Gonzo911

I originally tried just replacing the switch. I am waaaaay too claustaphobic for that job! Someone who has successfully done it might want to give a tip on getting that screw that faces the front of the car undone!

Hardback

and a headband light

frisbee91

Hmm. I just replaced the switch on Saturday. Took me like 20 minutes. Not sure what everyone is complaining about. It wasn't that hard. The key was to use a tiny flathead screwdriver bit. Just the bit.



Here's the DIY I used: Linky

Marc Gelefsky

You must be a contortionist , I did the switch a while back, it was not a difficult job but it was an uncomfortable one!

pesuazo

+1....I also used the headlight band......30 minute job.......it was a PITA for a 6'3" guy like me....hanging upside down on the drivers seat, head in the footwell and feet in the back seat.....

Capt. Obvious

I'm 6'4" and if it's anything like swapping out the assist spring for the clutch, it won't be comfortable, but I'll be able to handle it.

perryinva

Just like swapping the assist spring, they are right next to each other. You have to remove the exact same AC duct as well. There are only 2 flatblade screws under some dried up red "locking" paint that flicks off very easily with the screw driver blade. Any small shafted "tweaker" screw driver will work, but not those convertable, flip around ones that vendors hand out all the time. A real one, like a Craftsman, that has a small thin shaft and small blade. The electrical connector pulls straight off, loosen the 2 screws, so a few threads show, but do not remove them and the switch pulls right out. My key was actually stuck in the ignition and would not come out no matter what I tried, but once I pulled off the switch, I was easily able to turn the key to off and it came out easily like it normally would. Then I installed the URO switch for $19 (free and super fast shipping, got mine in 4 days) from ebay, and was done in no time and works just like it was new. I can't figure out how it affects the key so bad, but it does. By far the hardest part is removing and re-installing the AC duct without breaking anything in that tight small area. If your key gets stuck like mine, remember to put the seat all the way back and down before you pull the battery negative to work on it. I pulled the negative because the damn chiming was driving me crazy while I had my head under the dash!

Targatoo

I just moved down to Maryland last week. My car was shipped down and on my first drive my ignition is suffering the same symtoms many have described and my AC wouldn't turn on (and the fan speed jumped up and down on its own). I want to go after the shipping company for the repair 'cause i don't have the time for a DIY, as i'm a total rookie. They won't likely own up and I'll be stuck.

Can anyone point me to some more helpful links (tips and tricks) that will really make this a 20 min job, like the tip for the "tweaker" screwdriver that, without it, makes the job impossible or adds an hour long trip to Sears? And what is a tweaker screwdriver?

Thanks in advance

frisbee91

Look at post # 18 for a picture of the screwdriver I used, and a link to a DIY.

Oh, and though I'm not a contortionist, I am pretty flexible. Also, I'm a skinny 5' 8", so I guess that helps.

taylorcm5376

I loved these threads; I had a switch that was going bad, and I made it worse by adding lubricant until I could no longer remove the key. Got the $12 part from NAPA (made in China but don't tell anyone) and once I figured out what I was trying to do wasn't too hard.

One trick that may help others is that I wanted to get the clutch pedal depressed to leave more room to work. I noticed the steering column down near the floor, just above the splines, has a sort of "groove" about 1/2" wide, just wide enough to loop a tight large-size Ziptie. To this I tied a 2nd ziptie and was able to lock the pedal down to the floor.





Holding the clutch pedal down. These zip ties are the largest that Harbor Freight sells

Mib44

IDK how you guys are doing it in 15-20 minutes?! Ive spent almost 2 hours already, because the closest screw it pretty tight and i can't get it rotated even a bit. The other one though, was easy to unscrew.

Update:
I sprayed a bit of WD40 and tried more and more and finally unscrewed it! You really need to have strong fingers to unscrew that thing haha

Mib44

another update: now the key won't turn at all??! Whats wrong?

3rd and last update for today.. Had to take the ignition switch out and match/rotate the hole in the back with my old switch. Assembled again, trying to start, cluster panel lights turn on... and nothing happens. No click, nothing...
Any ideas please???

Thank you.

John Carroll

The trick is to also remove the vent to the left of the steering wheel, the way you can come in at the hidden set screw from the top left (and not be contorted into a pretzel under the dash) rather than from the bottom right.

SealG996

I had a non Indy, Korean (?small agile small handed) Ultratune mechanic (francise holder), recognise, fix mine switch swap alone. I the Indy I use - Family run Porsche specialist I use, is 5 hours plus away.. So far I've only needed the Official dealer 20 min away for parts.