Picked up a 996 this morning, now what?
06-19-2016, 11:10 PM
#121
Gr8 Info
First off congrats on the new ride and just like everyone else we want to see pics lol... I was in a very similar situation as you about 6 months ago. I purchased my 2001 996 C2 with 74k miles. I got a PPI which was a complete waste because they told me many things were wrong that I found out later there were no issues at all so you saved money there. Here is what I did right away....
1. LN engineering IMS bearing along with RMS seal. Oil change had filter cut open to check for debris. Replaced all fluids and flushed system.
2. Clutch was replaced. Spark plugs replaced. You have a 1999 so you have Variocam wear pads just like me that they did away with after 2000 but you will need to do them. They deteriorate and can end up in your oil and cause hot spots that leads to a cracked head. Water pump was replaced and also a LN low thermostat temp was put in.
3. Timing was checked as well as any "stretch" in the chains (you have 5 by the way). Drive belt was replaced.
3. AOS (air oil separator) was replaced which is extremely important.
I remember being freaked out with everyone telling you are driving a ticking time bomb and everything else but what I have learned is stick with your service intervals, listen for engine noises and hangs your oil every 5k miles at a shop that knows these cars. Lastly drive it as much as you possibly can the more the better for these engines and for you lol.
If you are in the Los Angeles area I can send you to a shop that I trust with my life. Hope that helps now get us so pics already.
1. LN engineering IMS bearing along with RMS seal. Oil change had filter cut open to check for debris. Replaced all fluids and flushed system.
2. Clutch was replaced. Spark plugs replaced. You have a 1999 so you have Variocam wear pads just like me that they did away with after 2000 but you will need to do them. They deteriorate and can end up in your oil and cause hot spots that leads to a cracked head. Water pump was replaced and also a LN low thermostat temp was put in.
3. Timing was checked as well as any "stretch" in the chains (you have 5 by the way). Drive belt was replaced.
3. AOS (air oil separator) was replaced which is extremely important.
I remember being freaked out with everyone telling you are driving a ticking time bomb and everything else but what I have learned is stick with your service intervals, listen for engine noises and hangs your oil every 5k miles at a shop that knows these cars. Lastly drive it as much as you possibly can the more the better for these engines and for you lol.
If you are in the Los Angeles area I can send you to a shop that I trust with my life. Hope that helps now get us so pics already.
06-20-2016, 01:49 PM
#122
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Took my car to the indy shop again this morning to having the cam deviation checked.
They were still getting 0.0 on both banks, revving the engine didn't make a different.
The guys were stumped. I wonder if my DME was running something funky software,
or if the dealer replaced it with something different when they replaced the engine 11 yrs
ago.
They were still getting 0.0 on both banks, revving the engine didn't make a different.
The guys were stumped. I wonder if my DME was running something funky software,
or if the dealer replaced it with something different when they replaced the engine 11 yrs
ago.
06-20-2016, 04:13 PM
#123
You may want to try another shop or scanner such as durametric.
Could they read the actual cam angle, which is rev dependent?
Could they read the actual cam angle, which is rev dependent?
Took my car to the indy shop again this morning to having the cam deviation checked.
They were still getting 0.0 on both banks, revving the engine didn't make a different.
The guys were stumped. I wonder if my DME was running something funky software,
or if the dealer replaced it with something different when they replaced the engine 11 yrs
ago.
They were still getting 0.0 on both banks, revving the engine didn't make a different.
The guys were stumped. I wonder if my DME was running something funky software,
or if the dealer replaced it with something different when they replaced the engine 11 yrs
ago.
06-21-2016, 04:48 AM
#124
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I may have to find another shop or someone in the SF bay area
with a durametric to get a cam deviation reading :-(
I know they could at least read idle rpm, ignition timing (4.5 to 5.5 degrees
during idle), ..etc.
with a durametric to get a cam deviation reading :-(
I know they could at least read idle rpm, ignition timing (4.5 to 5.5 degrees
during idle), ..etc.
06-21-2016, 03:44 PM
#125
Rennlist Member
Are you in North Bay?
I want to buy a Durametric but don't own any Windows PCs...
06-21-2016, 04:17 PM
#126
06-21-2016, 05:16 PM
#127
06-21-2016, 05:42 PM
#128
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06-28-2016, 09:54 PM
#129
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What's the point of the compression test? You bought it - so do whatever maintenance needs to be done and enjoy driving it.
I advise you to limit your forum reading to 20 minutes a day for the first year. Otherwise, you're going to spend all your money replacing the sh*t that isn't broken, and you won't have any left to fix the sh*t you actually break.
I advise you to limit your forum reading to 20 minutes a day for the first year. Otherwise, you're going to spend all your money replacing the sh*t that isn't broken, and you won't have any left to fix the sh*t you actually break.