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Oh, man, that sucks. Think they tried to remove it at an angle?
Aside from the IMS bearing now being boned, selling you a completely new engine for $23K because they can't fix what they broke is criminal.
If they try to charge you for the "work" they've done so far, be sure to tell them which orifice they can insert their own invoice into.
Since the engine is sitting on a workbench and not still in the car, which seems unusual for a shop that says they can't work on engines, you might inquire what exactly has been done to your car.
You may be tempted to let them do more work since your car is currently in parts in their possession. I wouldn't. If there was metal in the filter housing, you should have been contacted BEFORE they continued dicking with the car.
First of all it looks like they pushed the IMS bearing shaft into the engine so that there is nothing for the puller to screw onto. That empty hole you see in the middle of your picture should look like this. Notice the threaded stud in the middle with the slot in it? It is no longer there. That is what is needed to screw on the special puller to pull the IMS bearing. (pay no attention to the green arrow)
I am not trying to be an alarmist or upset you but this shop has make a HUGE mistake. It may or may not be able to be remedied. At the least they owe you for any work that has already been done plus the cost of another shop getting the bearing out, PLUS the cost of any damage they have done to the IMS shaft. At the most they owe you a new engine.
The pictures of the shafts that you posted above I believe to be the cam chain tensioners.
Best of luck and don't let them touch another thing. You know a good lawyer
Had them put engine back together and in the car. They left the engine oil out and coolant and removed the fuel pump fuse. Had flat bed pickup and place in my garage. I paid them 863.00 as they asked for the removal and and to put back it car so I could keep it all together for the flatbed to pickup. I didn't want to accuse anyone of anything without knowing that their assessment was incorrect. I felt it was best to be respectful and get the car home, didn't want to make enemies with my car in their possession.
Had them put engine back together and in the car. They left the engine oil out and coolant and removed the fuel pump fuse. Had flat bed pickup and place in my garage. I paid them 863.00 as they asked for the removal and and to put back it car so I could keep it all together for the flatbed to pickup. I didn't want to accuse anyone of anything without knowing that their assessment was incorrect. I felt it was best to be respectful and get the car home, didn't want to make enemies with my car in their possession.
SMART MOVE. Now document/record EVERYTHING so they cannot claim they did NOT do anything wrong. Either the tech was completely clueless and gooned the job. Or they were setting you up to sell (dump) the car for cheap.
Why the hell was the motor removed for an IMSB replacement in the first place? You now need the entire thing gone over with a fine tooth comb to make sure A) everything is still there and B) it is all connected up correctly and functioning.
Hopefully you paid their bill on a CC. If so, now that you've got the car and parts in your possession I'd be calling to file a dispute.
Jason
Tell us where your car is and other Forum members will be able to suggest a competent Indie.
You might consider calling Pedro at Pedros Garage. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/About_Us.html
Let's just say it's not clear if they had locked down the bank 1 cams, which is the most critical side as the chains are pulling on the IMSB directly. Pic shows they did lock the bank 2 cams. HOWEVER, you cannot use two identical regular cam tools to lock both banks simultaneously.
I would like to find a place closer to me here in Vero Beach. I toke it to a place in Martin County. I'm not looking to pursue suing or disparaging anyone, i'm a easy going guy that just want to get back to driving it with my wife on the weekends (we bought it for fun to relive our youth LOL). She had (2) 356's and was a 911 guy in the 80's. I probably should have stayed with the air cooled models, But when i saw the 996 interior (MK1) I really liked it a lot. Even with the new ones, I still like the 996 interior most of all. I have read good things on here about the L N upgrade bearing and wanted to upgrade to that if possible.
I have to say all of you have been incredible, It is rare to see such a nice bunch of people these days. Thank You very much to the reenlist 996 community!
But when i saw the 996 interior (MK1) I really liked it a lot. ... snip ... I have to say all of you have been incredible, It is rare to see such a nice bunch of people these days. Thank You very much to the reenlist 996 community!
Two things never uttered before in history (especially together!)
Definitely recommend taking the car to someone that knows these engines and the IMSB process as well. From the pics you posted its hard to say anything definitive except the center stud isn't where we'd expect it to be (coming out of the flange). I've read they can pull off when trying to extract the bearing and its not the end of the world. However you would remove the flange prior to pulling the bearing with the stud, so I'm having trouble understanding that sequence of events. The other picture you showed is of the timing chain tensioner. They should have removed at least 2 in order to pull the bearing - so does the pic of only one indicate they didn't remove the second? Its all speculation - you need to have someone qualified check things over and then you'll know exactly what you're dealing with.
08-03-2016, 04:49 PM
