You May Be Able to Repair , Not Replace Your SAI
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyK View Post
You can easily rebuild the SAI too.
Please elaborate. Have you done this? I've seen others referencing cleaning the SAI but never a rebuild. I've taken my original one apart and cleaned it a few times, but I think I'd need to replace the bearings to really solve the problem. I'd be interested in seeing a reference for someone that's done it.
Shawn
Originally Posted by KrazyK View Post
You can easily rebuild the SAI too.
Please elaborate. Have you done this? I've seen others referencing cleaning the SAI but never a rebuild. I've taken my original one apart and cleaned it a few times, but I think I'd need to replace the bearings to really solve the problem. I'd be interested in seeing a reference for someone that's done it.
Shawn
Mine recently sqealed a few times on startup so I went ahead and did the repair. My SAI is now quite and works fine (no codes).
I will post the DIY with pics if anyone is even remotely interested. If you think Im full of it (as some here do), go ahead and pay the $1500 because I dont give a rats ***.
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Secondary Air Injector. Krazy has been posting some good info with pics on Renntech as well. Not sure why the attitude has to continue - but if one can see past that the info is often helpful - if for nothing more than becoming more educated.
#4
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wouldn't have asked if I wasn't interested. I solved my problem by replacing the unit with a used one, but I've been planning on taking the original one apart and rebuilding it eventually. My plan was to replace the bearings but I'd be interested to hear what you did. I tried to get a little lightweight oil into the bearings and it quieted it down short term but the noise eventually came back.
Shawn
Shawn
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What I would like to know is how to remove the SAI altogether... We don't have emission controls down here in Florida and this box is slowing me down ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, any DIY on how to remove all the emission hardware would be great. I mean doing it right without CEL light coming up.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, any DIY on how to remove all the emission hardware would be great. I mean doing it right without CEL light coming up.
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Philooo, that would be ideal. Unfortunately I've always heard that it requires modifying the ECU programming to avoid the light. I'd love to be wrong, so please speak up if someone knows how to handle this!
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
may be some people in charge of the durametric thingy could chime in about cancelling a CEL light for the long term... that would be nice to have. Something like 'always ignore' a particular code.
I also wonder if removing the pump and its hoses would certainly require modifications so that the vaccum system is still functioning with the rest of the engine... If there is actually any need for that system...
I bet the 996 spec racer people have done it.. I'd love to hear about it as well.
I also wonder if removing the pump and its hoses would certainly require modifications so that the vaccum system is still functioning with the rest of the engine... If there is actually any need for that system...
I bet the 996 spec racer people have done it.. I'd love to hear about it as well.
Trending Topics
#8
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What I would like to know is how to remove the SAI altogether... We don't have emission controls down here in Florida and this box is slowing me down ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, any DIY on how to remove all the emission hardware would be great. I mean doing it right without CEL light coming up.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Seriously, any DIY on how to remove all the emission hardware would be great. I mean doing it right without CEL light coming up.
Having said that, I believe that it should be ok to remove the emissions hardware from your street car's engine provided we can have your address so those that want to can dump their garbage in your yard.
The DME is tasked with (among other things) feeding the engine an air/fuel mixture that results in exhaust gases that are most efficiently/thoroughly processed by the converters. These work in a very narrow band of exhaust gas composition.
Feed back is used by the DME to know it is doing its job.
If you remove the converters not only will the CEL come on but before this the DME will seek to arrive at a fuel/air mixture that has the expected voltage signals coming from the O2 sensors after the converters.
Even if you can somehow manage to prevent the CEL from coming on, the very real possibility is the engine will run worse than it did with the emissions hardware present and properly functioning.
To remove the chance the CEL comes on is one thing. To re-task the DME to provide the proper air/fuel mixture without the benefit of the feedback it requires is something else again.
And just in case you are serious about the emissions hardware slowing you down, I seriously doubt that. What is probably slowing you down is your driving ability.
Under hard acceleration -- high torque demand signaled by the e-Gas -- the DME suspends emissions monitoring and enriches the air/fuel mixture to a ratio that is optimum for power (torque) generation. Essentially except for the small weight penalty by its presence, the emissions hardware offers no impediment to performance.
When emissions monitoring is in effect the engine is properly fueled, and thus runs better, more efficiently, cleaner, and thus will run far longer far better than it would sans the emissions hardware.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not sure why the attitude has to continue -
So, nevermind, yes I agree. Just remove it.
#10
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mooresville, IN (Life Long Cheesehead)
Posts: 5,815
Likes: 0
Received 55 Likes
on
36 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All you need to do K is keep on the topic. If you haven't realized alot of us tend to go from one to another within the same thread. Big deal.....now you are acting like a little kid and taking his ball home. Boo hoo!
#13
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I already replaced my cat converter with aftermarket one and I had to install some spark plug extended to foul the O2 sensor already.
I don't get any CEL, but I did not know that this might influence the DME fuel mixture... interesting.
I want to keep my car from polluting as I think it is serious business as well, but the secondary air pump is only running for what, 20 seconds. So I figured that the effect is really minimum compared to the time I am driving the car. I am surprised that there is no tolerance for a few seconds until the car reach a base temperature, before testing the gas emission. But again I live in florida, may be the SAI run a lot longer in colder climates ?
I don't get any CEL, but I did not know that this might influence the DME fuel mixture... interesting.
I want to keep my car from polluting as I think it is serious business as well, but the secondary air pump is only running for what, 20 seconds. So I figured that the effect is really minimum compared to the time I am driving the car. I am surprised that there is no tolerance for a few seconds until the car reach a base temperature, before testing the gas emission. But again I live in florida, may be the SAI run a lot longer in colder climates ?
#14
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The SAI injects air into the EXHAUST to provide complete catalyst combustion. This also only happens in a cold engine. Removing the SAI will give you a gross HP gain of ZERO. The extra weight removal of what? Around 20lbs will not be noticed in the ***-o-meter at all. So.... I would just leave it on and fix the bearings.....or just unplug it and live with the check engine light...or.....
#15
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Krazy - I would like to see the procedure for rebuilding it as well if you can spare the time to post it. Thank You.
Macster - Not to derail KK's thread more but I think you were correct it is the SAI kicking on again after I drive for a bit and stop (like I mentioned above). It must have something to do with the car hitting normal operating temp and then stopping in the cold weather. If it ever warms up again (summer?) I will keep my eye (well, ear I guess) on it and see if it does it then as well. The whirring noise sounds the same, just the high-pitched sawblade noise is not present, maybe when warmed up from the engine compartment mine is either expanding slightly in size or the oil in the bearings is flowing better, I don't know...