Finally finishing AOS/RMS/IMS
#31
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Installed the air filter and hooked up the MAF. All the fault codes are gone.
On the down side there is something bad definitely going on with my PS pump. It's groaning and making a clacking/rattling noise. Replacement is $400 so I guess that's not too bad if I need it. The fluid is topped off and I follower the bleeding process of turning the wheel lock to lock.
More research...
On the down side there is something bad definitely going on with my PS pump. It's groaning and making a clacking/rattling noise. Replacement is $400 so I guess that's not too bad if I need it. The fluid is topped off and I follower the bleeding process of turning the wheel lock to lock.
More research...
#32
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Thread Starter
Played a hunch and added more PS fluid with the engine running and the pump quieted down, so I guess it's OK. Engine was clicking for a few minutes but after warming up completely quieted down also; sticking lifters from sitting for so long.
Camshaft deviation measured with Durametric is Bank 1 = 2.4 and Bank 2 = -.66. I didn't measure before I started so I can't compare, but it seems to run normally. I still have to take for a test drive...
Camshaft deviation measured with Durametric is Bank 1 = 2.4 and Bank 2 = -.66. I didn't measure before I started so I can't compare, but it seems to run normally. I still have to take for a test drive...
#35
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Thread Starter
Yes, I,m joking. Test drive was uneventful, thankfully, but the engine just doesn't sound or feel right - it feels kinda' ragged, like an air-cooled engine. It idles fine, no codes, good power and acceleration, I just don't remember it sounding and feeling that way. Maybe that's only because I haven't drove it in a year or my other thought was perhaps because the battery was disconnected for so long it needs to relearn the engine mapping?
Anyone with ideas please share your thoughts...
Anyone with ideas please share your thoughts...
#37
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Yes, I,m joking. Test drive was uneventful, thankfully, but the engine just doesn't sound or feel right - it feels kinda' ragged, like an air-cooled engine. It idles fine, no codes, good power and acceleration, I just don't remember it sounding and feeling that way. Maybe that's only because I haven't drove it in a year or my other thought was perhaps because the battery was disconnected for so long it needs to relearn the engine mapping?
Anyone with ideas please share your thoughts...
Anyone with ideas please share your thoughts...
After I did my AOS my car was running like crap too. Couldn't figure it out so I took it to the dealer and they showed me where I had misrouted some lines. Was a relatively quick fix for them and my car was running great again.
#38
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Thread Starter
Check and make sure all vacuum lines are installed correctly.
After I did my AOS my car was running like crap too. Couldn't figure it out so I took it to the dealer and they showed me where I had misrouted some lines. Was a relatively quick fix for them and my car was running great again.
After I did my AOS my car was running like crap too. Couldn't figure it out so I took it to the dealer and they showed me where I had misrouted some lines. Was a relatively quick fix for them and my car was running great again.
Thanks for the advice. The last thing I ever want to do in life is jerk around with that AOS again...
#39
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Yes, I'm considering taking it to the dealer and let them put it on their scanner and test drive. They listen to Porsche engines every day and I haven't heard one run in over a year so at this point they know better than I if it sounds like it's running properly.
Thanks for the advice. The last thing I ever want to do in life is jerk around with that AOS again...
Thanks for the advice. The last thing I ever want to do in life is jerk around with that AOS again...
Fortunately when I took it in they said my install was good () but I just hadn't connected all of the hoses/lines correctly. Whew!
#40
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Word of Warning
Okay fellow Rennlisters - here is my Word of Warning and some advice. Some background: Car - 1999 C2 w/128,700 miles. AOS casing cracked and coolant was running down back of engine. Also car was starting to run like crap, although no smoke, so it was time to head in. Me - 57 years young and been DIY wrenching on everything mechanical since I was like 15. Navy Machinist Mate and Engineering degree. I have two complete tool benches with just about every tool imaginable. I figured with the advice of those who have done this, helpful hints from Rennlist, RennTech, Pelican and so on...well, how hard could this be? I've done many other engine projects on the car (starter, plugs, coils, sensors, SAI, water pump, thermostat, oil changes, filters, window regulators, all the usual culprits that everybody here knows with a higher mileage PCar).
Here is my Word of Warning - this is definitely not a job for an amateur or faint of heart! Do not undertake this job if you have any questions about the exact procedures to follow and just about every mechanical trick in the book up your sleeve. Getting all of the front components out is challenge enough, but getting those manifold bolts out is the job of the century. Getting that manifold back in place in line with the resonance chamber is really tough. Add to the job, remove rear bumper, heat shields and all that so you can drop the engine to the lowest point you can. Also, getting the AOS out is a challenge unto itself, and getting the new one in is a pain with the limited space you have to work with, along with the accumulated crud of 15 years on the road built up in those areas.
Like others have said, one main key is to place that back bolt in the manifold and secure it before putting the manifold back in. I did that as well as used painters tape to secure it and the socket before reinstalling. Still a bear of a job. You will never get that bolt in any other way. Besides the AOS and hoses, I replaced the intake gaskets, throttle body gaskets, marked every vacuum hose and other lines, took many pictures before taking stuff apart. It is amazing where you can cram an IPhone and take pictures. Really helpful!
