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Why is it necessary to change oil after one year regardless of low mileage?

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Old 04-29-2014, 11:00 PM
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Sneaky Pete
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Gotta love oil threads..........again......
Old 04-30-2014, 12:31 AM
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Kalashnikov
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I intend to switch to this oil starting with the next oil change. What you guys think?

Old 04-30-2014, 01:22 AM
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alpine003
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Originally Posted by Longtail996
alpine003, how in the world? When I twist up my Aprilia it goes so damn fast, I gotta back out of it!
I really don't know as my motor blew with 2k miles on it. I suspect the previous owner over revved it and/or didn't break it in correctly. I wasn't happy to say the least. Got a used motor replacement but still hung onto my original motor. Love the midrange v twin torque. Great for wheelies.
Old 04-30-2014, 03:55 AM
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TSMacNeil
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Originally Posted by Sneaky Pete
Gotta love oil threads..........again......
This is nothing for an oil thread...I've seen them go for years on the ///M forums.
lol
Old 04-30-2014, 08:26 AM
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halik
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Originally Posted by TSMacNeil
This is nothing for an oil thread...I've seen them go for years on the ///M forums.
lol
TWS!!
Old 04-30-2014, 11:04 PM
  #21  
Longtail996
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Originally Posted by alpine003
I really don't know as my motor blew with 2k miles on it. I suspect the previous owner over revved it and/or didn't break it in correctly. I wasn't happy to say the least. Got a used motor replacement but still hung onto my original motor. Love the midrange v twin torque. Great for wheelies.
Yeah, mine's on it's second motor as well from track day foolishness via the PO, I do like that hit starting around 4,500rpm!

Oh yeah, oil, what Jake says....
Old 04-30-2014, 11:19 PM
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DaveCarrera4
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Originally Posted by halik
Err who told you that nonsense to begin with? The air inside the crank case is a sealed system, so whether you run it 5K miles in 1 year or two years won't make any diff vis a vis air moisture etc.
I believe there may be a vent back to the gas tank or intake manifold. Have trouble believing crankcase is perfectly sealed. The volume of air in there with the hot vs cold temperature range would cause a pretty good pressure build up.

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Old 05-01-2014, 10:09 AM
  #23  
DBJoe996
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The AOS bleeds crankcase pressure back to the intake manifolds. Now back to the OP's original question - why do I have to change the oil? For that matter, why change the oil filter, air filter, tires, brake pads, brake fluid, pollen filter, or add air to the tires??.... It's a Porsche and that stuff will last forever. It's your car and you can do whatever you want. I keep mine exactly the way it left the factory and never change anything. Those car engineers/manufacturers have no idea what they are doing, and c'mon, they are really just creating circumstances where you have to go back to the dealer for service so you'll lust after all the new models and end up buying one. The heck with that...rebel and don't fall it! Make a new revolution and never, ever follow anyone's advice, especially a bunch of Porsche engineers, or Jake even.
Old 05-01-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
The AOS bleeds crankcase pressure back to the intake manifolds. Now back to the OP's original question - why do I have to change the oil? For that matter, why change the oil filter, air filter, tires, brake pads, brake fluid, pollen filter, or add air to the tires??.... It's a Porsche and that stuff will last forever. It's your car and you can do whatever you want. I keep mine exactly the way it left the factory and never change anything. Those car engineers/manufacturers have no idea what they are doing, and c'mon, they are really just creating circumstances where you have to go back to the dealer for service so you'll lust after all the new models and end up buying one. The heck with that...rebel and don't fall it! Make a new revolution and never, ever follow anyone's advice, especially a bunch of Porsche engineers, or Jake even.
Best comeback I've read so far anywhere in this forum --in fact I wanted to comment on the "sealed crankcase" (ha) but I couldn't have done it this well ! Maybe that's where the comment came from all those years in engineering relative to user/product interface-- " design it so it's idiot proof "
Old 05-01-2014, 02:01 PM
  #25  
scorchpa
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
The AOS bleeds crankcase pressure back to the intake manifolds. Now back to the OP's original question - why do I have to change the oil? For that matter, why change the oil filter, air filter, tires, brake pads, brake fluid, pollen filter, or add air to the tires??.... It's a Porsche and that stuff will last forever. It's your car and you can do whatever you want. I keep mine exactly the way it left the factory and never change anything. Those car engineers/manufacturers have no idea what they are doing, and c'mon, they are really just creating circumstances where you have to go back to the dealer for service so you'll lust after all the new models and end up buying one. The heck with that...rebel and don't fall it! Make a new revolution and never, ever follow anyone's advice, especially a bunch of Porsche engineers, or Jake even.
I agree with you.... however, as an engineer myself, I know that many of these recommendations are based on covering the extreme cases. For example, non-synthetic oil is more prone to breakdown and MUST be changed over a given time period. Most pure synthetic oils are much more stable, and the time isn't a big issue. Some synthetic oils may be blended with non-synthetic. So the engineer recommendation to change the oil every year is based on these extremes.

If you want to know the truth, just analyze your oil over time based on your current driving habits etc, and you should be able to tell when you need to change the oil..... or just follow the recommended procedure and feel confident that you are covered.

BTW - Porsche engineers recommend changing oil every 15k miles, so lets not just assume that this is "what's best for the car" The recommendation was probably based on a replacement timeframe of 7 years or so, and not meant for 15 year old cars.
Old 05-01-2014, 02:06 PM
  #26  
Flat6 Innovations
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Trust that the health of the engine isn't the only consideration in these service intervals. When buyers look at the cost of ownership they don't want to see that 3-4 services are required per year at 3-400 bucks a pop. Even though this is really the case, they still don't want to see it. The same for leasing companies, I am blown away at how many broken cars that we buy that were originally owned by a leasing company. The leasing companies won't fill their fleets with cars that require a ton of service as they are responsible for it.Its no coincidence that the cars that seem to break so often were originally a leased vehicle, because they only got the service that the factory called for, nothing more.

And, I don't care if the oil will last a year, when I change my oil I want to purge impurities from the oil sump that are there from the combustion processes. Whether the oil is good or not, it is laced with impurities. These engines are even worse as they are notorious for fuel intrusion that stems from a lack of ring seal and over enriched starts cycles that are meant to light off catalytic converters faster.

Its the things that you don't know that always worry me.. Thats why I work to learn as much as I can, never stopping and never giving up.
Old 05-01-2014, 08:24 PM
  #27  
rwiii
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I am the original OP and was not advocating not doing an annual change......just curious why. There's really good data on this thread.



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