How to keep the engine cool / protect it during track days/driver training events
10-19-2015, 06:45 PM
#16
Although I only got the idea to use 10w-60 from someone else (who should know what he is talking about), it seemed to make sense to me because it is recommended for some engines that rev higher than ours, so I assumed that if one is keeping the engine at high revs on track, it could work for our engines too. But I gather that while there are plusses to moving in this direction, there are also minuses. How do I know 5w-50 isn't also too high? (Or low?) Has someone somehow really determined that this (or some other oil grade) is the best?
10-19-2015, 06:54 PM
#17
The car is not intended for track use, so in doing so you are using it in a way that brings with it risk.
...
A very simple protection against damaging the engine due to too high coolant or oil temperature is to observe the temperature creeping up and back off or call the session to a halt and let the engine idle for a while in the pits to shed its considerable heat load.
...
A very simple protection against damaging the engine due to too high coolant or oil temperature is to observe the temperature creeping up and back off or call the session to a halt and let the engine idle for a while in the pits to shed its considerable heat load.
Also, I assume that even better than letting the engine idle is to drive around at low engine speeds and low throttle openings, keeping air moving through the radiator and maybe engine bay, no? Well, it works for brakes ... .
This is similar to the first option I listed - do a cool down lap after every 3 laps. Can one confidently do a track day before making any mods, provided one observes this rule?
Last edited by rs10; 10-19-2015 at 07:09 PM.
10-19-2015, 07:04 PM
#18
10-19-2015, 09:04 PM
#19
Join Date: May 2010
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Unless you are planning on driving in Nevada, during the summer heat, or maybe Alabama in the summer heat and humidity, I don't think you will really need to do any mods for additional engine cooling.
AOS=air oil separator. Smoking on start-up is a well known/well discussed issue. You can do a search in here and get a wealth of info.
As for a deep sump oil pan and proper, X-51 baffle (which you wont' really need until you are running very sticky tires and are really traveling with some serious speed (in the corners, i.e, upper run groups)....I suggest that you check with Suncoast, for parts.
As suggested, during the high temps and humidity of mid-late summer, keep an eye on your gauge, also make sure your auxiliary fan is working, too, once you shut the car off.
Fresh oil always helps, how often you want to change it, depends on your budget.
Otherwise, you should be all set. If you have maintained the car well, and continue to do so, you shouldn't have too do much for the car to run like a champ. Like I said b4, mine had been bulletproof. I would strongly suggest you find a good indie shop, they will be extremely helpful to you. GL and have fun.
AOS=air oil separator. Smoking on start-up is a well known/well discussed issue. You can do a search in here and get a wealth of info.
As for a deep sump oil pan and proper, X-51 baffle (which you wont' really need until you are running very sticky tires and are really traveling with some serious speed (in the corners, i.e, upper run groups)....I suggest that you check with Suncoast, for parts.
As suggested, during the high temps and humidity of mid-late summer, keep an eye on your gauge, also make sure your auxiliary fan is working, too, once you shut the car off.
Fresh oil always helps, how often you want to change it, depends on your budget.
Otherwise, you should be all set. If you have maintained the car well, and continue to do so, you shouldn't have too do much for the car to run like a champ. Like I said b4, mine had been bulletproof. I would strongly suggest you find a good indie shop, they will be extremely helpful to you. GL and have fun.
10-20-2015, 12:34 PM
#21
10-20-2015, 12:44 PM
#22
For an auto cross car , the oil , Evans coolant and the low temp thermostat would be both prudent and fairly economical,
The next upgrade after that, when funds allowed , I would add the deep sump
10-20-2015, 06:02 PM
#23
10-20-2015, 07:41 PM
#24
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I think that Macster can give you a much better answer than I on this one. If the AOS picks up a lot of oil, your engine will then be breathing in some oil, hence the smoking on start-up. It does go away, but ingesting oil, in the air intake isn't good for the long haul. I;m sure it will cause other issues, over time.
10-20-2015, 07:55 PM
#25
Race Director
Ingesting oil is bad for the catalytic converters. Ingesting a LOT of oil can hydrolock piston(s), which is bad for the wallet (although the condition will definitely eliminate your cooling concerns). If you're concerned, Google "motorsport AOS" or ask your Indie.
