Camshaft Actuator - Pull Engine?
12-03-2016, 03:40 AM
#1
Camshaft Actuator - Pull Engine?
Hi,
I've read through a few older posts on this topic but would like to ask anyway:
I have a 2000 ME. It had a check engine light and a slightly rough idle AFTER warming up. Not at startup. It still drove fine but just idled a little off.
Took it into independent shop and they read a code "P1325 - primary porsche fault 178 camshaft adjustment bank 1"
However, they needed another couple hours of labor to pinpoint the issue. Now, after 3 hrs of diagnostics, I still don't have a clear answer. I was told now that a 25A fuse blew and there is a short. They suspect the camshaft actuator is causing the short and there is a possibility it needs replaced.
Here is the kicker: I am told this would require the engine to be pulled!
Can anyone here with knowledge weigh in? I am wondering how to proceed. My car was running ok when I took it in and now I am told it's not drivable anymore.
Does the engine need to be pulled for this repair? Are there other things that could use this fault?
Thanks in advance!
Rudy
I've read through a few older posts on this topic but would like to ask anyway:
I have a 2000 ME. It had a check engine light and a slightly rough idle AFTER warming up. Not at startup. It still drove fine but just idled a little off.
Took it into independent shop and they read a code "P1325 - primary porsche fault 178 camshaft adjustment bank 1"
However, they needed another couple hours of labor to pinpoint the issue. Now, after 3 hrs of diagnostics, I still don't have a clear answer. I was told now that a 25A fuse blew and there is a short. They suspect the camshaft actuator is causing the short and there is a possibility it needs replaced.
Here is the kicker: I am told this would require the engine to be pulled!
Can anyone here with knowledge weigh in? I am wondering how to proceed. My car was running ok when I took it in and now I am told it's not drivable anymore.
Does the engine need to be pulled for this repair? Are there other things that could use this fault?
Thanks in advance!
Rudy
12-03-2016, 09:18 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,931
Likes: 0
Received 1,184 Likes
on
757 Posts
Not exactly specific to your issue but this shows how much work is needed to get to the camshaft actuator solenoid, if that is what turns out to be the actual problem - http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ain_Repair.htm
Make sure the shop checks the Bank 1 Hall sensor, which is the external sensor that provides feedback to the DME on camshaft position.
Make sure the shop checks the Bank 1 Hall sensor, which is the external sensor that provides feedback to the DME on camshaft position.
12-03-2016, 01:12 PM
#3
Race Director
Hi,
I've read through a few older posts on this topic but would like to ask anyway:
I have a 2000 ME. It had a check engine light and a slightly rough idle AFTER warming up. Not at startup. It still drove fine but just idled a little off.
Took it into independent shop and they read a code "P1325 - primary porsche fault 178 camshaft adjustment bank 1"
However, they needed another couple hours of labor to pinpoint the issue. Now, after 3 hrs of diagnostics, I still don't have a clear answer. I was told now that a 25A fuse blew and there is a short. They suspect the camshaft actuator is causing the short and there is a possibility it needs replaced.
Here is the kicker: I am told this would require the engine to be pulled!
Can anyone here with knowledge weigh in? I am wondering how to proceed. My car was running ok when I took it in and now I am told it's not drivable anymore.
Does the engine need to be pulled for this repair? Are there other things that could use this fault?
Thanks in advance!
Rudy
I've read through a few older posts on this topic but would like to ask anyway:
I have a 2000 ME. It had a check engine light and a slightly rough idle AFTER warming up. Not at startup. It still drove fine but just idled a little off.
Took it into independent shop and they read a code "P1325 - primary porsche fault 178 camshaft adjustment bank 1"
However, they needed another couple hours of labor to pinpoint the issue. Now, after 3 hrs of diagnostics, I still don't have a clear answer. I was told now that a 25A fuse blew and there is a short. They suspect the camshaft actuator is causing the short and there is a possibility it needs replaced.
Here is the kicker: I am told this would require the engine to be pulled!
Can anyone here with knowledge weigh in? I am wondering how to proceed. My car was running ok when I took it in and now I am told it's not drivable anymore.
Does the engine need to be pulled for this repair? Are there other things that could use this fault?
Thanks in advance!
Rudy
The work was done with the engine in the car. The exhaust has to come off and maybe the rear wheels and possibly the bumper cover.
My 2nd hand info is the 996 solenoid can be replaced fairly easily. (In the case of the Boxster the camshaft cover has to come off.)
