docmirror

So, that's interesting but was it a yes or no on the full flow conversion I mentioned?

mayday1

the oil report arrived today, it says the level of lead is a bit high,
but everything else is ok (see comments in the picture).

Ignoring my worn chain rails for a moment, I sent for analysis to
tell whether or not the IMS bearing is potentially a problem. Do
we know if lead content is an indication of the condition of the
ball bearings in the IMSB?

mayday1

Does anyone know how I can crank the engine without starting it? Like disable the
fuel pump/injection and ignition? I reassembled the oil pan tonight and will fill the
crankcase with oil and want to crank it a bunch to see if there are more plastic bits
going into the oil filter, but don't want to actually start the engine.

Thanks

Ahsai

You can remove fuse c4 to disable the fuel pump. However, the oil pump won't build much pressure with cranking speed.

mayday1

Thanks ahsai! I know I won't do much with oil pressure from cranking.
But I want to:
1) crank and get some oil on the chain pads and everywhere else since the engine has
been dry for two weeks.

2) I'll crank it without starting for a few days and check my oil filter
again to see if it traps any more plastic bits. If there are plastic
bits in the engine still I rather have them move to the filter at cranking
speed rather than at engine running speed.

You previously mentioned durametric cam timing check. Can you elaborate
on that? Is that something I can ask an indy shop to do?

thanks

Ahsai

Yes, an indy shop should be able to check that as long as they have the Porsche specific scanner such as Durametric.

There's a real-time value under the DME section called cam deviation in degrees of crankshaft angle. It should be 0 degree +/- 6 degrees for both banks when read after engine is completely warmed up. The value should be rock solid at all engine revs.

Thanks,
Duncan

mayday1

hi duncan,

sorry for being dense. Where are the fuses in this car? I couldn't find them
last night.

Ideally if I can crank the car with a remote starter switch, that will be great.
Is there a lead on the starter relay that I can hook up a remote starter switch
between +12V and this lead that I can just crank the car without firing
the fuelpump, injectors, and sparkplugs, and possibly confuse the computer
thinking something is wrong?

thanks

Ahsai

The fuses are at the driver's side kick panel. You can hot wire the starter at the starter relay under the left rear parcel shelf.

DBJoe996

You could hook up a remote starter switch by attaching one lead to the 12V jumper terminal in the engine bay and the starter solenoid post (little post). That should kick the starter over as long as it has the 12V supply (big wire). It will be difficult to reach in there to connect with the TB and other stuff in the way, unless that is still off the engine. Never tried it but in theory it should work.

Ahsai

Exactly why I suggested the starter relay, which is easier to get to

mayday1

I think a push button remote starter switch and a single pole double throw
switch mounted somewhere near the engine bay would work great.

The starter's start pin (the thinner wire) goes to the pole, and one of the
throw is the original connection, the other goes to the remote starter
switch. The other end of the remote starter switch goes to +12V.

This way when selecting the remote starter switch, only the starter
is energised, none of the car's electronic needs to know, and the clutch
switch isn't even in the picture. When the switch selects the original circuit,
the remote starter switch is out of the picture.

mayday1

I buttoned up the oil pan, and drove to visit a couple of indy shops.
One shop suggested that I make an appointment to do a cam deviation test,
but he says if deviation is >6degrees (ideally no more than 1-2 degrees),
he can't do anything about it since he doesn't rebuild water cool engines.
He says if it is due to the variocam pads wear he may be able to do something
but I wonder how we can tell where the plastic bits are from.

I just came back from another shop. He also suggested I make an appointment next week to check cam deviation, and he also doesn't
rebuild engines. He says he suspect there are probably small bits
of plastic in every 996 oil pan, and he told me my engine sounds nice
and smooth, though the tranny has some strange noises that needs to
be looked into. He suggested to check the tranny oil for metal bits.

While driving on the highway to this shop, the car was making that same
funny noise I reported on my first drive right after I picked up the
car a few weeks ago. This was
taking an uphill exit ramp, 5th gear, at no to light throttle transition.
I now suspect the noise is not from the engine, but the tranny.
The previous owner says he occasionally got a noise after he
put in a lighter flywheel (instead of the original dual-mass) and a new clutch
that he thought it was some sort of resonance from the flywheel.
My tranny is quiet until it is fully warmed up then it makes random
noises.

Sorry for the long winded reply. I guess I'll have to wait for the
cam deviation test before I know more.

Ahsai

Please, whatever you do, don't bring it to a shop that's not specialized in 996s...not even for an oil change, let alone anything timing related.

Warehouse33.net

A lightened flywheel should only make noise with the clutch out at idle. People describe it as a box of marble noise.

-Jason

mayday1

Took the car in to the mechanic to get the cam timing deviation checked.
It showed 0.0 on both banks. The mechanics gathered around and
said that is not a believable number since they've never seen 0.0 in any car.
I told them I unplugged a few fuses when I cranked the car after it sat
without oil for a couple of weeks. They wonder if somehow that cleared
the deviation. But it did show voltage faults and injector faults in all
cylinders (because injector fuses were pulled).

It also showed range1 overrevs of about 4000 about 16 operating hours
ago. I guess the previous owner or someone test drove the car and
overreved it. No range2 overrevs. 3010hours total.

I'll drive it for a couple hundred miles and go back to get the cam deviation
check to see if we get a proper reading.