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Johannvb, I think you are wise to not use the LSD in this condition. I think the advice to drive the car to wear in the plates is ill-advised.
According to Matt of Guards, the thickness of the stock ramps vary:
"We see them anywhere from a low of around 70.5mm to a high of just shy of 73mm.”
Because of the ramp thickness variation, Matt states:
"...we demand that if you are not replacing your ramps that your LSD be apart and measured before we pick exactly what thickness and spec parts we're going to send you. This is also why you get hit with 20 questions about application and driving style and primary track beforehand. We're looking to hit a particular gap and behavior of your LSD that suits you specifically."
It seems that a) this policy was not adhered to and b) the replacement belleville washers are at least a millimeter thicker than stock. Clearly the 1.75mm original vs 5mm new clearance and 100Nm breakaway torque indicate the new washers are way too thick. I would get the measurements to Sharkwerks and let them communicate with Guards.
You could probably use one or both of the stock washers and re-measure the torque. Of course that would defeat the purpose of Matt's "...looking to hit a particular gap and behavior of your LSD that suits you specifically..". Lacking Matt's specification, it seems that these clutch kits should include various washers, so one can at least adjust the torque to Porsche specification, and prevent this problem in the first place.
(ref: Posted in This forum, Oct 2011)
Last edited by black04; 05-28-2020 at 02:47 AM.
Reason: spelling and more detail
Thanks for you input Joel. Alex from Sharkwerks has responded to me and my technician and he basically said to button it up and drive it. He did to talk about spacers, or different widths and he confirned that he discussed this with Matt. Unfortunately Matt has not yet responded to me PM, but I I know of his personal situation so I will take the advice of Alex and just get the guys to bolt everything up and drive it.
Thanks for you input Joel. Alex from Sharkwerks has responded to me and my technician and he basically said to button it up and drive it. He did to talk about spacers, or different widths and he confirned that he discussed this with Matt. Unfortunately Matt has not yet responded to me PM, but I I know of his personal situation so I will take the advice of Alex and just get the guys to bolt everything up and drive it.
I recommend that you at least measure the ramp thickness before you button it up.
That way, you could get different belleville washers before you take the LSD apart again.
Hopefully you can drive "5 heat cycles", measure the breakaway torque and get back to us.
I got my car back on Thursday morning after being at the dealer for what felt like forever.
First of all; Thank you for all the help and advice I received from all of you, this has been crucial in me finding and solving the issues with my car. I can happily report back that my car has been transformed I have NEVER driven my GT3 so often as I have in the past few days.
So here is what I had done:
Öhlins Road & Track fitted. I ordered POS MI10
New top mounts - Original Porsche
New drop links - Original Porsche
Replaced the clutch pack in my LSD with plates from GT Gears.
Had the car aligned to factory specs
Front axle: Camber: -1º00' Max camber difference, left/right: 2' Toe total: +8' (left and right equal at 0°4') Caster: 7°50' (left) 7°47' (right) Max caster difference, left/right: 3' Front height: 118mm Swaybar – 1 from hard
Rear axle: Toe total: 23’ (left 0°11' and right 0°12') Max toe difference, left/right: 1' Camber: -1°50' Max camber difference, left/right: 4' Rear height: 132mm Swaybar – 1 from hard
I realise that this alignment will introduce a certain amount of understeer, but for now I wanted to go back to the basics before I start playing with settings again.
I was out for a long drive yesterday with speeds up to 260 Kilometres per hour and here is what I noticed:
My front tyres no longer rub my wheel liners at full lock
There are no noises coming from the suspension when going through a hairpin
When I put down the power coming out of a corner the back steps out ever so lightly and I can manage this with the throttle
When I lift the throttle in a long sweeping corner the car stays true with no upset in the handling
When I slam the brakes there is no fish tailing
When I am changing gears under full acceleration there is no more twichiness in the rear as I reengage the clutch
The car is no longer tram lining
If all I have to do is cope with a little understeer under hard cornering I think I might just stick with this alignment spec.
I also want to give a special mention to Alex Ross from Sharkwerks who provided excellent service and advice and showed immense patience while coaching my technician through the rebuild. As an OPC they were very nervous about putting in non Porsche equipment but it all worked out well and I think they will be doing the GT gears rebuild more often in the future.