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Here's hoping it all goes well. The left tailpipe is bank 2, the right side of the engine cylinders 4-6, AND where the AOS breather hose attaches. So it's possible your AOS diaphragm blew and dumped a bunch of coolant in the engine and locked it up. It will be interesting to see what you find.
Hello, so here is a better picture of my engine drop rig.
Basically it's home improvement store alternative to buying a motorcycle jack.
Btw, if you have one or have access to one, use it,. I did not want to invest in one so this is a 15$ alternative. Works like charm and I did a few drops and reinstalls, alone, without any issues.
--------------------My little write up----------------------------
I prefer to work with a car jacked up to a minimum height necessary while I disconnect everything and raise it higher when the engine is lowered. Simply rolling on ramps is enough to do most of the work. When I put the rear on stands I use more than just two stands in the back. I always put wheels underneath and even pile up some 2x8 on it. It's just me but I prefer two have more safety.
1. Once everything is disconnected in a proper way (there are guides for that ) , disconnect the transmission from the body and lower it on a spare jack stand using a jack. Let it hang in there.
2. Attach this rig to a proper 2.5 ton automotive jack, you need to remove the saddle and bolt it tight. Don't use it if you can not properly bolt it to the jack. Place it under the the sump plate, eye ball it to be as centered as possible. Remove two engine mount nuts and lower everything.
3. Here is where you still need a SECOND jack. You need to lower the transmission from that jack stand onto some sort of a trolley - I use a small snowmobile trolley, comes in package of 3 and cost 25$.
If you don't have access to a second jack - my rig can be lowered onto two small jack stands, and then you can disconnect the rig from the jack and use it .
4. Assuming you have 2 jacks and you have the engine lowered to the maximum and tranny on a trolley, using your second jack, you need to raise the car up sufficiently to clear the engine from under. It will roll just fine and the trolley helps a lot.
TIP - to raise the car sufficiently, you need a good solid jack and some sort of an extension. Amazon and eBay sells 4" extensions, I simply got one done at a local machining place. They turned it out of plain metal cylinder.
Thanks very much - very useful info. I have already ordered a floor transmission jack which will do a great job on the transmission itself and to be honest I may well remove that separately anyway this weekend. The car is on 77k miles and on the original clutch so it would be silly not to change this regardless.
I also have one good 3 tonne jack along with stands and numerous Honda scissor jacks - I'm a honda nut - should have stuck with them instread
A jack extension is an interesting idea and something I will definitely look into getting. Hopefully tonight I will get the car towed to my little workshop. Doing it myself will save a little more money towards sorting this engine.
Just as AWDGuy said, Because that thing is heaavvy, unless you'll be doing it on a hoist, with a proper transmission jack and another one to hold the engine in place.
It's still a bit PITA to put it back on even when the thing is on the floor and the engine sits right next to it.
In your case, your problem is the engine, so why would you pull the tranny off first anyway?
Reason being that I thought it may be easier to take them out in 2 parts as I wont be using a lift for the very reason that they weigh so much but from what you've all said, it probably doesnt make sense to do it this way.
I have a proper 150kg transmission jack and I have a huge mobile engine hoist.
So I successfully managed to tow the car 9 miles down the twisty country roads last night and its happily tucked up in my little workshop perfectly positioned ready for the next stage.
Feeling happier about things already - at least its safe and out the way.
OK so its update time. Not particularly pleasant unfortunately but at least I've made progress.
So I dropped the oil and about 5 litres of coolant came pouring out first so I think thats the give away that its cracked a liner. That would also explain the sudden burst of smoke - or steam as it appears to have been.
Dropped the sump and there is a lot of metal in there. A threaded section which can only be the bottom of one of the rods, some chunky bits of cast metal which could well be liner and some very very thin metal which looks like some kind of shield thats been torn apart. Its way too thin to be anything significant.
To me it looks like a liner has let go, effectively hydrolocked a cylinder and broken the rod but I wont know more now until I pull the engine apart. I'm still hopeful that new liners and some internals will see this engine back better than it was before. I've now started work on pulling the engine from the car.
Pictures here so please let me know your thoughts.
My plan will be to have this engine re-worked as opposed to getting hold of a new engine. I will have the original (most likely broken) liners bored out with complete replacements fitted - will still work out cheaper than buying another engine. The other benefit being I know its been done properly as opposed to buying a second hand engine which I have no knowledge of and no guarantees. A new engine (as in brand new) is not an option.
07-26-2016, 08:49 AM
