Rennline wheel studs, any good?
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
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Thanks all. Apex wouldn't tell me what version fits my application! Maybe they've had problems advising customers. Anyway, I ordered the rennline ones. I only do DEs, so I don't need the "top shelf" models.
#33
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Take a look; I have it all broken out, and Bill even chimed in. (link) Although I am not running the Rennline "Performance" stud flavor; Dell is, on his TT.
These (mine, the "Race" studs) absolutely work for our application
The 'Rennline ones' come from Bildon (Apex) I believe.
Apex
![](http://www.race-studs.com/media/00/a20792b12c7161b72c4564_m.jpg)
![](http://www.race-studs.com/media/00/a20792b12c7161d5e76b0e_m.jpg)
Rennline
These (mine, the "Race" studs) absolutely work for our application
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Apex
![](http://www.race-studs.com/media/00/a20792b12c7161b72c4564_m.jpg)
![](http://www.race-studs.com/media/00/a20792b12c7161d5e76b0e_m.jpg)
Rennline
![](http://www.rennline.com/images/ball_studkit.jpg)
#34
Nordschleife Master
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If your application is the GT3 (or any modern Porsche) you want the 14x1.5 and the ball-seat nuts (not conical).
#35
Rennlist Member
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I picked up these ones from Apex (track variant, not street):
![](http://www.race-studs.com/media/00/a20792b12c7161bf7db6d6_m.JPG)
What I like about these is the short unthreaded bit on the end. Helps to locate the nut to reduce the chance of cross-threading if you try to hurry things along. Not as speed-friendly as the bullet-nosed studs, but is a good compromise for me.
What I like about these is the short unthreaded bit on the end. Helps to locate the nut to reduce the chance of cross-threading if you try to hurry things along. Not as speed-friendly as the bullet-nosed studs, but is a good compromise for me.
#36
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Going to order a set of Rennline studs. You guys are using Conical for stock wheels, correct?
I started using studs with my S4 when things got difficult when changing the wheels. I had my wheels, floating rotors and spacers to try and line up. Needless to say it is such a PITA i will never go without studs again.
I started using studs with my S4 when things got difficult when changing the wheels. I had my wheels, floating rotors and spacers to try and line up. Needless to say it is such a PITA i will never go without studs again.
#38
![Lightbulb](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon3.gif)
^+1
link
link
Scott, first of all thank you for your purchase.
I wanted to post a better link to installation instructions for those who are looking to do a stud/nut conversion.
There is a PDF linked here also if you want to print out some instructions.
http://www.apexcompetition.com/Produ...ud_install.cfm
A couple of other notes about out products.. we have 3 new designs coming out very soon specifically for Boxster, Cayman and GT3 etc. These 3 should cover most wheel / spacer / car combos.
![](http://www.apexcompetition.com/ProductInfo/images/DSC_0564.jpg)
Also, please make sure that you never use an acid based based wheel cleaner on our products! This stuff is caustic (obviously) and while it does a good job at removing caked on brake dust, it also attacks coated steel quite well. We've used "Simple Green" (like many of you) on our street 996 which has a set of both our performance studs up front and our "race" studs in back... and it's going on 3 years now with no significant corrosion.
Lastly, an important safety note. Many other retailers are selling "ball seat" Nuts for Porsche. But what does this mean? Ask them if they are R12, R13 or R14 radius nuts, you'll most likely draw a blank stare. M14x1.5 VW/Audi nuts are commonly sold as "ball seat" nuts for Porsche.... yet they will NOT seat properly on an OE Porsche wheel !
See this photo.
![](http://www.apexcompetition.com/ProductInfo/images/M13_Radius.jpg)
Notice the tiny band where it contacted the wheel seat? This was the only area of the nut that was contacting the wheel because VW/Audi nuts use a different radius. So don't bolt on those Mercedes, Honda or VW/Audi ball seat wheel nuts when what you need are PORSCHE specific wheel nuts!
