Schnell Gelb

Maybe call Durametric ?
Your situation points to the usefulness of the cross over test harness mentioned previously.
Or use a noid light or DMM at the Variocam harness connector and run the engine to 3k rpm.

dporto

"Your situation points to the usefulness of the cross over test harness mentioned previously.
Or use a noid light or DMM at the Variocam harness connector and run the engine to 3k rpm."

Did you actually make the "crossover harness"? If so, I could use the part #'s for the connectors if you've got them. I found the part number on the "coil driver" if it turns out to be that in the DME.

Schnell Gelb

This was covered in the Renntech Thread.I made a dedicated harness for every test I modified Bosch EV1 connectors.Not straightforward- think dentistry !. Remember to preserve and mark the polarity of the test-harness connector and the car.I used a dedicated DMM with single purpose harness for each test except the cross-over Bank 1-to-Bank 2 harness.

Ahsai

Did you try downgrading it to an older version of Durametric if possible? Can it activate other things such as the SAI pump w/o crashing?

dporto

I haven't tried it yet, but it definitely on "the list of things to try"...I've been pressed for time, so I haven't been able to "go deep" yet... maybe on Sunday

dporto

So, I made it up to the shop last night but was seriously pressed for time. I brought my laptop and was planning on updating/backdating Durametric, but couldn't get a internet connection . Fortunately, I was able to run a few checks - one of which crashed the program (Litronic light activations). I think there may be a problem with Durametric due to me not uninstalling before updating the program. Anyway, I'll get to that today and maybe/hopefully get back to the car tomorrow. One nice little thing I got done was zip tying the Clutch pedal "start enable" switch seen here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=702-00 This switch locks the ignition out unless the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Zip tying the switch "closed" (or jumping the lugs/wires) allows you to start the car without engaging the clutch - which is really bad for the crankshaft end shims - especially if the car sits a lot (= dry shims). The funny part about this "nanny/safety feature" is that it's only present in the American cars... ***Do this mod at your own risk and always make sure your car is in neutral before starting - especially if you leave it in gear while parked*** apparently Europeans are able to handle this responsibility...

wildbilly32

d: Any update on the car situation? Enquiring minds want to know.

dporto

Nothing yet... I've actually spent about two hours getting the shop cleaned up and all tools cleaned and put back in their proper places. In addition, my son and I got his '87 944S out of the garage as well the other night. This Thursday - Sunday I'm booked 5 nights in a row (closet R&R musician) so I won't see any shop time 'til sometime next week. In the meantime, I've uninstalled and reinstalled Durametric on my laptop so hopefully that will run without crashing, and I can get back to diagnosing the bank 1 Vario-cam actuator/solenoid.

wildbilly32

WELL...??

dporto

Nope... I've been swamped the last couple weeks. It's kind of a pain because I have to pull the wheel off, pull the wheel liner out just to access that area/those plugs. I just haven't had a large enough block of time to get things figured out.

wildbilly32

Ok. No pressure just curious and hopeful...

dporto

Me too!!!

dporto

Quick update - while driving the car today, my CEL went out. Last weekend, I popped the DME/ECU out and checked the board. I didn't find anything obvious (burnt components or connections) so I put it back together and buttoned everything back up. I drove the car a little bit - probably 25 - 30 mi. and it ran fine - as it has since I've done the work - but the light remained on. Today, shortly after I took it for a drive the CEL went out... I'm wondering if it is the drive cycle since unplugging and replugging the DME (approximately 60-80 mi.)? I plan on plugging in the Durametric in a little while... will update after...

Porschetech3

Do you mean that the CEL was still on even after you had removed the DME and opened it up? Would the CEL not go off and the code clear ? Did you attempt to clear the code after you reinstalled the DME? Normaly it takes 2 drives with a fault code for it to illuminate the CEL. and it takes 20 drive cycles with NO fault for the DME to self-clear a code !! Did you do a HARD RESET of the DME? Seems like this is shaping up to be one of those weird problems.

dporto

"Seems like this is shaping up to be one of those weird problems."

You're telling me! Granted, it's partially my work style that tends to confuse things - I rarely get large enough blocks of time to do things in a linear/scientific/controlled way. So after my last post I went back out and started the car (it was still warm) and plugged in the Durametric (which has since been uninstalled, updated and reinstalled). Wow...everything seems to be working well - I can activate the vario-cams without the computer crashing and better yet, THEY'RE WORKING! Unfortunately, at this point I can only guess as to why. It's possible that they were working all along, and the Durametric program was messed up (and uninstallation/re-installation fixed it), or that there might have been a blockage in the bank 1 actuator that has cleared itself, or removing and re-installing the DME cleaned a funky connection...