dporto

Ahsai, Thanks! - Yes, you are correct... I saw that the engine/cam cover was a little different, but the area was the same and TNT63Falcon's photo was so convenient I couldn't pass up the opportunity!

Imo000

So, did you do a proper diagnosis before pulling the engine?

Device2

I'm attentively watching since I have a similar issue just pop up. The CEL with code P1325, so opposite side of what you have going on. I already replaced the variocam pads a while back since mine were worn. So I will be doing some similar diagnostic work to check the solenoid with the suggested methods from some of the previous discussions of code P1325 via the search function and this thread since testing of solenoids are similar. Good luck and hope you isolate the culprit of your issue.

I will troubleshoot first then follow suit as far as dropping the motor if need be. All part of the fun of 996 ownership.

dporto

^NO^ I haven't pulled the engine - And I'm hoping I won't have to! That was a photo that someone else had posted last night or this morning, so I just copied it and circled the cam actuator solenoid (to be sure I was going to pull out the proper thing). Last night I had just enough time to get up to the shop and get the car up on jack stands and get the drivers side wheel off. I won't be able to get to tonight either - the plan is to do the diagnostics as you guys have outlined tomorrow evening, and hopefully identify the culprit. Thanks for checking in. I'll post either tomorrow evening or Friday morning.

dporto

Ah... Good luck! I'm hoping it's not the pads on mine, as I'm not looking forward to dropping the engine. There's a good thread on Renntech as well (if you didn't see it there's a link earlier in this thread) - you may want to check it out.

ECU Doctors

We've seen this issue before.

The most consistent way that we have identified it happens is that:

-the solenoid for the camshaft stops working properly and it eventually fails, then;
-the amperage on the wires increases and back feeds to the DME shorting out the computer

The most common codes for this failure are the ones already described as P1539, P1397 & P1341.

Most time the DME needs to be fixed. This is easy to tell just by the "burnt" smell coming from the unit.

Then the solenoid replacement job needs to be done as well.

Schnell Gelb

Thanks to ECU Doctors for the easy "Smell Test".
Perhaps they would comment if it is wise to open up the DME to inspect and get a stronger smell ?
I understand there is one clearly visible ,very odd Transistor in the DME that is prone to overheating and if the VarioCam Solenoid(not the Actuator!) fails and back-feeds substantial amps to the DME.
For those reluctant to spend the money($500??) on a "visit to the ecu Doctor" ,you can get some small upgrades to the DME programming done at the same time .For example ROW reflash to avoid the SAI problems!
See the link below and scroll through it. Perhaps ECU Doctors would comment on this since we are giving them a free plug :-)?
http://www.ecudoctors.com/porsche-bo...g-flash-2.html
BTW - you can easily test the VarioCam Solenoid - It should show 13 ohms +/- if you disconnect the 2 pin connector nearby .Mentioned in prior Posts in this and other related Threads.

dporto

Hmmm very interesting! I got up to my shop last night and hooked her back up to the Durametric (issues with that to come later in the thread). So once started and idling (but not fully warmed up) the cam deviations are pretty much the same as before - -6.13 on bank 1 and -7.25 on bank 2. I was able to activate the Vario-cam on both banks and clearly hear it activate (slight clicking noise) and a difference in the idle - especially when de-activating/stopping it (the idle would drop and then come back up). Notably, bank two had a "stronger effect" when stopping the Vario-cam activation (more of a "stumble" in the idle before coming back to normal). So, this leads me to believe the solenoids are indeed "working". I didn't get to pull the solenoid due to being pressed for time - obviously the two bolts on the side of the engine are easy to reach, but the plug not so much - it's a little burried so I'll need a little more time to get to it - probably later on this weekend. Do you it is still necessary to check/test the solenoid itself ? Or, is it more of an On/Off propositon? Could it be working intermitently - anything is possible I guess? And even so, they don't seem to be affecting the cam deviations overall, even though they seem to be working. I also noticed, that as the engine warmed up, the deviations lessened a bit (see photo's) - Is this normal operation?








** A few other things I learned...
1 - My engine compartment fan actually works, as I'm able to activate it from Durametric
2 - I've got a fault with my headlights (Litronics) but I'm not sure exactly what it means Anyone have a clue what "Engine path left" and "engine path right" means?
3 - Durametric is clunky - You can't have multiple windows open simultaneously (at least I can't) and when you switch back and forth between operations (i.e. activations, and actual values) it often/always locks up. When you close the program, it won't open back up unless you pull the usb cable and then plug it back in.

Ahsai

Sounds like your variocam is working on both banks. I'll go with Porschetech3's suggestion then - replace cam pads and retime the engine.

dporto

Hmmmm... Looks like I've got some serious work to do Oh well, I've gotten two nice years of driving out of it before doing any engine work so I guess I've been fairly fortunate. I was hoping to be driving it again soon - given my time allocation at this time of year, probably not now. It sure will be sweet when I get 'er back on the road!

Ahsai

Shouldn't be too bad if you drop the engine. Can also change out other PM items at the same time. Forgot to say it's normal for the cam deviation values to change a bit after the engine is fully warmed up and also across drive cycles.

ECU Doctors

Of course you can open your ECU for a visual inspection. That's the 1st thing that we recommend you do in our video on how to diagnose your own ECU.

dporto

Yes, I thought that was normal. Also, at -6.xx I think they're not too far beyond spec. right? (IIRC - up to +/- 6 degrees crk ?). Other PM's... Well, I do have a New AOS lying around (I got it from another rennlister...I hope it's good). I suppose the water pump and thermostat are on the table... I also noticed last night that one of my spark plug tubes are leaking - I wasn't sure if it was the cam cover, but i clearly identified the sp tube as I was working last night

dporto

Certainly no burning smell from mine, but this is great info to have for future reference!

Paul Waterloo

dporto:

After reading your thread, went out and measured my cam timing on my car yesterday. Did not measure it last year. Here are my results:



It did not change from a cold engine to a hot engine yesterday, but it was cool out and I only drove it about 10 mile to warm it up.

I too have replacement of the cam pads on my to-do list. Would drop the engine and either replace the IMS bearing or put the solution in....or have somebody do all of this for me. Sounds fun to do it myself. I don't think I will do it this year.