Rennline wheel studs, any good?
#16
Nordschleife Master
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Will do!
BTW....here are the bolt weights.
Stock bolt 3.30 ounces (93.55g)
Stock bolt for use with 5mm spacer kit 3.45 ounces (97.8g)
Rennline stud and nut 3.80 ounces of which 2.60 is the stud (107.7g/73.7g)
BTW....here are the bolt weights.
Stock bolt 3.30 ounces (93.55g)
Stock bolt for use with 5mm spacer kit 3.45 ounces (97.8g)
Rennline stud and nut 3.80 ounces of which 2.60 is the stud (107.7g/73.7g)
#18
Nordschleife Master
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Crap! Just got back from the liquor store and they don't have it. Just that entry level Russian Standard. No platinum
And that's really my only place to get it since the liquor stores are state run agencies.
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
And that's really my only place to get it since the liquor stores are state run agencies.
#20
GT3 player par excellence
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#21
Burning Brakes
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This is for stock 996 GT3 wheels.
I don't want to pollute this forum with another "which studs" to get but search has not been helpful enough...
I read BBS does not not work. Neither does CDOC. H&R has been reported to work. Okay, but which ones? I have no clue about thread/pitch/length. And safety first, I want good ones.
Anyone tried the Rennline ones? I'm making an order from them anyway.
Thanks.
I don't want to pollute this forum with another "which studs" to get but search has not been helpful enough...
I read BBS does not not work. Neither does CDOC. H&R has been reported to work. Okay, but which ones? I have no clue about thread/pitch/length. And safety first, I want good ones.
Anyone tried the Rennline ones? I'm making an order from them anyway.
Thanks.
#24
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For DE types what is the point of studs?
I am missing something here and it can't be the 1/2 oz weight savings....is it?
If it is....you guys are sicker than I ever thought :-)
I have never had enough trouble changing wheels that I felt the need to go to studs.
Enlighten me please.
I am missing something here and it can't be the 1/2 oz weight savings....is it?
If it is....you guys are sicker than I ever thought :-)
I have never had enough trouble changing wheels that I felt the need to go to studs.
Enlighten me please.
#25
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#26
Nordschleife Master
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What Allan says. I do enough wheel changes and brake pad and fluid changes that makes it SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to dismount and mount the wheels without ever having to worry about rotor/wheel contact. Get tiring unbolting 2 lugs bolts, screwing in two wheel hangers, do the rest, and then reverse and redo for each wheel.
#27
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Okay, I understand. I don't use wheel hangers though and do a pretty good number of wheel changes too.
I find if I squat in front of the wheel and brace the base of it with a toe I can spin all the lugs off with a gun and then just pull off the wheel.
Same deal to put it back on.
I guess I can see where it would be a little easier with studs but I have never bothered whith wheel hangers and not had any issues.
Thanks for the info. You guys now have me thinking....
I find if I squat in front of the wheel and brace the base of it with a toe I can spin all the lugs off with a gun and then just pull off the wheel.
Same deal to put it back on.
I guess I can see where it would be a little easier with studs but I have never bothered whith wheel hangers and not had any issues.
Thanks for the info. You guys now have me thinking....
#28
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+ you needn't worry about cross threading the bolt and damaging the wheel carrier (almost poka-yoke)
+ new wheels with different offsets don't require longer or shorter bolts
+ new wheels with different offsets don't require longer or shorter bolts
#29
Nordschleife Master
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Strip a stud? $5 replacement. Strip the threads in the wheel carrier? $$$.
All various wheels (and spacers) work with no need to change bolts. Again, $$$.
Plus, all it takes is the wheel to fall off once and bang the inside of you wheel, chip a PCCB, damage the caliper, etc, etc, etc., and you quickly realize it's very nice to have the studs.