AndrewMT996

Ha! If you'd asked me a year ago, I'd tell you that 320W was right at my 20 min power. Today, after I knocked the dust off the bikes, I'd be happy to hold that for 1 minute. I have a few more bikes upstairs, and sadley, they're all dormant.

With my new job and 2.5hrs a day of commuting, training just isn't an option any more. Plus, I'm pretty sure racing P-cars will be significantly cheaper. Wish I were joking on that...

Paul Waterloo

Andrew- looked up your ad for the roller in the classifieds.....good luck with the sale! For $23K or so (10K for a replacement engine) somebody could have a very nice car! My heart is with you on this one.

evifenocvt

Plus, I'm pretty sure racing P-cars will be significantly cheaper. Wish I were joking on that...[/QUOTE]

for reals... i have a set of zipp 808/ 1080's and they are pretty much more expensive than a set of BBS LM's. at my peak i was able to do 320W for 5min, but at 138 lbs it was good power to weight much like our 996s. but now i pull an "IMS" type of failure at anything over 250W.

FRUNKenstein

Jeez, you two, get a velodrome.

Imo000

Pump up the tires to 45psi, remove the battery and since the engine is gone, nothing else really needs to be done.

AndrewMT996

I have a half full tank of gas. Any need to drain it or put preservation fluid in it? Don't want to gunk up the fuel system.

AndrewMT996

We didn't even get to talking about the best way to shave your legs!

aviography

You should at least put in the fuel stabilizer and rock the car a bit to try distribute/mix with the gas in the tank, it's cheap insurance depends on how long those gas end up sitting in the tank.

AndrewMT996

So I'm desperately searching for an argument that would convince my wife that we should both keep the 996 as a track car and also get a new car for daily driving. So far, I've had little success.

I have a few very strong leads on people interested in buying the car. I've also found a couple of stock engines that would be great options to put in the car. As much as I'd love to keep it, I've really started to like the idea of having a car that would be better suited for a daily driver. With my commute being in heavy traffic, an automatic that also has a few more interior creature comforts would make me much more likely to drive the car on a regular basis.

Very tough decision right now.

dporto

^sounds like the old girl is on her way out^...

Imo000

Sell it as-is and move on.
Don't worry about the fuel, a full tank will not get much exposure to air and the fuel won't oxidize (unless it sits for a very, very, very long time). If you put a stabilizer in it, unless you trigger the pump, it will never get to the fuel lines anyways. If I was you, I would drain it and put it in a car that I'm going to use.

AndrewMT996

I'm not going to go through the trouble to drain and store half a tank of fuel. At this point, I hope to either have it fixed or sold before I need to worry about fuel stability.

AndrewMT996

Quick update and a request for input:

First, I'm keeping the car. After talking to some very interested buyers, who would have taken great care of the car, I realized that I would truly regret selling it. I'm going to repair the car and enjoy the hell out of driving it.

Second, there's a 3.6L M96 engine from a similar '03 Carrera here in Houston for sale. There's a thread on it here. It's the same engine that Cuda originally was looking at putting in his car.

I drove the car today and thought it both felt and sounded excellent. Maybe it's because I haven't driven mine in 2 months, but it felt better than I remember mine feeling. My very uneducated inspection also didn't reveal any concerns. My mechanic knows the mechanic parting out the car (Viking) and trusts his judgment. With all that said, I'm really at a loss on how to tell if this is a safe purchase or not. The impact was from the rear (initial impact right on read hood), although the damage to the engine compartment seems to be superficial.

Are there any additional questions or checks I should conduct before making a deal? Air intake was obviously a big cracked and it's possible the oil inlet took some of the impact.

02TX996Cab

Hi Andrew...good to hear that you're headed towards resurrecting your beauty!

My recommendations:

1. Get the code readout from the ECU on the motor you're thinking of buying and check it over (or have Mike, your mechanic, do it) to be sure it has no over-revs etc. Just like you'd do when performing a PPI on purchase of an entire car.
2. Have Mike do the typical PPI tests on the motor--leak-down, etc. If you want and he has the equipment have him pull the plugs and boroscope the cylinders. Ditto for dumping the oil and pulling the sump cover and oil filter for inspection. He'd be looking for evidence of metal particles, cylinder scoring, and so forth.
3. Ask for documentation evidencing the IMS replacement and confirm it was done with a bearing you're comfortable with (e.g. LN).

If you do purchase the engine see if the seller will provide any sort of a warranty. Not a deal breaker but a possible negotiating point.

Lastly, if you do purchase the motor attend to all the preventative maintenance items on it before installing it in your car: AOS, water pump, spark plugs, any dodgy rubber/plastic bits (e.g. oil filler tube). Those jobs are SO much easier with the engine out.

Viking has an excellent reputation within the Lone Star PCA community so you'd be dealing with a stand-up guy should you buy this motor from him.

Good luck!

alpine003

There's also a newly rebuilt engine option for $8k that comes with 6 mo warranty. But it depends on how skeptical and biased you are. I won't get into it here as to not start anything.