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Remember the 996 measures and regulates cooling water temperature when entering the engine while typical is that this is done when exiting the engine. So your Mini might run cooler then your Porsche...
True, and what's funny to me is that if Porsche decided to put an oil temp gauge on the 996 like they did on the 997 and the older air-cooled cars, we would be fussing over oil temps instead of water temps, LOL.
At the end of the day, Porsche might consider a track-car optional component that can be installed so that Porsche owners can control their car's oil and water temps. I propose a variable t-stat setting, along with overrides that allow folks to choose temperature set points for sensors and for fans. That way, Porsche street cars will still pass emissions and have good mileage, but fanatics (read: us) can control temps with an app to make us sleep better at night, even if sleeping better is the only benefit.
To me, it could be like the variable **** intermittent windshield wiper control that lets me constantly adjust, to a finite degree, exactly how much delay I want for my wipers. As ridiculous as this level of control might appear to A 'normal' person, I love it.
Keeping everything clean and free from debris will go along way for helping keep things cool, you would be surprised what a few leafs could have on impact of cooling
FYI, I have one and it is an enthusiast license, but I've plugged it into about 4 or 5 cars and it doesn't have even one VIN registered, so you are welcome to come over and plug in.
Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978
Good idea. I suspect that folks' fan and sensors might not be operating 100%. My 18-yr-old car, I suspect, doesn't kick in the low-speed fans unless the AC is on, indicating that somethings broken. I have yet to buy a Durametric, but looking for one.
Yeah, my counter seems to be busted too - probably a symptom of the software not exactly being current not being able to write somewhere the more modern OSes now regulate.
So update: when checking the functionality of the fans it was clear the driver side fan did not come in at low fan speed, only high fan speed (at 107C). This in the end was a none-functioning solenoid (one dislocated pin). Since we were addressing cooling I had the waterpump replaced (the one coming out after 19 years was still perfect) and the thermostat by a low temp thermostat (Wahler 71C/160F). Also coolant flush (of course).
Now driving at moderate temperatures engine temperature is at 82C and when getting into the city goes up a few degrees but comfortably below 90C. Not like before that it went all the way to 107C before the fans kicked in at high speed.
Had a nice bumper to bumper drive over Coldwater Canyon in LA...outside temp was between 93 and 96F. Had the top down, no ac on. (The tip has and additional radiator and a fan goes on automatically at start up if the ac is on.) The engine coolant temp needle moved to the far end of the 0 in 180...and then drifted back to the middle of it. When I stopped the car to shop, no fans were running nor came on. The engine bay fan never came on. When I got on some open road and the air was flowing, the temp moved to the left side of the 0. All of this has been normal for the year and a half I've owned the car. If I was moving to Palm Springs or Pheonix or Texas I would go for the low temp thermostat but in Los Angeles, I don't feel it is necessary.
Probably the 3rd radiator makes a ton of difference.
My car now runs around 82C while driving (thermostate fully open) casually. When stepping on it, it goes a bit up. At the end of the drive I let the car sit with the engine running without AC. The temperature then goes up to 104C when both fans come in at low speed cooling down to 100C when they switch off again. With AC on the fans will continuously at low speed so I guess then the car will hold the temperature down (unless outside temps are really high).
I cleaned the radiators, replaced leaky hoses, flushed the system twice and installed a 160 thermostat.
That was not giving me the results I wanted to see while driving around town or stuck in traffic.
It has and will continue to be over 100 degrees in the Bay Area.
What I did was: all of the above and the fan low/high jump. With the a/c off the car's temperature will not go higher than 104c.
What I have been doing while around town is turning the a/c on low, with the low/high jump, the makes the fans blow at full speed. This was my last resort as it feels like ghetto rigging, however, it works.
Note, if I know I will get stuck in traffic I keep the a/c on low.
Conclusion:
the car runs fresh at ~87c and most importantly the oil gauge reads at 1.5 bars.
The results are pretty convincing and they have some great ideas too, such as the water pump/fans keep going after the engine has been switched off if the temps are high, so no heat soak etc. Pretty much dial in the temp you want the car at and the system maintains it at that temp regardless of how you're driving...
Costs are about the same for the parts, and fitting is probably 2-3 hours at least. And its all bolt-on/bolt-off, no modifications etc.
I'd love to hear Jake Raby's thoughts on this idea!
The results are pretty convincing and they have some great ideas too, such as the water pump/fans keep going after the engine has been switched off if the temps are high, so no heat soak etc. Pretty much dial in the temp you want the car at and the system maintains it at that temp regardless of how you're driving...
Costs are about the same for the parts, and fitting is probably 2-3 hours at least. And its all bolt-on/bolt-off, no modifications etc.
I'd love to hear Jake Raby's thoughts on this idea!
Rgd's
Timlin
Sounds like 21st century stuff! Question is what kind of volumes are required for the M96. I like the idea, keep us posted!
The results are pretty convincing and they have some great ideas too, such as the water pump/fans keep going after the engine has been switched off if the temps are high, so no heat soak etc. Pretty much dial in the temp you want the car at and the system maintains it at that temp regardless of how you're driving...
Costs are about the same for the parts, and fitting is probably 2-3 hours at least. And its all bolt-on/bolt-off, no modifications etc.
I'd love to hear Jake Raby's thoughts on this idea!
Rgd's
Timlin
Electric pumps were quite common on hotrod builds over 20 years ago. The problem with modification to any M96 engine is that the cooling issues are also a factor of how much heat can be removed by the front radiators. After you put in a low temperature thermostat, you still want the fans in the front to extract the heat. I don’t think the water pump on the M96 has much trouble circulating the fluids. That’s my opinion based on how the temps have risen and fallen on my car - almost all of it seems to be mostly a factor of how much air is past the front radiators.
I'd love to hear Jake Raby's thoughts on this idea
The CEO of the company that owns Davies Craig is one of my customers.
I have been using these since they came out, and was the first to test their newest systems, and the EWP150 as well. We've had one in use since 2008. Nothing new here....
The heat soak removal sounds like a great idea as does the "dial-in temp" and for get.
Can you tell me about the the installation? Where dis you mount the pump for instance? Were any mods required to get the fans talking to the controller etc?
Any details you can provide will be greatly appreciated. I've spoken to DC and could only get as far as "they didn't know of a 996 EWP conversion in Australia yet...") The sales guy had a beautiful 550 Spyder kit car with a Subaru WRX engine in it though, and it was using a EWP - as you'd expect I guess!
The heat soak removal sounds like a great idea as does the "dial-in temp" and for get.
Can you tell me about the the installation? Where dis you mount the pump for instance? Were any mods required to get the fans talking to the controller etc?
Any details you can provide will be greatly appreciated. I've spoken to DC and could only get as far as "they didn't know of a 996 EWP conversion in Australia yet...") The sales guy had a beautiful 550 Spyder kit car with a Subaru WRX engine in it though, and it was using a EWP - as you'd expect I guess!
Anyway, any info would be great to know!
Rgd's
Timlin
I use them as bypass recirculation, and for post cooling between track sessions.
The 550 belongs to John Benson. He was going to buy an engine for that car from me, but he didn’t like it when he found himself at the end of the line that’s a year long...
06-14-2017, 02:33 PM
