Gonzo911

Have had a problem with my ignition switch as previously posted. Key turned too far clockwise and AC would not work. Turn key back slightly and all worked fine. Tried the DIY but failed miserably. Indy wants to replace the entire lock mechanism...not just the switch. Thoughts?

XR4Tim

I believe the lock mechanism is only responsible for the contact that lets you know your key is still in the ignition (keeps the radio on until you pull the key out, may sound a chime if you open the door with the key still in the ignition), steering wheel lock when the key is out, and of course not letting keys with the wrong cut turn in the ignition. Every other function is the responsibility of the electrical switch portion. So if your key is turning in the ignition fine, your steering wheel lock works, and your car doesn't think the key is in it when it's not, I don't see why you'd need to replace the entire lock mechanism.

Marc Gelefsky

I had the same issue, replaced just the switch, fixed.

Gonzo911

Thanks guys. It's covered under warranty but your opinions are the same as everything i have read. I recall some "fix" Porsche recommended that involved more than the switch. I wonder if that is what they are doing?

fpb111

So many switches failed that Porsche discontinued switch availability and recommends installing an "updated" switch that includes the whole switch/steering wheel lock a$$y.
That is all that Porsche offers now.

The old switch is still available for prices ranging from ~$14.00-$100 from Audi, VW, NAPA, EBay etc. The new Porsche recommended switch assys (~$300+ installation) have had some failures also.

Most folks just replace the ign switch. (unless it is under warranty) Lots of DIYs (many claiming ~45 min or less first time and much quicker if they have to repeat again.
Here is one there are many:
http://industryfigure.com/berkeley/P...tionswitch.htm

jasper

This man is correct.

For those of us not lucky enough to be covered by a warranty, it makes sense to keep replacing $30 switches every once in a while compared to doing the big "upgrade".

DIY difficulty is a 3/10 - maybe 4/10 if you're big and inflexible like me which makes it difficult to cram into the footwell.

I should mention too that I replaced my switch 3 years and 40K miles ago and it's still working fine. The issue I was having was that my key would not pull out of the lock. I was quite surprised when replacing the plastic electrical switch totally solved the problem.

NBTBRV8

Why bother with the pissy switch, just change the complete mechanism. That's what I did, it isn't hard, it cost $130 from Sonnen Porsche and it will probably last the life of the car.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...ml#post3395412

Marc Gelefsky

Yeah, easy job but my back was tweaked for 3 days after doing it!

fpb111

They also have failed and the switch replacements are harder to get.
If you have replaced the whole assy please put that info in your owners manual so the next poor victim doesn't go crazier trying to figure out why 4A090 5849B doesn't fit.

Gonzo911

Went ahead and replaced the whole mechanism since it was a warranted item. If this repair was not under warranty, and I could have done the DIY on just the switch, I would definitely have gone that route. Thanks for all the replies!

Capt. Obvious

Is the ignition switch or the lock mechanism responsible for the action (assuming a spring of some sort) that returns the key to run position after you start it? When I started the car this weekend there was a pop noise from the key mechanism and now I have to manually turn the key back when I start the car. Also, when I remove the key from the ignition I have to tap the ignition to get the car to turn off the radio.

DreamCarrera

The switch contains the spring which snaps the switch and lock mechanism back to the run position(or the "off" position when the key is removed). When you have a sticky(hard to turn) lock mechanism it eventually wears out the spring and the spring will eventually be unable to snap the lock mechanism back to the "off" position. This happened to me a couple of years ago and when this happens you cannot put the key back into the ignition because the spring fails(does not have enough strength) and will not snap the switch back to the off position. Luckily, when mine finally failed I was parked in my garage and not out somewhere.

I only changed the switch on my car and my lock mechanism is still very stiff so it will eventually wear out my spring again. I can tell my switch is going bad again because it usually takes a couple of seconds(longer when it's cold outside) for the switch to snap back after I remove the key.

Has anyone tried a lock lubricant with any success for a sticky 996 ignition???

Hardback

AHHH the great switch debate.

1. 14$ switch is a good DIY if you can stand on your head for 5 minutes and have eyeballs on your finger tips
2. bad swicth can make all sort of issues
a. sticky mechanism not let go of key
b. radio stays on when key is removed
c. ac stays on after key is removed
d. impossible to remove key if u procrastinate with replacement

start with cheap part... if cheap part no worky then go to entire mechanism. switch cured all of the above for me. And yes im big, unflexible and no mutant eyeballs on fingers but still swapped switch in 20 min.

Capt. Obvious

I'm going to snag a switch on the way home and pop it in. Looking in other threads it looks like the switch will fix the issue.

Marc Gelefsky

But you will need a chiropractor.