yourself or hiring it done? I pulled the engine/transmission on my 964 but have been nervous about the GT3 given it's such a high-precision, tight-tolerance machine that I don't know if I am confident in putting it back in perfectly straight. In any event, definitely do the plugs and ignition coils. My friend replaced mine for me after bringing the car home because it was getting misfires and the coils were the obvious culprit. It sounded like pulling the engine would have been less of a headache than replacing the plugs and coils in the car.