Picked up a 996 this morning, now what?
05-06-2016, 10:38 AM
#46
05-06-2016, 01:12 PM
#49
Three Wheelin'
Oil you say? Are we talking about oil? 
Joe Gibbs DT40 or stick with Porsche approved engine oil. I would also stick with Porsche approved coolant and gear oil. You could spends weeks reading the posts debating these subjects but I think the systems supported by those three (engine, engine cooling, trans) are worth the extra cost and trusting Porsche engineers. Sure they have dropped the ball on occasion, but overall I think Porsche engineers tend to go with high quality fluids with some solid reasoning supporting their choices. 
Joe Gibbs DT40 or stick with Porsche approved engine oil. I would also stick with Porsche approved coolant and gear oil. You could spends weeks reading the posts debating these subjects but I think the systems supported by those three (engine, engine cooling, trans) are worth the extra cost and trusting Porsche engineers. Sure they have dropped the ball on occasion, but overall I think Porsche engineers tend to go with high quality fluids with some solid reasoning supporting their choices.
05-06-2016, 05:50 PM
#50
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I didn't care what brand or flavor of oil, just not a 20wt. I'm no fan of Mobil 1, but it's rated by Porsche for this model in the proper weight(kinematic viscosity).
05-08-2016, 04:00 AM
#51
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Woke up early this morning antsy to drive this new (to me) car since I haven't touched it
in the three days that I've owned it. I thought I drive it around a bit, get used to its feel
and sounds, and then do an oil change afterwards.
But it started raining, so I changed the oil on the miata instead since it was already up
on the lift. I didn't even bother to warm up the oil since I last drove it a few weeks ago.
By late afternoon the rain stopped and I fired up the car and went to pick up a buddy
who wanted to check it out and we went for a drive. When cold the shifting
was a bit reluctant, the clutch was a bit grabby, the engine seems to have a little
miss when idling. But it all cleared after a few miles. The car felt really sure footed
in curvy roads, at 6 tenth the car felt like it has a lot more grip than a normal street tires.
This is wearing four year old Hankook v12 evos, the worst tire I've ever bought when I
had them on a mazda 3 FWD.
After about 40 miles we stopped for gas and turned around. Within a few miles the car
suddenly started making a funny noise, as if something was grinding, or as if the floorboard
disappeared and you can hear the road noise. This noise was louder when I gave it a little
gas, and disappeared when I lift. My immediate reaction was my IMS bearing must have
given up the ghost, or the pistons were scraping the cylinders, or any other ailment that I
have yet to ead in these forums. But I didn't pull over since it was on a mountain road
with no place to pull over, and traffic was fairly heavy but smooth flowing. I also thought
it could also be wheel bearings or worn brake pads scraping since the road was curvy, and my oil pressure and coolant temps
were fine, a clock symbol warning light lit up on the dash. The car felt normal otherwise. My buddy was busy googling what
could be wrong on his phone and told me that light was for cruise control, I was driving normally but was wondering if this was to be the shortest
and most expensive car ownership I've ever experienced.
Cutting to the chase, once the mountain road straighten out and we were on level ground,
the noise disappeared, and everything was normal. I was asking my friend if he thought we
were really doing 87mph when it felt so calm and serene inside, we concluded that the digital
speedometer must be way off. We couldn't be going much faster than 70mph.
When I got home, I connected the OBDII reader, and it found no pending fault. Oil level
at the dipstick was fine, oil smelled fine.
The tire pressure was 24psi LF, 20psi RF, 30psi LR and RR. I pumped them up to 35psi front and 41psi rear
(I think that was the numbers printed on the hood). I have the standard 225-40-18 and 265-35-18.
The puzzling question remains, did I suffer any engine failure? Are there electric fans in the front
radiators? I wonder if they were making that scrapping noise when they kicked in during that uphill
climb.
More investigation tomorrow, I'll do the oil change, check the oil filter for metal bits, and send
some sample to Blackstone for analysis. In the meantime, what do you guys think happened?
in the three days that I've owned it. I thought I drive it around a bit, get used to its feel
and sounds, and then do an oil change afterwards.
But it started raining, so I changed the oil on the miata instead since it was already up
on the lift. I didn't even bother to warm up the oil since I last drove it a few weeks ago.
By late afternoon the rain stopped and I fired up the car and went to pick up a buddy
who wanted to check it out and we went for a drive. When cold the shifting
was a bit reluctant, the clutch was a bit grabby, the engine seems to have a little
miss when idling. But it all cleared after a few miles. The car felt really sure footed
in curvy roads, at 6 tenth the car felt like it has a lot more grip than a normal street tires.
This is wearing four year old Hankook v12 evos, the worst tire I've ever bought when I
had them on a mazda 3 FWD.
