Why did I install an EPS Bearing??
10-12-2016, 04:06 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Cheers!
10-12-2016, 05:25 PM
#19
Drifting
I went with the EPS Bearing as well. The cost was a large factor in my decision however, I was sold on the cylindrical bearing as a reasonable option based on my experience with my KTM LC4. KTM had a issue with premature ball bearing failure on their crankshaft. The solution was replace it with a roller bearing. Here's a quick write-up.
http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...-how-to.73558/
http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...-how-to.73558/
http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...-how-to.73558/
10-12-2016, 08:21 PM
#20
Initially I went with the single-row classic LN ceramic IMSB, because at the time it was the only one available for an engine-in retrofit. When I put a remanufactured engine in I went with The Solution, because I felt it was the kind of bearing Porsche should have used from the start.
10-14-2016, 08:43 AM
#21
Drifting
I don't understand how the EPS addresses anything for you. You stated that you have a '99, which would have a dual row IMS. A dual row means double the amount of bearings to lubricate compared to a single row, yet dual row bearings appear to have a much lower failure rate than single rows. If that's the case, then I don't think it's an issue of not having enough oil. It sounds to me like it's an issue of load-bearing, or lack of that ability. All the oil oil feed in the world isn't gonna fix a load issue.
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158Sierra (09-26-2021)
10-14-2016, 09:04 AM
#22
In the UK, we use the stock bearing with the dust covers removed. the bering gets constantly covered in oil from the timing changes and no one who has done this has reported an issue.
10-14-2016, 02:21 PM
#23
A quick question for those who have installed the EPS solution themself: I'm in the middle of installing the bearing but can't for the life of me understand the instruction regarding how far to install the bearing in the shaft. The instruction say to insert the bearing until the tool bottoms out on the IMS surface, the problem is that the tool is smaller in diameter than the bearing so it can't bottom out on the IMS shaft, the bearing will, if driven far enough into the shaft, bottom out, but on the pictures I have seen it looks like the bearing should be level with the edge of the IMS shaft, any ideas?
10-14-2016, 07:00 PM
#24
911 tobbe
The tool will bottom out, the edge of the bearing does protrude slightly from the shaft so don't go whacking it to drive it further in, put the bearing in the freezer overnight to shrink it slightly, this will help it go in, don't forget to put some locktite on the outside of the bearing to fix it in place .
The tool will bottom out, the edge of the bearing does protrude slightly from the shaft so don't go whacking it to drive it further in, put the bearing in the freezer overnight to shrink it slightly, this will help it go in, don't forget to put some locktite on the outside of the bearing to fix it in place .
10-14-2016, 08:47 PM
#25
Drifting
In theory the correct bearing retaining compound/sealant/adhesive should be Loctite 609 or 603. But regular threadlocker is very similar. In the specific IMSB situation , I don't understand why a retaining compound is required unless it is a very slightly sloppy fit in the IMS tube/bearing housing -yikes !? The Blue 242 threadlocker will soften with moderate engine heat so if you are considering using it as an adhesive the correct Retaining Compound may be better. If you use Red Threadlocker instead, it needs tremendous heat to break the bond -(250 C ) Henkel has more info.
There may be a case for using Blue as a 'lubricant' when installing the bearing ?Be aware that your frozen bearing will be wet with condensation when you install it. So add a little liquid soap for lube ?Or, just follow the LN instructions - they(& Mother) know best !
There may be a case for using Blue as a 'lubricant' when installing the bearing ?Be aware that your frozen bearing will be wet with condensation when you install it. So add a little liquid soap for lube ?Or, just follow the LN instructions - they(& Mother) know best !
10-15-2016, 04:26 AM
#26
Well I should have just ignored the instructions, including skipped reading and looking at pictures of installed bearings on the web, it just made it more confusing. Drive in the bearing until you feel it bottom out, end of story. And no, my bearing does not protrude from the IMS shaft, actually it's slightly below the edge. Why other people have bearings that protrudes the shaft I don't know, different batches of bearings? Different IMS shafts?
