LN dual Row questions
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
LN dual Row questions
I am trying to make my final decisions on the IMS retrofit. I want a dual row so my choices are repacking/sealing and putting my old good bearing back or put the LN bearing in.
The LN bearing is shorter than the stock bearing which has a retaining clip built in. The LN kit has a spirolock to hold the bearing but no other spacers etc. In my mind this will leave a small gap between the flange and the bearing..? I bought the Pelican single kit that has a thousand spacers etc. although I have no intention of running the single.
Can anyone who has installed the LN dual row explain how the bearing stays in place? Is it just the spirolock and that's it leaving a gap? Also how does the new stud seal without there being a groove. Is it just a pressure/sandwich at the base of the stud?
i am just so overwhelmed by info and options. And since ordering the LN pelican single kit I am less sure of anything than before. Below is a borrowed image (side by side of the oem left and the LN right...
The LN bearing is shorter than the stock bearing which has a retaining clip built in. The LN kit has a spirolock to hold the bearing but no other spacers etc. In my mind this will leave a small gap between the flange and the bearing..? I bought the Pelican single kit that has a thousand spacers etc. although I have no intention of running the single.
Can anyone who has installed the LN dual row explain how the bearing stays in place? Is it just the spirolock and that's it leaving a gap? Also how does the new stud seal without there being a groove. Is it just a pressure/sandwich at the base of the stud?
i am just so overwhelmed by info and options. And since ordering the LN pelican single kit I am less sure of anything than before. Below is a borrowed image (side by side of the oem left and the LN right...
#2
Burning Brakes
You may get a lot of differing opinions on this, but mine is pretty simple. I selected the LN single to dual row retrofit and had a trusted indy shop do the work as a preventative measure. I selected the LN option as it seemed (to me) to be the most proven replacement for my 2004 single row bearing. It made no sense to me to go to the trouble to remove a proven poorly designed stock bearing, service it, and then reinstall it, and then continue to wonder about its lifespan. My understanding is that it isn't the dimension of the housing that is the important factor, but rather the use of ceramic ball bearings that have a higher level of durability. Please keep my comments in perspective, I did not do the install, but relied on a trusted shop to guide me and do the actual work. If I have presented some inaccuracies, please just ignore me.
#3
Decisions you say...
I bought a '99 c2 cab. going on 9 months ago that had 60K miles on it.
Other than a son-of-a-bitch idle issue which turned out to ultimately be a bad wire in the harness to the throttle position sensor, the car runs and looks great.
Here's the fun part...
So the first owner bought it in '99, then sold to the second owner in early 2004 with 18K miles. Second owner had the dreaded oil/coolant intermix in mid 2004 at 22K miles. It was out of warranty, but Porsche replaced the engine and only charged him for labor. Nice.
This second owner then drives the car the next 12 years until I buy it last December with 59,732 miles. That's ~3,200 miles a year and oil changes were done every 12 months with Mobil 1 0w-40 religiously. And I have all the records showing this. Along with very excellent PM and servicing records over this 12 years. So that means I know this engines history since it was put in the car and other than (splitting hairs) wishing the oil was changed every 6 months and with perhaps Joe Gibbs DT40, what is there to not to like?
I've spoken with the dealer that installed the new engine and I have the receipts listing the work, BUT, there is no way to know what IMS bearing was in the replacement engine. As most of you know the original engine most certainly had the double row in it cause it is a '99. But the replacement engine which was pulled out of inventory at Porsche and installed in 2004 has what bearing? No one knows.
So that's the decision I am left with, knowing all this...
...to replace or not to replace, that is the question....
I bought a '99 c2 cab. going on 9 months ago that had 60K miles on it.
Other than a son-of-a-bitch idle issue which turned out to ultimately be a bad wire in the harness to the throttle position sensor, the car runs and looks great.
Here's the fun part...
So the first owner bought it in '99, then sold to the second owner in early 2004 with 18K miles. Second owner had the dreaded oil/coolant intermix in mid 2004 at 22K miles. It was out of warranty, but Porsche replaced the engine and only charged him for labor. Nice.
This second owner then drives the car the next 12 years until I buy it last December with 59,732 miles. That's ~3,200 miles a year and oil changes were done every 12 months with Mobil 1 0w-40 religiously. And I have all the records showing this. Along with very excellent PM and servicing records over this 12 years. So that means I know this engines history since it was put in the car and other than (splitting hairs) wishing the oil was changed every 6 months and with perhaps Joe Gibbs DT40, what is there to not to like?
I've spoken with the dealer that installed the new engine and I have the receipts listing the work, BUT, there is no way to know what IMS bearing was in the replacement engine. As most of you know the original engine most certainly had the double row in it cause it is a '99. But the replacement engine which was pulled out of inventory at Porsche and installed in 2004 has what bearing? No one knows.
So that's the decision I am left with, knowing all this...
...to replace or not to replace, that is the question....
#4
Burning Brakes
I am trying to make my final decisions on the IMS retrofit. I want a dual row so my choices are repacking/sealing and putting my old good bearing back or put the LN bearing in.
