DCQT

Any other reasons, beside IMS bearing, to have ferrous metal shavings on magnetic drain plug and oil filter?

Imo000

Hidraulic lifters, the timing chains are ferrous and a few more parts in the engine. Can you post pictures?

DCQT

Are the hydraulic lifters a well known problem?

DCQT

I replace and dissect the filter every 2.5k, with a 5k OCI. I use a 50/50 mixture of M1 0w-40 and M1 10w-40 in the winter and a 50/50 mixture of M1 0w-40 and M1 5w-50 in the summer. Oil pressure is very good. The car has accumulated 95k miles. The engine started to idle strangely about 3k ago. These are some photos of the last filter. I don't have any photos of the magnetic drain plug, but it did have a fair amount of metal shavings on it. Sorry about the low quality photos.

WalterRohrl

I have a related question for whoever can answer - would a 50/50 mix of M1 0W-40 and 10W-40 be the same as 100% 5W-40?

aviography

Are those particles on the outside of the filter elements?

I just changed the filter tonight as part of the half-season change over, and was wondering if the oil flow is from the outside of the filter element to the inside, which seems to make more sense.

DCQT

Yes, those particles are on the outside of the filter element. You are correct, the oil flow is from outside to inside.

KNS

Unless the formulation for 5W-40 is different than the other two - yeah, it would be the same.

Flat6 Innovations

Debris can easily bypass the filter at start up when pressure is extremely high. This is the time when debris damages the engine as it bypasses the filter in the bypass oil laden with it.

The "finger test" in the center of the oil delivery port will tell you if the main and rod bearings have been fed with debris laden oil. This is why we have a severe dislike for the factory oil filter housing.

DCQT

If the oil bypass valve open due to high pressure, wouldn't the oil be diverted back into the sump?

I have the SPOFA and use Mobil 1 M1-107 oil filter or K&N equivalent along with a lower temperature thermostat. The SPOFA has reduced the start-up noise considerably, I'm guessing because of the anti-drain back valve. I haven't driven the car (except for re positioning it in the garage) after the last OCI. Bad timing to switch to Redline oil. OUCH!

Macster

Who knows? But it does result in a "blend" of oil that contains 50% of an oil not suitable for use in these engines.

10w-40 is not an approved viscosity of oil for these engines. Why anyone would want to dilute an approved oil with with an unapproved oil is beyond me.

If 0w-40 is not to your liking due to the only thing that makes any sense would be the ambient temperatures in your region then there is 5w-40, even a 5w-50 (not a typo for 15w-50!).

Even blending say 0w-40 and 5w-50 to get God only knows what is not recommended. The additive packages even the base oil blend is not likely the same so you have some hybrid oil, Frankenstein oil, for who knows for what purpose and suitable for who knows what but not for your Porsche engine.

knfeparty

Are you sure that stuff is ferrous? I get some bits like that but they are non-ferrous and I think it's just flashing from machining/casting in the aluminum parts of the motor.

Flat6 Innovations

If accountants hasn't engineered the engine the bypass oil would divert back to the sump.

Familiarize yourself with the oil system of the engine and you will see that bypass oil is unfiltered oil. Further, this bypass oil is from the bottom of the filter housing and guess where all the debris collects? You got it.

DCQT

Yes, unfortunately it is ferrous, I just ran a magnet over it and all of the shavings was attached to the magnet.

It seems that #4 is the high pressure oil relief valve, which diverts the oil back into the sump. Or am I missing something?

Flat6 Innovations

This system layout is very confusing.

Do not confuse the oil pressure relief valve located in the oil pump housing with the oil filter bypass valve located within the oil filter canister.