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So here is a few pics of my 112,700 mile IMS bearing
Picked up the car today from Scott at Mcilvain Motors up in Phoenix. My car is an 02 C4 Original IMS, already had 2 RMS and 2 IMSB flange seals replaced by Original Owner. I got the car at 108K miles and changed the oil. Nothing in the filter at all. Car was running great. Had the bearing, RMS, AOS, Water pump(original to car), Clutch-no flywheel needed, tranny fluid, and Low temp thermostat done. Only additional worn part found was the flex disk. I guess is a part only for awd models and goes with age.
Bearing shows a bit of wear on the outside surfaces, but spins with no noise. I have never held and spun a new bearing so I'm not sure what normal feels like? This does not free spin, but seems smooth. At first when I got it back I was thinking there wasn't even oil in it. LOL. Once I started prying on it out it came. The bearings sure look ok and completely intact. I'll let the experts chime in if they see something else. Replaced with the LN dual row for a single row car...
Strange to think that such a small part can cause such massive destruction to a motor. When Scott handed me the IMS I was shocked to see how small it is...From photos I have seen I was thinking they were bigger.
Clutch was getting close to the rivets so it was a good time to replace it. I can't believe how smooth and easy to push it feels now.
take it back to your Indy and get them to let you run it through the parts washer to get that oil cleaned out. Then you'll actually be able to see a bit clearer.
The only way to really see, however, is to take it apart. If you want it as a souvineer though, don't take it apart as it doesn't go back together nicely from what I've seen.
If you do want to hang onto it, I'd suggest getting it plated in something that won't tarnish and etch. It will still spin afterwards (though not quite as smoothly).
take it back to your Indy and get them to let you run it through the parts washer to get that oil cleaned out. Then you'll actually be able to see a bit clearer.
The only way to really see, however, is to take it apart. If you want it as a souvineer though, don't take it apart as it doesn't go back together nicely from what I've seen.
If you do want to hang onto it, I'd suggest getting it plated in something that won't tarnish and etch. It will still spin afterwards (though not quite as smoothly).
Question from a newb, hope you guys don't mind. Isn't this a bearing on the way out? The failure mode for the bearing is, as I understand it:
--Sealed bearing containing permanent lubrication (grease or whatever, but not oil)
--Bearing seals fail, letting in oil (like the bearing in the OP's pic?)
--Oil eventually washes away the permanent lubrication, but the oil doesn't stay in the bearing either (or, engine oil doesn't do the lube job well enough).
--Bearing goes kablooey, owner regrets being born, etc. etc.
Is that right? Not that it matters (I've got the LNE bearing), I'm just curious.
The bullet points are pretty much on target... But... It does matter. LN bearings need to be replaced at a set service interval or mileage as well (it varies depending on which bearing). The Solution is the only "permanent" fix for the IMSB.
Not really. There are examples of 200k+ factory bearings working fine (obviously rare) as well as plenty over 100k. I'd bet against any one of those examples still having solid seals and the factory grease in them.
That isn't an issue that directly leads to bearing failure. It's more about once the seals fail and the grease washes out, how effective is the oil circulating through the bearing.
This is part of the basis of the "drive it as it was meant to be driven" point of view. Cars that sit for long periods, do not get long runs for the motor to burn off impurities in the oil, see long OCIs, and don't use the upper reaches of the RPM band are where the worry is. This is because all those things combine to allow old oil to get stuck in there and turn acidic which in turn etches the ***** and races. THAT is when things start their downward spiral.
The only way to know the state of this (or any) bearing 100% is to disassemble it so the ***** and races can be examined closely. Given that this one saw 100k with no signs of issues, I'd bet on it being just fine if it were my car.
The bullet points are pretty much on target... But... It does matter. LN bearings need to be replaced at a set service interval or mileage as well (it varies depending on which bearing). The Solution is the only "permanent" fix for the IMSB.
Oh, well aware. My bearing is due to be replaced in 2020 (I won't hit 75,000 miles by then), going by the recommended service interval. Already saving up!
Not really. There are examples of 200k+ factory bearings working fine (obviously rare) as well as plenty over 100k. I'd bet against any one of those examples still having solid seals and the factory grease in them.
That isn't an issue that directly leads to bearing failure. It's more about once the seals fail and the grease washes out, how effective is the oil circulating through the bearing.
This is part of the basis of the "drive it as it was meant to be driven" point of view. Cars that sit for long periods, do not get long runs for the motor to burn off impurities in the oil, see long OCIs, and don't use the upper reaches of the RPM band are where the worry is. This is because all those things combine to allow old oil to get stuck in there and turn acidic which in turn etches the ***** and races. THAT is when things start their downward spiral.
The only way to know the state of this (or any) bearing 100% is to disassemble it so the ***** and races can be examined closely. Given that this one saw 100k with no signs of issues, I'd bet on it being just fine if it were my car.
Interesting! So a great majority of bearings "fail" in the sense that they are no longer working as designed (with their permanent lube in place), but not all "fail fail," destroying the engine. Come to think of it, I don't think I've ever seen a picture on here of a removed bearing with factory lubrication. They all seem to have oil. Small sample sizes, of course.
Make sure to return that bearing to LN. They require it to go back to have any warranty on the new bearing.
If I am not mistaken, the "warranty" from LNE is limited to the wholesale price of the bearing. So, if it fails, LNE will refund the wholesale cost of the bearing and nothing more.
Oh, and it's good for a full 30 days from the date of installation.
Frankly, I wouldn't waste the time and postage to send it back in. I'd keep it to hand off to the new owner when you sell it so that they can inspect it themselves. And it makes a cool souvenir. Basically, a really expensive one of these:
Question from a newb, hope you guys don't mind. Isn't this a bearing on the way out? The failure mode for the bearing is, as I understand it:
--Sealed bearing containing permanent lubrication (grease or whatever, but not oil)
--Bearing seals fail, letting in oil (like the bearing in the OP's pic?)
--Oil eventually washes away the permanent lubrication, but the oil doesn't stay in the bearing either (or, engine oil doesn't do the lube job well enough).
--Bearing goes kablooey, owner regrets being born, etc. etc.
Is that right? Not that it matters (I've got the LNE bearing), I'm just curious.
Mine was definitely full of oil..seemed pretty clean too. The car was driven over 5K miles a year and was very well maintained, never tracked etc. I am happy I had the bearing done..at least now I know.
06-19-2017, 09:53 PM
So here is a few pics of my 112,700 mile IMS bearing
I like your gold one.
