Steve's MLC

So I embarked on the "20 to 30 minute" DIY of changing my 10 yr old motor mounts. It took me 20 to 30 minutes just to figure out how to disconnect the freakin MAF sensor.

So I finally get the air intake out, and look to the right, looks good. I look to the left, and WTH is that thing?

What is the big *** black thing covering my motor mount? Can I remove it without royally screwing something up? Any tips, guidance, or other help requested, please!

KrazyK

Steve you may want to read a little more before you dive in. Thats the SAI assembly. One nut up top, two bolts on bottom, double wire plug, one hose, and its out. Hint, loosen dont remove the hard to reach bottom bolt.


Mounts are easy DIY, look at the DIY section in renntech.org for several easy repairs and maintenance. Great job on doing your own work!

Invius

Steve, I just did my mounts, and did not remove any of the wiring attached to the SAI, or hoses...there is enough room to just move it. I think there are only two bolts/nuts, but maybe it was three. Once it was free, I "gently" moved it to the right, and that provided plenty of room to get the mount on that side out. I think I recall you mentioning in your geeeked out garage series that you do have a set of deep sockets, which you will need (18mm on the bottom nut specifically), a 6" extender to get to it easily, and a torque wrench to get everything just right. Let us know if you need any other help, I'll be happy to assist wherever possible.

Litesonic

Good Luck Steve.

Did you select the C2 or the Turbo version of the mounts? I have seen them for the same price, so I was wondering if there was a benefit of one over the other.

I hope you are successful in this minor project, because I'd like to do mine too.

KrazyK

Sorry Steve, you dont have to remove the SAI buts its a good time to do so while there. You can clean and inspect it.

AndyK

I read the DIY, removed the air filter box, and the air pump - made it VERY easy to do.

Steve's MLC

I hear ya Krazy. I did actually do a lot of reading. I have the Bentley manual and it didn't help with this DIY. Renntech had the same attitude as you. "it's so easy there's no need for a DIY". Everything is easy once you do it. You got to know that I am not very mechanically inclined, so basic stuff like Invius provided is very helpful to me.

Thanks! That was perfect. Except...below when it went bad.

I ordered the Turbo, but in one of the other threads someone mentioned that if you order from Pelican, it doesn't matter which one you order, you get the same mounts.


So I was out most of the day and just got back into this. I decided to do the right non-SAI side first. It came out without much issue, although the engine dropped signicantly to the right when I removed the bolt even though it was supported by my jack. I had to jack the engine pretty high to get the threads to line up. But it worked fine.

Then the horror happened. I tightened the top bolts and when they were snug I got my brand new Snap On torque wrench and set it to 20 ft/lb. It got pretty tight and it would not click. I assumed it was just seating but decided to go ahead and do the bottom nut to help it seat. I tightened and torqued the bottom to 64 ft/lb and click. Done. Set it back to 20, and went back up top. No click, turn, turn turn. I began to wonder if the threads were stripped when SNAP. The bolt breaks in two.

Out of curiosity, I left the torque wrench on 20 and went back under to the nut that I knew was torqued to 64, and no click. The torque wrench is rated 10 to 100, so I assume it's just defective.

So now what? Anyone have a good link for a tool that will remove bolts?

Steve's MLC

Autozone says they have an extractor. Hopefully it works.

keytohwy

****. That sucks. I'd get a pro involved.

Invius

Holy cow Steve, that's crazy. Without seeing how it is broken, it's hard to give you too much counsel. If it's threaded in there, see if you can unwind the top part with the head still on it (assuming it is), and reach the bottom (broken) side from under the car with pliers and thread it out, if that's even possible. If not, I think you are going to have to get a bolt extractor and they basically drill into the broken part of the bolt, and then back it out.

KrazyK

Steve dont panic. I restore older Jeeps and other vehicles and this is a common occurrence. As you found out, no need for torque wrench on top bolts. Just a 3/8 drive ratchet/socket snugging them will do.

Sometimes if you hold the craftsman click type torque wrench wrong you can prevent the "click" at lower torque settings.

Hopefully this wont discourage you but I would not want to start my mechanic skills on a Porsche. I was thinking you had prior experience.

Watch some videos about twisted off bolt extraction, get every thing out of your way, then go for it. DO NOT BREAK OFF THE EXTRACTOR IN THE OLD BOLT!!!!! (I have)

If you need extra bolts, I may have some. I bought several nuts, bolts, parts, etc. off salvage 996's and have lots of spares.

Could you remove the mount and post a pic? Sure wish one of us was closer and we could help you. Dont despair, this is nothing major.

Invius

Steve, Here is a very quick video on removing a bolt that has sheared off.


GL,

DS

Steve's MLC

Thanks guys. I got it out of there. Leave it to me to screw up the easiest DIY. But I have not yet begun to fight. Two decades from now, I will appreciate my current efforts.

Ok, next problem(s). I noticed this under my car. (picture). I swear I have done nothing but remove the right motor mount. What is it, and where does it go?

Also, I removed the jack, and I noticed my engine is much higher inside the compartment. I just torqued it to 64 ft lb's. What did I do wrong?

DK570

That looks like the isolator that goes between the vehicle and the bottom of the airbox.

Ubermensch

Regarding the high engine position, did you confirm the mounts were fully seated before you started tightening things? If I recall correctly they have a square fitting in the bottom that needs to be seated in the correct orientation.

S.