The LN bearing is shorter than the stock bearing which has a retaining clip built in. The LN kit has a spirolock to hold the bearing but no other spacers etc. In my mind this will leave a small gap between the flange and the bearing..? I bought the Pelican single kit that has a thousand spacers etc. although I have no intention of running the single.
Can anyone who has installed the LN dual row explain how the bearing stays in place? Is it just the spirolock and that's it leaving a gap? Also how does the new stud seal without there being a groove. Is it just a pressure/sandwich at the base of the stud?
i am just so overwhelmed by info and options. And since ordering the LN pelican single kit I am less sure of anything than before. Below is a borrowed image (side by side of the oem left and the LN right...
The LN bearing is shorter than the stock bearing which has a retaining clip built in. The LN kit has a spirolock to hold the bearing but no other spacers etc. In my mind this will leave a small gap between the flange and the bearing..? I bought the Pelican single kit that has a thousand spacers etc. although I have no intention of running the single.
Can anyone who has installed the LN dual row explain how the bearing stays in place? Is it just the spirolock and that's it leaving a gap? Also how does the new stud seal without there being a groove. Is it just a pressure/sandwich at the base of the stud?
i am just so overwhelmed by info and options. And since ordering the LN pelican single kit I am less sure of anything than before. Below is a borrowed image (side by side of the oem left and the LN right...
#6
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I was hoping to gain some first hand knowledge, And a basic understanding. I do not have the option of having a shop do the work, qualify the engine or the like.
The pelican kit has some LN parts (center stud, seals, etc) and is supposedly meant to retrofit a single into a dual row car. It requires a total of 4 spacers to make this setup work. The LN dual for dual has No spacers or ring sealing spacers or anything. Yet uses the same center stud and seal? It also uses a shorter than stock bearing, so I just don't understand why one kit requires a bunch of spacers to make up the space and to make the new shaft o ring seat and the other kit uses none.
The pelican kit has some LN parts (center stud, seals, etc) and is supposedly meant to retrofit a single into a dual row car. It requires a total of 4 spacers to make this setup work. The LN dual for dual has No spacers or ring sealing spacers or anything. Yet uses the same center stud and seal? It also uses a shorter than stock bearing, so I just don't understand why one kit requires a bunch of spacers to make up the space and to make the new shaft o ring seat and the other kit uses none.
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#8
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Tough decisions to make. I'll throw one more thing in the mix - it is my understanding that once the bearing is pulled it should not be reinstalled, ever. The business of pulling out the bearing basically ruins it forever. I think you should contact Charles at LN and specifically ask him your questions. He has been very responsive both in the forums and contacted by telephone.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Tough decisions to make. I'll throw one more thing in the mix - it is my understanding that once the bearing is pulled it should not be reinstalled, ever. The business of pulling out the bearing basically ruins it forever. I think you should contact Charles at LN and specifically ask him your questions. He has been very responsive both in the forums and contacted by telephone.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Well I feel like this has some truth. Do I think the bearing problem is BS? No. Do I think that I should have left mine alone? Yes. If I could give any advice to people who may have higher miles like I do I would suggest pulling the seal off the bearing and inspecting. Prior to removing. I am now stuck trying to decide what solution I can trust for apparently the next 50k?
#12
This
The sad part is that in 5+ years the unmolested factory 996 will be worth more than those with hacks created by profiteers. Wait and see...
#13
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You're in there now, so bite the bullet, write the check and get the LN Solution(pressure lubed journal type). That's the last and best word on IMS bearings now.
While I don't fully agree with the sentiments about leaving things alone completely, I somewhat agree that a bone stock early car will have a market advantage provided the seller can prove the IMS is not headed south at time of sale. This would be a car with full flow filter, a chip detector in the drain plug, regular oil changes, and of course a full pan off inspection during PPI. I bought my 99 with full intention of ripping it down and doing the IMS within 3 months. Then, the more I thought about it, the more I was convinced that the dual row bearing with proper care will hold up. I have the full flow filter and chip detector should things go south I am guardedly optimistic that I can save the engine should the bearing fail in it's typical mode. Of course, it it explodes while under load(very rare), I'm a dead man.
While I don't fully agree with the sentiments about leaving things alone completely, I somewhat agree that a bone stock early car will have a market advantage provided the seller can prove the IMS is not headed south at time of sale. This would be a car with full flow filter, a chip detector in the drain plug, regular oil changes, and of course a full pan off inspection during PPI. I bought my 99 with full intention of ripping it down and doing the IMS within 3 months. Then, the more I thought about it, the more I was convinced that the dual row bearing with proper care will hold up. I have the full flow filter and chip detector should things go south I am guardedly optimistic that I can save the engine should the bearing fail in it's typical mode. Of course, it it explodes while under load(very rare), I'm a dead man.
#14
I'm of the attitude, if my car goes, it goes and I will buy another one that looks just like it. With that being said, I still take care of my stuff, but I'm not about to do major surgery on something with a less than 1% failure rate.
#15