10-21-2015, 12:29 AM
#26
Drifting
10-21-2015, 02:49 PM
#27
Instructor
Here's my two cents - don't worry about it, the engine will be fine. I know that the 996 wasn't designed for the track, as someone has mentioned earlier, but that doesn't mean it can't handle the work. Most cars you see out there aside from Radicals and Atoms etc weren't designed for the track.
I've driven at more than my share of hot track days (105 degrees at Lime Rock...) and the car never complained. I've only seen the temp gauge go higher than the zero I think one time. And depending on the tire, you should be fine with oil starvation. Anything below a Cup and you're safe as-is. If there's some serious banking on your track, or if you have some stickier tires you may want to get the X51 pan. And don't open the engine cover in the paddock. The fan is in there for a reason.
As far as brakes go, the stock rotors have been proven by others to work fine. If you start to get a rumble, then you should probably take an easy lap. Pagids plus some bigger front rotors plus good fluid will be able to handle anything you could conceivably throw at that car. And if that doesn't work, then the GT2 ducts should do the job.
Unlike some here, I would be perfectly comfortable driving a bone stock 996 on track with PS2s, Super Sports, Star Specs, etc. The only issue on a hot day is the driver - drink plenty of water!
I've driven at more than my share of hot track days (105 degrees at Lime Rock...) and the car never complained. I've only seen the temp gauge go higher than the zero I think one time. And depending on the tire, you should be fine with oil starvation. Anything below a Cup and you're safe as-is. If there's some serious banking on your track, or if you have some stickier tires you may want to get the X51 pan. And don't open the engine cover in the paddock. The fan is in there for a reason.
As far as brakes go, the stock rotors have been proven by others to work fine. If you start to get a rumble, then you should probably take an easy lap. Pagids plus some bigger front rotors plus good fluid will be able to handle anything you could conceivably throw at that car. And if that doesn't work, then the GT2 ducts should do the job.
Unlike some here, I would be perfectly comfortable driving a bone stock 996 on track with PS2s, Super Sports, Star Specs, etc. The only issue on a hot day is the driver - drink plenty of water!
10-21-2015, 10:33 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Here's my two cents - don't worry about it, the engine will be fine. I know that the 996 wasn't designed for the track, as someone has mentioned earlier, but that doesn't mean it can't handle the work. Most cars you see out there aside from Radicals and Atoms etc weren't designed for the track.
I've driven at more than my share of hot track days (105 degrees at Lime Rock...) and the car never complained. I've only seen the temp gauge go higher than the zero I think one time. And depending on the tire, you should be fine with oil starvation. Anything below a Cup and you're safe as-is. If there's some serious banking on your track, or if you have some stickier tires you may want to get the X51 pan. And don't open the engine cover in the paddock. The fan is in there for a reason.
As far as brakes go, the stock rotors have been proven by others to work fine. If you start to get a rumble, then you should probably take an easy lap. Pagids plus some bigger front rotors plus good fluid will be able to handle anything you could conceivably throw at that car. And if that doesn't work, then the GT2 ducts should do the job.
Unlike some here, I would be perfectly comfortable driving a bone stock 996 on track with PS2s, Super Sports, Star Specs, etc. The only issue on a hot day is the driver - drink plenty of water!
I've driven at more than my share of hot track days (105 degrees at Lime Rock...) and the car never complained. I've only seen the temp gauge go higher than the zero I think one time. And depending on the tire, you should be fine with oil starvation. Anything below a Cup and you're safe as-is. If there's some serious banking on your track, or if you have some stickier tires you may want to get the X51 pan. And don't open the engine cover in the paddock. The fan is in there for a reason.
As far as brakes go, the stock rotors have been proven by others to work fine. If you start to get a rumble, then you should probably take an easy lap. Pagids plus some bigger front rotors plus good fluid will be able to handle anything you could conceivably throw at that car. And if that doesn't work, then the GT2 ducts should do the job.
Unlike some here, I would be perfectly comfortable driving a bone stock 996 on track with PS2s, Super Sports, Star Specs, etc. The only issue on a hot day is the driver - drink plenty of water!
Great advice. Totally agree!