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Need some set up input/info/suggestions

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Old 10-07-2010 | 07:13 PM
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That's driving to/fro the track which I assume u are doing. Even if it doesn't cord the grip level really tapers off after 6 trackdays ie 6 times 4 sessions= 24 hc's maybe 2 more hc's before they are useless gripwise. What sucks u can't flip mpsc's. Are toyo's ne other rcomps
Flippable? Mike
Old 10-08-2010 | 02:06 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by va122
John, He's not changing the shocks. He doesn't need the monoballs yet. He should spend the 5k on track time or LSD and stuff.
oh, he's not doing shox. then yes, track time, lsd and lots of tire/pads.
Old 10-08-2010 | 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Fooshe
My question was more of what tire make and model do you find works best with this car and what size combination.

I have heard the RA1 245/40/18 with 305/35/18 is good, but the tires need to be shaved to work. Joe likes the NT01 with the 245/40/18 front and 315/30/18 rear. Earlier, the Yoko A08 was mentioned.

Just trying to get a feel for what the experience has been.
sorry yoko A08 is not even good enough for my john deere. pos tire. forget it.
R888 is a close second. excellent for land fill, if u want my opinion.

RA1 and NT01 are very similar, or smae.
NT01 has better size. i would take 315 rear. not optimal but 315 will fit on 11" oem whee.s i run 12" in the back.

if you drive the car on street at all, NT-01 is a no brainer

some folks like MPSC. i dont. and they cost more than NT01, also not as durable.
Old 10-08-2010 | 12:00 PM
  #34  
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Steve,

How many sets of rims to you have?

If one, go with an R compound you can drive to and from the track.

If two sets of rims, leave street tires on one and r comp on the other. Do every AX LAbmwcca has at Calspeedway and SDBMWCCA has at Qualcomm. Toss the car around and spin it a couple times to see where the limits are. These are the only venues you can do it without it biting you in the butt.

Don't go to Buttonwillow, Willow Springs etc and expect to be fast with this car. When I moved to from the E46 M3 to the GT3, I was slower and it frutstrated the hell out of me. I would say it took 9-10 months of AX and track to get comfortable with the car. Remember, the driving dynamics on how to rotate a rear engine car is different than the cars you've been used to driving.

Once you get used to the lump being behind the rear axle, you get a feel for how to use it to your advantage and actually steer the car from the back, like a rudder on a boat rather than turning the wheel.

TIRES

With RA1 at full tread you can drive to and from tracks. Now that we're into the fall and heading into winter, rain is a possibility, that is piece of mind.

Nittos are great to, but they're a little more shallow and the tread blocks are bigger, which is good for traction, but less so if it rains.

R888 - Had a set and they were just awful. Might as well have had a street tire as they cycled out way before the tread was gone. With RA1 and Nittos, they get faster the closer you get to the cords.

MPSC - Good tire for the first handful of heat cycles, but they too cycle out before the tread on the tires is gone. HORRIBLE in the cold. IF you plan on driving at Willow or anywhere else in SOcal where it gets pretty cold in the winter months, forget about it. They take forever to get up to temperature and once they cycle out, you need a 107 degree day at Willow to have them revolcanized (sp?). Too much money too.

Yokos Street tire - Heat cycle out too quickly.

As you can see, I'm a big fan of tires that are useable down to the cords. When you spend this much money on tires, you need to be able to justify the cost and throwing out tires that still have tread on them makes my stomach turn.

Down the line

Once you've had a year or so in the car (depending on how many events you attend) and want to step up to faster tires, I recommend the Kumho V710 over the Hoosiers. Hoosiers are a little more expensive and a few 10ths faster, but out cycle with a larger drop off in traction. The V710s are more consistant and last longer with a much more gradual decline in traction as they get used.

Hope that helps!
Old 10-08-2010 | 12:16 PM
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^^Pete's got some great advise. I met him at a 2 track time trial series at Streets and big Willow and he is not only fast (with a dead stock car I might add), but right on the money about his advise about these tires. I've picked up mucho time with his recommendations and instruction.
Old 10-09-2010 | 06:44 PM
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Petes great! I learned a lot from him too
Old 10-09-2010 | 10:58 PM
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^ are u gonna try the kuhmos? Listen to Pete : ). Mike
Old 10-10-2010 | 01:41 AM
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Yea, next set! I have a new set of nittos to get through. So next month or so. I heard they're backordered till Thanksgiving anyway.
Old 10-10-2010 | 01:47 AM
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Maybe I'll grab a set of V710 next year and give them another shot....
Old 10-10-2010 | 02:05 AM
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Hey Mike, A couple questions on the V710s
PSI h/c
round or square?
Flip after what 15HC's?
Old 10-16-2010 | 06:17 PM
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Ok, so the new shoes have been on for one day. Went with the NT01's and the 245 fronts with 315's in the rear like everyone says. Got a set brand new and out the door for $900.

So they have been on the car about 26 hours and then it happened. I went through a dip in the road that was not too bad, but caused some heavy compression and the rears rubbed so bad that there are some huge chunks that were taken out of the rear two tires. Bad enough that they will need to be replaced. 315's fit just fine....really.....

Last edited by Fooshe; 10-17-2010 at 03:35 AM. Reason: spelling correction
Old 10-16-2010 | 07:06 PM
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where did you get them for 900???
Old 10-16-2010 | 07:39 PM
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If u running stock sizes it's 245 square and 305 square. Square is the new design. But if u got bigger rears like 12 inch 315 round and 245 square( not bad for our cars with round back and square front- with square u can add more camber which our fronts need more camber then rear). Hot pressures- don't go higher then 34 or they will slide. I do 31 hot all around. Cold pressures depending on outside temps I usually go 24 on hot days and 28 on cold days then adjust from there. Don't go below 30 hot if it ain't stripped like mootys 6. I flip after 15-16 hc's and rotate depending on track if go to one track that's cw and another track that's ccw I don't rotate but same track I do rotate. Hope that helps ya. Mike
Old 10-16-2010 | 07:57 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Fooshe
Ok, so the new shoes have been on for one day. Went with the NT01's and the 245 fronts with 315's in the rear like everyone says. Got a set brand new and out the door for $900.

So they have been on the car about 26 hours and then it happened. I went through a dip in the raod that was not too bad, but caused some heavy compression and the rears rubbed so bad that there are some huge chunks that were taken out of the rear two tires. Bad enough that they will need to be replaced. 315's fit just fine....really.....
How big are the chunks? Is it to the cords? Do u feel it while driving it happened? If not to cords u can use them for autox. Ne pics of the chunks? Mike
Old 10-16-2010 | 08:18 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Fooshe
Ok, so the new shoes have been on for one day. Went with the NT01's and the 245 fronts with 315's in the rear like everyone says. Got a set brand new and out the door for $900.

So they have been on the car about 26 hours and then it happened. I went through a dip in the raod that was not too bad, but caused some heavy compression and the rears rubbed so bad that there are some huge chunks that were taken out of the rear two tires. Bad enough that they will need to be replaced. 315's fit just fine....really.....
Sorry to hear this.

If you have stock wheels and running stock height rear I can't imagine how you chunked the 315s so bad.
Can you tell us more or post some pics, where they rubbed inside or outside?


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