10-15-2016, 04:01 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
10-15-2016, 07:20 PM
#28
I just mentioned the thread locker as it's in the instructions but the bearing isn't sloppy as you have to drive it in with a mallet on the special installation price which fits on the bearing and then you hit with the mallet until it bottoms out.
The bearing doesn't protrude as such but the edge of the outer bearing race should sit slightly proud of the outer ims shaft as this is the thrust control and runs against the specially designed ims flange along with oil lubrication and acts like a thrust bearing would, if you look on the EPS website at the installation process you can see the bearing they show on the installation instructions protrudes slightly also, I'm sure yours is the same if you just drove it in until it bottomed out !!
The bearing doesn't protrude as such but the edge of the outer bearing race should sit slightly proud of the outer ims shaft as this is the thrust control and runs against the specially designed ims flange along with oil lubrication and acts like a thrust bearing would, if you look on the EPS website at the installation process you can see the bearing they show on the installation instructions protrudes slightly also, I'm sure yours is the same if you just drove it in until it bottomed out !!
10-15-2016, 07:37 PM
#29
Drifting
See Page 9 here for the 'bead'(??) of threadlocker:
http://europeanpartssolution.com/wp-...ernal.IMS_.pdf
Note a different color of threadlocker is used on the flange bolts in the Instructions. In neither case is a specific part number for the threadlocker given ,even though they mention a brand - Loctite. Not saying any of this is wrong ,nor commenting on the bad spelling & syntax -just the usual sloppy writing from EPS.
Interesting to note the cut-out on the inner face of the flange for -what ? An external cam-cover oil line DOF supply like Pedro's ??
http://europeanpartssolution.com/wp-...ernal.IMS_.pdf
Note a different color of threadlocker is used on the flange bolts in the Instructions. In neither case is a specific part number for the threadlocker given ,even though they mention a brand - Loctite. Not saying any of this is wrong ,nor commenting on the bad spelling & syntax -just the usual sloppy writing from EPS.
Interesting to note the cut-out on the inner face of the flange for -what ? An external cam-cover oil line DOF supply like Pedro's ??
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 10-15-2016 at 08:26 PM.
10-15-2016, 07:50 PM
#30
Racer
Thread Starter
I just completed the install today. I will say, the instructions are basically useless. You are installing it blind which very easily could lead to installing it wrong. It also leads to lack of confidence in the installers part.
Its the little things.. but overall with gaps in the instructions filled in it went in easy.
Gaps I found:
1- instructions are from before they started including the updated flange, bolts and before they included the punch and end caps.
2- the flange and stud are different than the photos
3- the bearing tool doesn't technically bottom out... the bearing does
4- the center shaft/stud has about 1mm of fore and aft movement before you tighten it up. This is normal. Do not take the bearing out or lose sleep.
5- instructions don't really talk too much about the size of the hole you punch in the IMS cover.. it says small which is relative. I basically punched it until I felt there was a hole.. but that sucks. I have no idea how big or small the hole should be. The punch should be more refined to only allow the correct size hole.
6- thread locker install specs are misleading.
That is about it.... I feel that overall the install went well. Fingers crossed that it stands the test of time.
Its the little things.. but overall with gaps in the instructions filled in it went in easy.
Gaps I found:
1- instructions are from before they started including the updated flange, bolts and before they included the punch and end caps.
2- the flange and stud are different than the photos
3- the bearing tool doesn't technically bottom out... the bearing does
4- the center shaft/stud has about 1mm of fore and aft movement before you tighten it up. This is normal. Do not take the bearing out or lose sleep.
5- instructions don't really talk too much about the size of the hole you punch in the IMS cover.. it says small which is relative. I basically punched it until I felt there was a hole.. but that sucks. I have no idea how big or small the hole should be. The punch should be more refined to only allow the correct size hole.
6- thread locker install specs are misleading.
That is about it.... I feel that overall the install went well. Fingers crossed that it stands the test of time.