Additional suggestions - my greatest friends for this job: Advil, Ace bandage to wrap left arm (you will bleed on this one, I think I have some new scars now for a lifetime), beer, mechanics gloves, latex gloves, Advil, beer, a stubby swivel head ratchet, hose clamp pliers, magnets for locating all the dropped bolts (one I could not locate for 1.5 days), did I say Advil...and most of all, a really loving/understanding wife that was patient for 6 days to complete this project while I hogged the garage. She also worked with me for 5 hours in the driveway detailing all the removed stuff, de-greasing the engine, cleaning parts and reinstalling the bumper cap. A woman to love!! My hands (and body) ache like never before, but....fixed and the car runs great! I will never attempt this again with the engine in the car!
AutoAtlanta Porsche parts was a dream. Ordered parts on 1/6, started removing stuff on 1/8, had parts in hand on 1/11, finalized work on 1/14 (I do have a day job but spent almost two complete days working on car along with nights). Cost was around $300 for parts, the experience was one of a lifetime. Just in time because the PCar is our ticket into the Rolex 24 and the Porsche parking paddock...we have the tickets and parking pass...number 91. Ha!
Here is my Word of Warning - this is definitely not a job for an amateur or faint of heart! Do not undertake this job if you have any questions about the exact procedures to follow and just about every mechanical trick in the book up your sleeve. Getting all of the front components out is challenge enough, but getting those manifold bolts out is the job of the century. Getting that manifold back in place in line with the resonance chamber is really tough. Add to the job, remove rear bumper, heat shields and all that so you can drop the engine to the lowest point you can. Also, getting the AOS out is a challenge unto itself, and getting the new one in is a pain with the limited space you have to work with, along with the accumulated crud of 15 years on the road built up in those areas.
Like others have said, one main key is to place that back bolt in the manifold and secure it before putting the manifold back in. I did that as well as used painters tape to secure it and the socket before reinstalling. Still a bear of a job. You will never get that bolt in any other way. Besides the AOS and hoses, I replaced the intake gaskets, throttle body gaskets, marked every vacuum hose and other lines, took many pictures before taking stuff apart. It is amazing where you can cram an IPhone and take pictures. Really helpful!
Additional suggestions - my greatest friends for this job: Advil, Ace bandage to wrap left arm (you will bleed on this one, I think I have some new scars now for a lifetime), beer, mechanics gloves, latex gloves, Advil, beer, a stubby swivel head ratchet, hose clamp pliers, magnets for locating all the dropped bolts (one I could not locate for 1.5 days), did I say Advil...and most of all, a really loving/understanding wife that was patient for 6 days to complete this project while I hogged the garage. She also worked with me for 5 hours in the driveway detailing all the removed stuff, de-greasing the engine, cleaning parts and reinstalling the bumper cap. A woman to love!! My hands (and body) ache like never before, but....fixed and the car runs great! I will never attempt this again with the engine in the car!
AutoAtlanta Porsche parts was a dream. Ordered parts on 1/6, started removing stuff on 1/8, had parts in hand on 1/11, finalized work on 1/14 (I do have a day job but spent almost two complete days working on car along with nights). Cost was around $300 for parts, the experience was one of a lifetime. Just in time because the PCar is our ticket into the Rolex 24 and the Porsche parking paddock...we have the tickets and parking pass...number 91. Ha!
Last edited by DBJoe996; 01-14-2014 at 04:00 PM.
#41
Burning Brakes
And the 3.6 AOS is even harder to replace. I axctually whacked off the bottom 3 threads of the manifold bolt closest to the AOS, as there was NO way to get my socket in there without doing that. I agree, dropping the engine is the smart move.
#42
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Thread Starter
That being said, now that I'm aware of these things the next time will go much quicker since I know which tool to use on which fastener in which order.
#43
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First I would like to thank all of the pioneers that figured out a way to do this and documented the procedure. It is actually humbling in retrospect. And you are correct sandersd, I don't know how many times I stood back in complete (and utter) exasperation with the difficulty and frustration (as well as aches to every arm, limb, fingers and back in my body). I spent many moments just staring in there and wondering how much the flat-bed and Porsche dealer was going to cost me....then dove back in. In the end, I'm proud of what I did, but I never want to do it again like that. Just sharing my experience so hopefully others will know. On a good note, my wife is encouraging me to have a lift installed in the garage! So perhaps something really good came from this.....
#44
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Thread Starter
#45
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Thread Starter
O2 sensor not ready
I drove around the neighborhood this evening, came home and hooked up the Durametric. When I checked the ready status it says the oxygen sensors fail. So I recorded actual values for all the )2 related sensors and exported the file:
2014_01_14_17_35_57.zip
Perhaps some of you with a Durametric could do the same and I can compare values to see if mine are out of range. I would really appreciate it.
2014_01_14_17_35_57.zip
Perhaps some of you with a Durametric could do the same and I can compare values to see if mine are out of range. I would really appreciate it.