multi21

I've used the Nittos on the front of my car and had MPSC on the rear. The rears are shot with what appears to be a lot of life left on the front, as is expected from a rear engine car. I had a photo to attach of the fronts, but the server said the file is too big. Can anyone give me a hint on how to scale it down so I can post it?

Anyway, the following is what I have on the front Nittos so far:

3000 total miles which includes driving to and from the track. Of those 3000 miles, an estimated 700 are track miles with 2 autocrosses mixed in. The heat cycle totals are 33 so far. The Nittos still appear to be giving good grip levels and did not go off as much as the MPSC. The MPSC give you great grip and confidence level when new, but make you weary as they start to give up life.

I'll be putting Nittos on the rear for future track events.

multi21

Got it. This is what they look like. I know I need more negative camber. When I got the car, I thought I'd use it more on the street, but I don't. I have 1.5 deg. neg. in the front and 2 deg in the rear. A more aggresive track alignment should help out the outer wear.

LVDell

I'll take some pics of mine next week when I change over to the street pads, wheels/tires, etc..

I can say my car had -2.5F and -2.8R. It appears I have good wear in the rear and might even dial it out a bit (say -2.5) but the front really needs -3.0+. I have wear similar to yours Pete. Problem is I need to shim or get new control arms. I am maxed out stock in front. It's on my list of summer "to do's" for the car. I am keeping a log of miles and cycles so I will be able to give a really good report on the tire and it's life.

Rob in VA

Dell, you can get a bunch more negative camber up front out of the box by doing the following:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...78&postcount=7

LVDell

I will not rotate. You can but it is not the preferred method. Either shims or new control arms is the way I will go.

jesc996tt

hey guys
any experience with yokohama A048?
thanks

Rob in VA

ok.

Phokaioglaukos

Your call, Dell, but many have rotated to good effect. Some say heavy shimming affects caster adversely.

Paul 996

I am curious, mind sharing your view on why not? Is there a down side to this approach?

LVDell

Paul, Chris, there are 2 issues at play here. The is a set floor on camber by rotating so if you want to adjust below that mark you are SOL unless you go through the trouble of rotating again. Second, I heard the castor problem was also from rotation.

If somebody coudl chime in and tell me otherwise I am all ears. I am heading into the shop next week for alignment adjustments and need to get "find" some more camber. Would I need to have the car corner balanced again after rotation? My shop would be able to rotate but not corner balance.

Also, when I was getting my car set up by Greg Jones (when he was at Synergy) I asked him about that and he rec'd against it and rather to use shims or get new control arms.

But as I said, I am all ears to learn.

Larry Herman

Dell, as long as you do not want less than -2 degrees camber, rotating the strut tops is the best way to achieve this. The max range doing this is about -4.5. It absolutely does not affect the caster like adding shims. This what I did to my car, it worked perfectly, and I have seen others struggle with the shim setup. Also, if you don't mine a little grinding, you can just elongate the slots in the fender tops about 1/2 inch to allow the strut to slide inward a little more. That can give you up to -3 degrees, and can be easily reset at any time.

LVDell

Thanks for the clarification Larry. I am taking my car in tomorrow to my shop and talked to my guy about this and he has never done it or heard of it. If this is something I can "explain" in rudementary terms that a mechanic would understand then I could run this buy him.

As of now, the job is going to be shims at the arm with fine adjustment at the top.

Phokaioglaukos

The explanation that my shop understood was that there are from the factory two sets of holes into which the locating pins in the strut top can fit. Loosen the nuts, lift the struts and place the locating pins in the alternative set of holes. It's done commonly with the 996 GT3.

AudiOn19s

Dell. The top mount on the front has two sets of holes. Basically remove the studs from the standard holes and move them to the secondary set in the top mount in the front.

I stole this picture from SRM996...he has GT3 top mounts on his PSS9's on his C2 with the rotation done as pictured here and has over 3 degrees of negative camber.


However hopefully NJ-GT will chime in as he's the one that advised me against doing the rotation because it too changes caster values and makes the steering wheel active and lively. this is because the strut doesn't sit exactly in the middle of all 3 holes on the top mount so you're moving it's physical location when you switch to the other set of holes in the top mount. IIRC through my research most of the populate camber plates have the same problem as well. He's using the Manthey plates which are side specific and allow more camber without sacrificing caster change. However that solution I found to be too much $$$ for my taste.

Andy

LVDell

And that is the reason I was going to go with shims. I heard the same thing. ARGH!!!!! All this conflicting information.