OK well I have hijacked enough of your thread Scott. Apologies for that!![surrender](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/surrender.gif)
PS - Beautiful car BTW.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
There is a PDF linked here also if you want to print out some instructions.
http://www.apexcompetition.com/Produ...ud_install.cfm
A couple of other notes about out products.. we have 3 new designs coming out very soon specifically for Boxster, Cayman and GT3 etc. These 3 should cover most wheel / spacer / car combos.
![](http://www.apexcompetition.com/ProductInfo/images/DSC_0564.jpg)
Also, please make sure that you never use an acid based based wheel cleaner on our products! This stuff is caustic (obviously) and while it does a good job at removing caked on brake dust, it also attacks coated steel quite well. We've used "Simple Green" (like many of you) on our street 996 which has a set of both our performance studs up front and our "race" studs in back... and it's going on 3 years now with no significant corrosion.
Lastly, an important safety note. Many other retailers are selling "ball seat" Nuts for Porsche. But what does this mean? Ask them if they are R12, R13 or R14 radius nuts, you'll most likely draw a blank stare. M14x1.5 VW/Audi nuts are commonly sold as "ball seat" nuts for Porsche.... yet they will NOT seat properly on an OE Porsche wheel !
See this photo.
![](http://www.apexcompetition.com/ProductInfo/images/M13_Radius.jpg)
Notice the tiny band where it contacted the wheel seat? This was the only area of the nut that was contacting the wheel because VW/Audi nuts use a different radius. So don't bolt on those Mercedes, Honda or VW/Audi ball seat wheel nuts when what you need are PORSCHE specific wheel nuts!
OK well I have hijacked enough of your thread Scott. Apologies for that!
![surrender](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/surrender.gif)
PS - Beautiful car BTW.
#40
Pro
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Why? Because there are many more variables than at first glance and folks were not getting us all the info.
Wheel types vary (even amongst supposedly similar factory wheels 996 mk1 vs 996 mk2 GT3 wheels for example). The mounting faces of different wheels vary dramatically in thickness. People's preferences vary as well. Some want lots of stud showing, some want the nut right at the end. Brake rotor hat thickness differs if you have aftermarket, or race disks. Wheels spacers, nuff said there.
So yes we stopped giving advice and instead have put the onus on our customers to measure (gasp!)
![evilgrin](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/evilgrin.gif)
I've been away from Rennlist all winter... driving the e46 330i ZHP 'beater' as the Porsche slept. However spring is here, and so am I. If you have questions... I'll try to answer them.
Later I'll post a simple way to determine what length you need using one of your old wheel bolts as a guide.
PS - If you do want to speak with a human about your choices PM me and ask for a dealer who is able to give phone support. I'm just the engineer, we're not good with people
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#41
Pro
#43
Pro
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Last edited by Apex996; 04-14-2011 at 08:50 PM. Reason: update
#44
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Bill, I sent Apex an e-mail this afternoon to make sure I had picked the proper "stuff".
- Is the diff between Race and Pro studs simply the length of the bullet/tip? (i.e. same material?)
- Per the link you posted, if stock bolts are 60mm long proper stud would be the 65mm one. Any problem/benefit going to 80mm instead? Seems to me that the 80 would be better and allow for more wheels down the road, no?
Thanks,
Francois
- Is the diff between Race and Pro studs simply the length of the bullet/tip? (i.e. same material?)
- Per the link you posted, if stock bolts are 60mm long proper stud would be the 65mm one. Any problem/benefit going to 80mm instead? Seems to me that the 80 would be better and allow for more wheels down the road, no?
Thanks,
Francois
#45
Pro
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Regarding your email, you reference OEM & OZ wheels. Very different wheel designs on those. You really need to work through the component dimensions and determine what is needed.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Recently did a 997.1 GT3 with both OEM & CCW14's. The OEM wheels "wanted" M14.Pro.80s while the CCW "wanted" Pro 70s. However he had removed the rear spacer, added a front spacer, etc etc ... it's never obvious until you start measuring and trying one out. In fact that is the best way to know for sure. Get 1 stud..test it on both front & rear. Then you can get a set which you know will work.
You are most welcome.
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)