If a new solenoid doesn't fix the problem then the actuator is probably at fault. In the case of the Boxster the tech told me that because one can't distinguish between a bad solenoid and actuator and the labor to do one then the other separately is essentially doing this job twice the recommendation is to replace both "while there".
However, in the case of the 996 engine my info is the solenoid can be replaced rather easily and if this is the case then one can clear the codes and road test the car and if the error comes back, or another related error appears, probably replace the actuator. This is of course more work as the camshaft cover has to come off and as with my Boxster this probably requires the rear wheels to be removed, along with the exhaust.
It is my opinion if the camshaft cover has to come off the car this is a job for a shop/tech that has loads of experience doing this. The job has some risks that if the camshaft cover isn't sealed properly there is an external oil leak, which is bad enough, but there could be an internal oil leak which could have a portion of the valve train under that camshaft cover running with insufficient oil.
And more sealant isn't the answer as this can have the excess which gets squeezed out either blocking the oil holes that transfer oil from the head to the cover or large pieces of sealant making their way to the oil sump and possibly blocking oil flow into the oil pickup screen.
This P1325 error discussion has come up for discussion before. Let me supply you with a link that you might find of some value.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-opinions.html
12-03-2016, 04:23 PM
#4
Much appreciate the replies and the links. Sounds like i need to get the car to a dealer shop with more experience. not sure they can out it back together to drive. Might have to tow.
It would be nice not to have to drop the engine. I will ask about that.
It would be nice not to have to drop the engine. I will ask about that.
12-03-2016, 06:48 PM
#6
First make sure they are troubleshooting the right bank. P1325 is BANK 2, not bank 1!
The independent shop most likely used a Durametric and P1325 will be shown as bank 1 and that's a known bug in Durametric.
P1325 can be a few things an it requires extensive diagnostic to pin point the culprit because it can be wiring, the solenoid, the actuator or the DME itself.
Check out these threads for more info so you know what to expect.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...stment-bank-1/
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...-diy-question/
The independent shop most likely used a Durametric and P1325 will be shown as bank 1 and that's a known bug in Durametric.
P1325 can be a few things an it requires extensive diagnostic to pin point the culprit because it can be wiring, the solenoid, the actuator or the DME itself.
Check out these threads for more info so you know what to expect.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...stment-bank-1/
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...-diy-question/
12-03-2016, 06:59 PM
#7
few more words ....hard to believe that it took them 3 hours to determine a solenoid replacement .With diagnostic software it's a 15 minute exercise .The fact that they blew a fuse might suggest that a wire is shorting .If it were me I would hire a flatbed and collect the parts .
Further if it is the solenoid it can be changed in the car but it ties up a lift and a lot of small shops don't want to do that .That's their money maker .
Further if it is the solenoid it can be changed in the car but it ties up a lift and a lot of small shops don't want to do that .That's their money maker .
Trending Topics
12-03-2016, 07:07 PM
#8
few more words ....hard to believe that it took them 3 hours to determine a solenoid replacement .With diagnostic software it's a 15 minute exercise .The fact that they blew a fuse might suggest that a wire is shorting .If it were me I would hire a flatbed and collect the parts .
Further if it is the solenoid it can be changed in the car but it ties up a lift and a lot of small shops don't want to do that .That's their money maker .
Further if it is the solenoid it can be changed in the car but it ties up a lift and a lot of small shops don't want to do that .That's their money maker .
12-03-2016, 07:37 PM
#9
Point taken .But this is a 2000 variocam .It's either on or off .It's been quite a while but I believe Durametric can activate each bank .If so , activate a bank with a test light or meter in series with solenoid .If voltage present then DME is working and solenoid isn't .No voltage then it gets harder .
12-03-2016, 09:09 PM
#10
First make sure they are troubleshooting the right bank. P1325 is BANK 2, not bank 1!
The independent shop most likely used a Durametric and P1325 will be shown as bank 1 and that's a known bug in Durametric.
P1325 can be a few things an it requires extensive diagnostic to pin point the culprit because it can be wiring, the solenoid, the actuator or the DME itself.
Check out these threads for more info so you know what to expect.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...stment-bank-1/
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...-diy-question/
The independent shop most likely used a Durametric and P1325 will be shown as bank 1 and that's a known bug in Durametric.
P1325 can be a few things an it requires extensive diagnostic to pin point the culprit because it can be wiring, the solenoid, the actuator or the DME itself.
