which code scanner?
#1
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From: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
which code scanner?
I am in the market for a good 996 diagnostic scan tool. What would you guys recommend? I would like one that resets the CEL along with trouble codes, after I repair the fault without me having to disconnect the battery. Disconnecting the battery puts all monitors out of commission until the drive cycles are complete for each monitor. Right now I am once again driving like crazy trying to set the evap system into the READY mode. Thanks in advance.
#2
Besides Durametric, I have a OBDII handheld scanner I got from AutoZone for like $49. Scans codes, tells you the codes, and erases any codes. Super simple and easy. Takes about 1 minute from the time I plug it in to find any codes and clear them. I leave it in the door pocket for quick checks while on the road. I've also used it on many other cars/trucks.
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Ferdinand 996 (08-05-2020)
#3
I think I must have the same scan tool as DBJoe. Just about any scan tool can read codes and clear the CEL. However, clearing codes will cause all the monitor activities to reset as well; you can't reset just one code.
While any tool will report the code, none of them will tell you what the issue is. Except Durametric or other Porsche-specific device. As an example, I had a P1341. All it told me was the code number and some gibberish about being a manufacturer specific code. Of course, Google tells you anything about 1341 that you'd want to know.
Additionally, a generic reader will just report on the OBDII codes. A PIWIS or Durametric can also report on airbag codes, antilock brake codes, seatbelt codes, ad nauseum, as well as reset a maintenance light after an oil change. All in addition to showing real-time engine operating parameters like cam deviation.
While any tool will report the code, none of them will tell you what the issue is. Except Durametric or other Porsche-specific device. As an example, I had a P1341. All it told me was the code number and some gibberish about being a manufacturer specific code. Of course, Google tells you anything about 1341 that you'd want to know.
Additionally, a generic reader will just report on the OBDII codes. A PIWIS or Durametric can also report on airbag codes, antilock brake codes, seatbelt codes, ad nauseum, as well as reset a maintenance light after an oil change. All in addition to showing real-time engine operating parameters like cam deviation.
#5
I am in the market for a good 996 diagnostic scan tool. What would you guys recommend? I would like one that resets the CEL along with trouble codes, after I repair the fault without me having to disconnect the battery. Disconnecting the battery puts all monitors out of commission until the drive cycles are complete for each monitor. Right now I am once again driving like crazy trying to set the evap system into the READY mode. Thanks in advance.
Paid around $200 for the Actron back then. 4 line LCD display. Read codes. Read pending codes. Clear codes. Read freeze frame data. Check readiness monitor. View data. Log data (about 60 seconds' worth.) Supported triggering some sensor tests.
$200 is a bit of money but the Actron unit has paid for itself many times over. I have used it with my Mustang, Camaro, Boxster, VW Golf TDi, GTO, and Turbo. I have used it with my Dad's Crown Vic and cars of friends and co-workers.
The extra features like being able to run sensor tests has proven useful too.
The Actron and its ilk does not support communicating with anything other than the OBD2 system (DME). No airbag controller communication. No security module communication. Etc.
For more than just OBD2 communication the Durametric is it unless you can locate a PST2 (Porsche System Tester 2) setup. But I believe these will ony "talk" to the older models, the 986/996 cars. And they can be rather expensive to buy.
For the use with the older models and the 987/997 and newer models you need a PIWIS. The genunie Porsche version is probably out of your price range. There are "Chinese" versions one of which a tech used when I had my 2003 996 Turbo in to an indy shop for O2 sensor replacement. The former Porsche tech told me the unit worked pretty good -- as a former Porche tech he was very familiar with the Porsche PIWIS -- but I didn't bother to ask what brand it was.
#6
+1 on the Actron. I have the Pocket Scanner Plus which was about $90.
Hurdi - If you're trying to get the last monitor into ready status for an inspection, check with your state. Most states allow 1 or 2 monitors to be not ready and still pass emissions testing. I just went through that with my Volkswagen. I cleared a code and couldn't get the last monitor into ready status. Finally I went to the inspection station and told them. They said for my year (2004) I could have one monitor not ready. For cars MY 2000 and earlier, 2 not-ready monitors are allowed.
Hurdi - If you're trying to get the last monitor into ready status for an inspection, check with your state. Most states allow 1 or 2 monitors to be not ready and still pass emissions testing. I just went through that with my Volkswagen. I cleared a code and couldn't get the last monitor into ready status. Finally I went to the inspection station and told them. They said for my year (2004) I could have one monitor not ready. For cars MY 2000 and earlier, 2 not-ready monitors are allowed.
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9!!_VA (07-05-2021)
#7
If you use an iphone, you get the wifi version scanner and use the OBD fusion app.
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FunWithPaul (07-12-2024)
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#8
Details for Ahsai's recommendation I found to share with other iPhone guys:
OBD Fusion - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obd-...650684932?mt=8
https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion
Bluedriver odb2 seems to be the premium choice.
Any other iPhone based suggestions?
OBD Fusion - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obd-...650684932?mt=8
https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion
Bluedriver odb2 seems to be the premium choice.
Any other iPhone based suggestions?
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 03-18-2017 at 08:36 PM.
#10
I use the OBD Fusion app ($9.99 on iOS) and the ($35 on Amazon). It won't give me the fault code leading to my ABS warning light being on, but it appropriately diagnosed a O2 sensor fault.
#11
The big missing link for Durmetric+ M96 is "Actual Values". Yes you can read them .But where is the list of what those Actual Values should be? The M96 OBD manual is out of print and no clones are available(that I could find) .So you have to beg the experts here to interpret your Actual Values.
The same limitation applies to the OBD2 scanners we are discussing here. Without knowing what the Actual Values should be , it is difficult to use the tool effectively.
The same limitation applies to the OBD2 scanners we are discussing here. Without knowing what the Actual Values should be , it is difficult to use the tool effectively.
#12
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Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Ok guys I made my decision. I already have a cheapo OBD 11 scanner which is good but does not clear codes or CEL after repair. I decided to go for a small device which plugs into my dash connection. It's an OBD wi fi device which shows fault codes when they happen and is compatible with my iPhone. I bought an app for my iPhone where I can see live data as I drive, on readiness of my monitors and after I repair them can cancel out CEL and the codes. That's really all I need for now. Thanks again for all your input. The plug in and iPhone holder arrive on Monday. Total cost just over $30....
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mercaderfast (04-08-2020)
#14
Thread Starter
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From: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
#15
Ok guys I made my decision. I already have a cheapo OBD 11 scanner which is good but does not clear codes or CEL after repair. I decided to go for a small device which plugs into my dash connection. It's an OBD wi fi device which shows fault codes when they happen and is compatible with my iPhone. I bought an app for my iPhone where I can see live data as I drive, on readiness of my monitors and after I repair them can cancel out CEL and the codes. That's really all I need for now. Thanks again for all your input. The plug in and iPhone holder arrive on Monday. Total cost just over $30....
Plug the unit in and turn the key on. You don't need to start the engine.
If the unit is not on (lights should be lit), turn it on via the power button.
In iPhone Settings, go to Wifi and select the "V-link" WiFi network.
Select "Static" and enter this info:
IP Address: 192.168.0.11
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Router: 192.168.0.10
This will tell the iPhone not to try to get to the Internet via the V-Link network.
Start the DashCommand app and click "Connect"