After about 40 miles we stopped for gas and turned around. Within a few miles the car
suddenly started making a funny noise, as if something was grinding, or as if the floorboard
disappeared and you can hear the road noise. This noise was louder when I gave it a little
gas, and disappeared when I lift. My immediate reaction was my IMS bearing must have
given up the ghost, or the pistons were scraping the cylinders, or any other ailment that I
have yet to ead in these forums. But I didn't pull over since it was on a mountain road
with no place to pull over, and traffic was fairly heavy but smooth flowing. I also thought
it could also be wheel bearings or worn brake pads scraping since the road was curvy, and my oil pressure and coolant temps
were fine, a clock symbol warning light lit up on the dash. The car felt normal otherwise. My buddy was busy googling what
could be wrong on his phone and told me that light was for cruise control, I was driving normally but was wondering if this was to be the shortest
and most expensive car ownership I've ever experienced.
Cutting to the chase, once the mountain road straighten out and we were on level ground,
the noise disappeared, and everything was normal. I was asking my friend if he thought we
were really doing 87mph when it felt so calm and serene inside, we concluded that the digital
speedometer must be way off. We couldn't be going much faster than 70mph.
When I got home, I connected the OBDII reader, and it found no pending fault. Oil level
at the dipstick was fine, oil smelled fine.
The tire pressure was 24psi LF, 20psi RF, 30psi LR and RR. I pumped them up to 35psi front and 41psi rear
(I think that was the numbers printed on the hood). I have the standard 225-40-18 and 265-35-18.
The puzzling question remains, did I suffer any engine failure? Are there electric fans in the front
radiators? I wonder if they were making that scrapping noise when they kicked in during that uphill
climb.
More investigation tomorrow, I'll do the oil change, check the oil filter for metal bits, and send
some sample to Blackstone for analysis. In the meantime, what do you guys think happened?
05-08-2016, 10:55 AM
#54
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I was definitely taking a risk when I took the plunge without a PPI or looking for a carfax, but it drove nicely during my short test drive, and I put it up on a lift
and the undercarriage looked clean and without leaks.
It had its engine replaced by the porsche dealer 11yrs/40K miles ago.
Things I plan to do in the very near future:
1) Change the oil (previous owner has been using mobile 1 0W-40, thinking
of changing to a thicker weight like 20W-50), tear apart the filter cartridge
and look for metal bits, send sample to blackstone for analysis. Probably
do that for every subsequent oil change.
2) Go over the maintenance paperwork to see if coolant, tranny fluid, or brake
fluid needs flushing.
3) Do a compression check and replace the spark plugs while at it.
Owner mentioned he replaced a couple plugs years ago but gave up
cause the others were too difficult to reach and the old plugs looked fine.
Is compression test an easy DIY job or should I have a shop do it?
4) Replace IMS and RMS next time I do the clutch. But the clutch was
replaced four years (10K miles) ago so it may be a long while. Especially
since I seem to be very easy on clutches.
5) Repair any annoying electrical issues.
6) Read this forum as much as possible to learn about the 996 issues and
porsches in general.
What else should I worry about? I don't have a special plan for this car,
but want do a couple of PCA autox to learn how to handle a rear engine
RWD car, and may be a day or two of DE if I feel comfortable with the car.
Oh yes, I joined PCA this morning as well.
and the undercarriage looked clean and without leaks.
It had its engine replaced by the porsche dealer 11yrs/40K miles ago.
Things I plan to do in the very near future:
1) Change the oil (previous owner has been using mobile 1 0W-40, thinking
of changing to a thicker weight like 20W-50), tear apart the filter cartridge
and look for metal bits, send sample to blackstone for analysis. Probably
do that for every subsequent oil change.
2) Go over the maintenance paperwork to see if coolant, tranny fluid, or brake
fluid needs flushing.
3) Do a compression check and replace the spark plugs while at it.
Owner mentioned he replaced a couple plugs years ago but gave up
cause the others were too difficult to reach and the old plugs looked fine.
Is compression test an easy DIY job or should I have a shop do it?
4) Replace IMS and RMS next time I do the clutch. But the clutch was
replaced four years (10K miles) ago so it may be a long while. Especially
since I seem to be very easy on clutches.
5) Repair any annoying electrical issues.
6) Read this forum as much as possible to learn about the 996 issues and
porsches in general.
What else should I worry about? I don't have a special plan for this car,
but want do a couple of PCA autox to learn how to handle a rear engine
RWD car, and may be a day or two of DE if I feel comfortable with the car.
Oh yes, I joined PCA this morning as well.
First off congrats on the new ride and just like everyone else we want to see pics lol... I was in a very similar situation as you about 6 months ago. I purchased my 2001 996 C2 with 74k miles. I got a PPI which was a complete waste because they told me many things were wrong that I found out later there were no issues at all so you saved money there. Here is what I did right away....