Check out these threads for more info so you know what to expect.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...stment-bank-1/
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...-diy-question/
12-03-2016, 09:10 PM
#11
Point taken .But this is a 2000 variocam .It's either on or off .It's been quite a while but I believe Durametric can activate each bank .If so , activate a bank with a test light or meter in series with solenoid .If voltage present then DME is working and solenoid isn't .No voltage then it gets harder .
12-04-2016, 12:56 PM
#12
It is possible to check the variocam system is working, my Indy in the U.K. Did this to as part of my system checks after I rebuilt my engine , there were fault codes to clear and CEL from the previous failure.
Anyway basically when the engine was idling she activated the test and if it cuts out the engine it's working, firstly on one bank then the other , I'm presuming that as the variocam is activated at idle it will advance the timing and the engine can't run like that at idle, it's just used as a way to check the system, it was a Bosch system being used.
You need to go to a proper porsche only garage , doesn't have to be the dealer but if that's the only option just get the codes properly read there before you get into something with the wrong info!
The vario adjuster isn't too bad of a job, rear bumper off, backboxes and brackets to clear the valve covers, you will need the crank pin and cam timing kit with cam holding tool needed to remove the valve covers as the cover holds the cams in , there is only one internal bearing cap at the vario end and if you just remove the cover the cams can lift under tension from the timing chains and cause damage.
With crank locked and hold down tool on end of cams remove chain tensioner, bank one easy as underneath but bank 2 is hard as it's on top of the engine under the inlet etc so may need engine dropping down or taking out.
Then unbolt can pulley, the two bearing caps and the bolts holding the vario in and it all comes out together, there is a tool to relieve pressure off the vario chains which is advisable before removing hold down tool and lifting off but you can make one with a bicycle quick release skewer which is one of my older posts
Then it all comes out, it sound a lot but it's not too bad obviously it's important to re time the cams when putting back together, the sealant isn't a problem, you just need the correct nozzle to give you the right bead size so the right amount is dispensed on the mating surface, as previously said, too little and it won't seal, too much and you get excess sealant spilling out as you seal it which could get into something .
Depends how handy you are with the spanners , hope it works out main thing as Ashai said get it diagnosed properly.
Keep us updated on how you get on
While your in there you can do vario pads and hydraulic lifters too!!
Anyway basically when the engine was idling she activated the test and if it cuts out the engine it's working, firstly on one bank then the other , I'm presuming that as the variocam is activated at idle it will advance the timing and the engine can't run like that at idle, it's just used as a way to check the system, it was a Bosch system being used.
You need to go to a proper porsche only garage , doesn't have to be the dealer but if that's the only option just get the codes properly read there before you get into something with the wrong info!
The vario adjuster isn't too bad of a job, rear bumper off, backboxes and brackets to clear the valve covers, you will need the crank pin and cam timing kit with cam holding tool needed to remove the valve covers as the cover holds the cams in , there is only one internal bearing cap at the vario end and if you just remove the cover the cams can lift under tension from the timing chains and cause damage.
With crank locked and hold down tool on end of cams remove chain tensioner, bank one easy as underneath but bank 2 is hard as it's on top of the engine under the inlet etc so may need engine dropping down or taking out.
Then unbolt can pulley, the two bearing caps and the bolts holding the vario in and it all comes out together, there is a tool to relieve pressure off the vario chains which is advisable before removing hold down tool and lifting off but you can make one with a bicycle quick release skewer which is one of my older posts
Then it all comes out, it sound a lot but it's not too bad obviously it's important to re time the cams when putting back together, the sealant isn't a problem, you just need the correct nozzle to give you the right bead size so the right amount is dispensed on the mating surface, as previously said, too little and it won't seal, too much and you get excess sealant spilling out as you seal it which could get into something .
Depends how handy you are with the spanners , hope it works out main thing as Ashai said get it diagnosed properly.
Keep us updated on how you get on
While your in there you can do vario pads and hydraulic lifters too!!
12-04-2016, 01:33 PM
#13
thanks for the reply and detail! I will keep the thread posted. my thought is now to tow to a dealer to get the best service possible. I am in the Seattle/Tacoma are, Pacific Northwest. There are several independents but how dies a guy know for sure who has all the proper tools and training.
12-04-2016, 02:10 PM
#15
No probs!! I'm in the uk but I'm sure the guys on here can direct you, I'd probably stay away from the dealer other than for code reading , we'll ask them for a quote but be prepared for a large estimate!!