AWDGuy

ok...thanks jake. I'll bug you more once I have all of my parts. ..should be around the time your course in September gets going (from what I see on LNE's site)

AWDGuy

alright, waiting for some bolts, but I think I am going to get started on the bearing case. one thing I noticed is there seems to be a lot of "side to side" play in the IMS bearing. I'll take a video of it tonight but it doesn't feel right to me.

wold anyone know what the part # for the apr lube used for the main bearings assembly, is it the same stuff for the rod bearings? comp cams assembly lube will work?

AWDGuy

i think i captured the play in the vid, its not much but i would think there shouldn't be any.

Imo000

You are looking for the lube for the bolts or the bearings?

AWDGuy

I got it taken care of, thanks. got someone at my parts store to help me out.

any feedback on the video folks? should there be any play in that bearing?

gnat

Factory bearing or replacement? Seals still in place (if it is the factory)?

I'm no expert, but that doesn't seem right. Since it's already apart why is there any question vs just replacing it? Or is this a fresh bearing?

At least comparing to my recently removed dual row (70k) there was zero play until I pulled the seals and cleaned it out. Now it has about the same play that yours shows until I put the seals back on.

I have no idea what the difference of a single row would be though.

AWDGuy

it's a fresh bearing with less than 10k km on it. I believe it's an LNE unit. I'll need to check the previous owners receipts but iirc, it's an LNE unit.

gnat

No idea. A call to LNE would probably be your quickest answer.

I know it's just money (), but since it's not a fresh bearing why not just toss it and start fresh?

Since you're already down that far it would seem silly to me to leave a used IMSB in there as you start to build it back up. Even when it doesn't have many miles on it, but especially if you aren't 100% sure about it's origins or current state.

Maybe move to the Solution instead of the plain bearing?

AWDGuy

this has less than 6k miles on it, was installed before I purchased it last year.

TAXFREE

Flat6 Innovations

The flange is acting like a lever, and making the play be more visible. If the bearing is dry of oil, it will have some play.

If in doubt, have it evaluated. If there's wear, you should see spalling on the outer race, between the *****. Inspect a full 360 degrees.

If the engine it came from suffered debris issues, it will be worn, and must be replaced.

AWDGuy

thanks for looking, jake. got similar responses elsewhere.

AWDGuy

Bore is 3.9763

Were using the numbers from JE pistons in between the High performance strip & Moderate street use/turbo for our calculations.

Top ring

.0046 for a gap of 0.01829

2nd Ring
.0051 for a gap of 0.02028

oil ring will be gapped to 0.016.

Once filed down and gapped, I'll start performing the cylinder pulls with a fish scale to see what kind of resistance I get. Jake gave me the numbers to look for on the fish scale, so I'm hoping Im not too far off with my calculations, but I guess the pulls will tell us the story.

Ahsai

Thanks for the useful info and glad too see you're starting the reassembly process.

So say after fish scaling, you found the rings are too tight. Does that mean you will need to go for smaller rings?

AWDGuy

I'm really not sure, I'd be going to Jake for advice then.

I guess we'll know more once the pulls are done. hopefully in the next couple of weeks. between the business, the family/kids, spare time is used for sleeping these days....