abg123

Well..as I posted earlier I was "about to join the ranks". But wow is me. PPI turned up a poultry 8,900 or so stage II over revs . Needles to say you might want to stay away from this one:

http://www.theautobarn.com/detail-20...3-2694815.html

Also...I'd be wary of the dealership. Some of the answers they were giving me just didnt add up.

996FLT6

I forgot is stage 2 worse then stage 1? I remeber onew is the dreaded money shift and the other boincing off the rev limiter. Even if its the rev limiter thats alot of overevs. Did the orignial owner know theres 6 gears? Mike

abg123

I've listened to a few Rennlist vetrans in my searches..I'm pretty sure they all said 1 or 2 stage II's are normal...but when this guy said over 8900 "I fell out me chair"

996FLT6

researching the archives stage 2 is the money shift and 1 is the rev limiter. With that many stage 2 the engine would be kaput. Surprised it hasnt already. Mike

KOAN

I think that the # of Type 2 overrevs refers to the # of detonations that occur during the bad shift. At 8900rpms, they could add up fast. I believe it is not the number of unplanned down shifts. Obviously, this is not a car you'd want to buy, although I am not certain that this indicates certain damage...just an unwanted and unknown severity of overrevving.
I guess we are lucky that the 996 was the first PORSCHE to provide this recordable information. It could be a double edged sword...
BTW, a type 1 overrev is just bumping into the rev limiter, which does not harm the engine.

AllanJ

Type 1 = hitting the rev limiter
Type 2 = rev limiter + at least 1 rpm over

So a type 2 could be a hair over the rev limiter (no damage) to 3000+ rpm and beyond for a nasty money shift. You'll never know.

Cheers,

Holger B

Not good, but Chuck is right that the recorded number builds very quickly.

Mr Michael B

Let me add a bit to this...

Range 1 is indeed the electronically limited over-rev (not a big deal) and Range 2 is the forced over-rev. However with that said I have seen several GT3's that are counting these in reverse order (confirmed with exhaustive testing). This may not be the case in the car you looked at but if the Range 1 over-rev count is lower than the Range 2 then you know you have found a backwards reading ECU (simple enough right?). I have confirmed with Bosch that this is nothing more than a simple error in the programming

And to add just a tad bit more. The 997 variants have eight ranges now so we can see more of what actually has happened. No more wondering if it was 1 RPM over or 3000 RPM over. The additional ranges cover most all of the possibilities.

enthusiast

... and a little more information. It is recording of cumulative ignitions.

Range 1: number of engine ignitions at electronic limiter

Range 2: number of engine ignitions over specified rpm

At 8,200 rpm the engine has 410 ignitions per second. As someone else said, these ignitions add up quickly.

Agree that with this limited recorded information it is hard to know if the engine had any damage as a result of having any low number of Range 2 ignitions.

abg123

That is correct. Matter of fact The Porsche rep use the word "ignitions"..NOT over rev. Perhaps 8900 "ignitions" is not that bad? I'll have to chek back w/ him on that.???

AllanJ

I like your wording better than mine.

Cheers,

Rob in VA

That amount sounds about normal for a track driven GT3. I remember a few hardcore guys with 12k-15k and others that had to get the number reset. Do an extensive search to find more info.

Z06

Did you have any problems? these type of over revs hurt the pressure plate and drop the crank pulley.

jrgordonsenior

These GT1 based motors are relatively bullet proof unless you're hitting 10k in an missed shift. The clutch assemby is designed to blow around 9000 + - thus preserving the motor....

CT03911

I have been curious about this and asked at a respected Porsche shop recently. I was told you have to be above 10k to damage anything. This car had 20 seconds of type 2. Perhaps a bit high but in the big scheme of things not really off the charts.
I'd say you could do a compression check and more and then have them sell you an extended warranty for cheap. Negotiate down and then drive it away.