1. LN engineering IMS bearing along with RMS seal. Oil change had filter cut open to check for debris. Replaced all fluids and flushed system.
2. Clutch was replaced. Spark plugs replaced. You have a 1999 so you have Variocam wear pads just like me that they did away with after 2000 but you will need to do them. They deteriorate and can end up in your oil and cause hot spots that leads to a cracked head. Water pump was replaced and also a LN low thermostat temp was put in.
3. Timing was checked as well as any "stretch" in the chains (you have 5 by the way). Drive belt was replaced.
3. AOS (air oil separator) was replaced which is extremely important.
I remember being freaked out with everyone telling you are driving a ticking time bomb and everything else but what I have learned is stick with your service intervals, listen for engine noises and hangs your oil every 5k miles at a shop that knows these cars. Lastly drive it as much as you possibly can the more the better for these engines and for you lol.
If you are in the Los Angeles area I can send you to a shop that I trust with my life. Hope that helps now get us so pics already.
05-08-2016, 10:59 AM
#55
Rennlist Member
Recommended tire pressures for 18" are 36 front and 44 rear. I generally run a couple lb less for better ride quality.
Agree that the noise could be a wheel bearing. Recently had to replace one and the symptoms were similar for me.
Agree that the noise could be a wheel bearing. Recently had to replace one and the symptoms were similar for me.
05-08-2016, 01:41 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
Your thought about it being the cooling fan isn't too bad IMO. Came on while climbing the mountain and shut off when you got to flat and level. Since you should probably clean the debris behind the A/C condenser anyway, you could test the radiator fan while you are there. Or, I understand the fan should run any time the A/C is on so you could just do that and listen for your noise.
05-08-2016, 05:17 PM
#57
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I ran the A/C and there was no funny noise, so may be it wasn't the fan :-(
Drove it about ten miles this morning to get ready for an oil change, and there was
no funny noises from the car, no check engine light, everything seemed normal.
Now I'll see if I figure out how to post some pictures..
Drove it about ten miles this morning to get ready for an oil change, and there was
no funny noises from the car, no check engine light, everything seemed normal.
Now I'll see if I figure out how to post some pictures..
05-08-2016, 08:05 PM
#58
Rennlist Member
Wow! That's an ultra clean looking engine :-) The exhaust manifolds look almost new ! those must be the cleanest 40k miles ever 
05-08-2016, 08:53 PM
#59
Very clean indeed. I only spotted some oil sweating/stain on the passenger side cylinder head. You may want to check the AOS vent hose connection there (below the a/c compressor). The airbox needs to be removed to access that area.
05-08-2016, 09:17 PM
#60
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You guys must be in the snow area. Typical california cars
have clean undercarriage. My ten year old mazda with also about 80K
miles is still shiny everywhere underneath. That is probably why california
cars fetch a little more in the 2nd hand market, they're much easier to work
on since the bolts are not rusted together.
This one is a couple weeks shy of 18 yrs old, but the engine is 11 yrs old.
Took advantage of mothers' day sale at Harbour Freight and picked up
a 6 gallon oil collection thingy, now oil change is a breeze. Wish I did
that yesterday when I was also changing the oil on the miata.
Unfortunately I couldn't finish the oil change. The mahle filter cartridge has a smaller
inner diameter than the old one, and the drain plug washer is too large.
Need to order another filter, drain plug washer, and may be a new drain
plug since my 8mm allen socket feels loose inside and the plug was so
tight I need a breaker bar to undo. Unless the drainplug needs a 9mm
allen socket?
Tomorrow I'll cut open the paper filter to examine for metal bits, and
I'll send in the oil sample for analysis.
Enough work for one day.
have clean undercarriage. My ten year old mazda with also about 80K
miles is still shiny everywhere underneath. That is probably why california
cars fetch a little more in the 2nd hand market, they're much easier to work
on since the bolts are not rusted together.
This one is a couple weeks shy of 18 yrs old, but the engine is 11 yrs old.
Took advantage of mothers' day sale at Harbour Freight and picked up
a 6 gallon oil collection thingy, now oil change is a breeze. Wish I did
that yesterday when I was also changing the oil on the miata.
Unfortunately I couldn't finish the oil change. The mahle filter cartridge has a smaller
inner diameter than the old one, and the drain plug washer is too large.
Need to order another filter, drain plug washer, and may be a new drain
plug since my 8mm allen socket feels loose inside and the plug was so
tight I need a breaker bar to undo. Unless the drainplug needs a 9mm
allen socket?
Tomorrow I'll cut open the paper filter to examine for metal bits, and
I'll send in the oil sample for analysis.
Enough work for one day.