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Old 01-17-2015 | 12:59 PM
  #61  
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I'm no expert, but that's a lot of metal for an engine that showed no symptoms. I'd almost suspect the water pump ( if it had metal blades) that carved up the block.
Old 01-17-2015 | 01:49 PM
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Nice fine metallic grit, perfect for extrude honeing all internal clearances!
Old 01-17-2015 | 02:24 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Sneaky Pete
This is not making sense......at all. Maybe you ran over a squirrel and it somehow got lodged in your airbox.....and that squirrel is super pissed! I would be to after 40 miles.

So what exactly is your mechanic saying in order to charge $19K for a installed motor? That part isn't clear unless I mis-read something.
Agree with Pete. Get a second opinion. Your engine may very well be toast - but that's the worst-case diagnosis despite your lack of other symptoms. That filter doesn't look like other filters we've seen. I'm not qualified to diagnose your problem or even to disagree with what your mechanic has told you. But, given the lack of secondary symptoms, I'd want to verify that declaration of death. You've really got nothing to lose.
Old 01-17-2015 | 11:09 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Sneaky Pete
This is not making sense......at all. Maybe you ran over a squirrel and it somehow got lodged in your airbox.....and that squirrel is super pissed! I would be to after 40 miles.

So what exactly is your mechanic saying in order to charge $19K for a installed motor? That part isn't clear unless I mis-read something.
20 hrs labor (includes front end alignment, A/C service and other small stuff) @ $100/hr, 16k$ for rebuilt engine w/6mo warranty, most parts, oil, for total of $19,854 (includes $1,300 in CA state tax)
Old 01-18-2015 | 12:25 AM
  #65  
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For future planning, most rollers are going for around $5-6K at best, not $7k as some people have posted. I bought mine for less than $4K.
Old 01-18-2015 | 12:01 PM
  #66  
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^I think you are correct. Although, I spoke to a guy just yesterday at our Porsche breakfast who bought a plain Jane 2002 C2 roller for $8,500 and had Raby rebuild the engine. It sounds like was an exceptionally clean roller with only 12,000 miles on the odometer though, so that's probably the higher end.
Old 01-18-2015 | 12:22 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by TSMacNeil
I'm no expert, but that's a lot of metal for an engine that showed no symptoms. I'd almost suspect the water pump ( if it had metal blades) that carved up the block.
Yup, you are no expert. Where did you come up with this theory?
Old 01-18-2015 | 12:48 PM
  #68  
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Easy-
How do you explain that much shrapnel with no operational symptoms. Which bearing or bearings could grenade that much trash and not affect the operation or indications of the motor?
If it's chain rail debris, wouldn't the slapping chains cause some running issues?

Rather than sarcasm, perhaps you can tells us what it is.
Old 01-18-2015 | 12:55 PM
  #69  
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I think his point is, debris in the coolant (ex: from water pump) would not show up on an oil filter.
Old 01-18-2015 | 01:38 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Cuda911
I think his point is, debris in the coolant (ex: from water pump) would not show up on an oil filter.
No, he was just being rude. No oil pressure loss and continued operation for some 40 miles or so seems to disqualify most of the usual suspects for grenading an engine (assuming that is even the case). A fragged water pump spitting impeller blades could lead to debris in the oil filter and just about every where else by some point, no?
Old 01-18-2015 | 01:46 PM
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Back to the original question. First thing you need to decide is how much you like/love the car. With 105,000 miles, even with a new motor, I don't think its worth it financially unless you plan on keeping the car for a few years. If you do plan on keeping it and driving it, then for the $20k you could not find a better car. Assuming everything else on the car is good.
Old 01-18-2015 | 01:46 PM
  #72  
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Newbie here looking for more info on a 'Howaboutthat' comment referencing severe cold weather starts. Just purchased an 01 and still getting my feet wet with everything. Live in CT and since yesterday was dry and sunny but in the 20's decided to take her for a little run. Can you talk in more detail about cold weather starts? Thanks in advance!
Old 01-18-2015 | 01:49 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Howaboutthat
No, he was just being rude. No oil pressure loss and continued operation for some 40 miles or so seems to disqualify most of the usual suspects for grenading an engine (assuming that is even the case). A fragged water pump spitting impeller blades could lead to debris in the oil filter and just about every where else by some point, no?
Which begs the question....who says the motor is toast and what evidence backs it up?
Old 01-18-2015 | 02:06 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by bac2h
Newbie here looking for more info on a 'Howaboutthat' comment referencing severe cold weather starts. Just purchased an 01 and still getting my feet wet with everything. Live in CT and since yesterday was dry and sunny but in the 20's decided to take her for a little run. Can you talk in more detail about cold weather starts? Thanks in advance!
There is a theory that cold starts in really cold weather leads to cylinder scoring. Some reputable people think so. I live in NE Ohio and it is my daily driver so I spent some time looking into this. This was my conclusion. Cold weather starts may be a factor for cylinder scoring because more cars from colder climates have scoring than cars from warmer climates. But there is no direct link as cars from both climates suffer from this occasionally. It's not common. There is no direct evidence, and there are lots of other factors involved.

I drive mine every day. Temp was -4 last week. I don't loose sleep over it.
Old 01-18-2015 | 03:11 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by bac2h
Newbie here looking for more info on a 'Howaboutthat' comment referencing severe cold weather starts. Just purchased an 01 and still getting my feet wet with everything. Live in CT and since yesterday was dry and sunny but in the 20's decided to take her for a little run. Can you talk in more detail about cold weather starts? Thanks in advance!
Dgjks6 summarized it well. Seems some Canadian and other northern climate folks experienced a disproportionate amount of bore scoring that was diagnosed shortly after a series of very cold weather starts last winter. If it is below 20 degrees (Fahrenheit) I tend not to drive the car if it would remain outside long enough to adjust fully to the ambient temperature. Starting the car in the warmer garage and driving around, and even leaving it parked for a while outside in such temperatures does not concern me, but I play it conservatively by way of the super cold starts. If I did not have another vehicle handy, I would follow dgjks6's philosophy and ignore it.


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