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Clank noise from Crank pulley & Lights flicker (video) Help!

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Old 03-02-2012, 07:20 PM
  #76  
RPMulli
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Originally Posted by logray
Thats the resonance flap, changes the intake vacuum tuning at different engine speeds.
Doesn't it create some turbulent airflow in the plenum? Why not just leave it open all the time?
Old 03-02-2012, 08:33 PM
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logray
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Page 190 through 192 for a read on the engineering behind the resonance flap.

http://books.google.com/books?id=Raa...page&q&f=false
Old 03-02-2012, 08:48 PM
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Thanks for the link, I should pick up that book!!
Old 03-03-2012, 04:44 AM
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speed rII
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Just saw a post in local porsche forum, about charge problem's.
Car was 997 turbo, but I think that the same wire could be the problem in your case allso.

Check that cable for voltage drop. It seem's that the same wire is used in all watercooled engine's



(akun + napa = battery + terminal)
Old 03-03-2012, 12:12 PM
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The above wire was the one that I replaced that solved many of my electrical problems.

Also did you replace the entire ignition switch mechanism (the more expensive fix?), or just the cheaper fix (the $10-15 part)?
Old 03-03-2012, 01:40 PM
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I replaced just the electrical portion and I replaced that large wire leading from the alternator last year.
Old 03-06-2012, 05:11 PM
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Update: Finally got my last parts in the mail. I installed the 4-6 chain tensioner and the noise appears to be slightly quieter. I wish I knew how long this noise has been going on for because it is easily hidden by the sounds of my exhaust. Could the noise possibly be caused by something in the head/camshaft region? I plan on replacing my chain guides later this year.

Meanwhile, the car drives perfectly fine.
Old 03-06-2012, 05:33 PM
  #83  
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Sorry to hear the noise is still there.

If you've pinpointed it to near/behind the crank pulley area then chances are that's where the problem lies.
Old 03-06-2012, 06:34 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by logray
Sorry to hear the noise is still there.

If you've pinpointed it to near/behind the crank pulley area then chances are that's where the problem lies.
Quick question, I want to run the engine without the pulley on. Should I just pull off the pulley at TDC then run engine, reinstall the pulley, turn motor to TDC with bolt, break torque then retorque??
Old 03-06-2012, 07:05 PM
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yep that should work!
Old 03-06-2012, 11:15 PM
  #86  
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Logray, are there any known failures of the smaller bearing on the opposite side of the intermediate shaft? I know its not the roller type.
Old 03-06-2012, 11:36 PM
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I hate to cast a shadow on the situation... best to keep a good attitude about it, but odds are...

I haven't read of any ims tube front end failures (aside from "rebuilders" re-using parts that should not be re-used), but certainly there are those who have more experience than I and will have a more seasoned opinion/idea. Yes I've had my engine apart and back together again but that doesn't make me an expert, by any means.

The only way I would guess that end of the ims would fail is due to extremely low oil levels/pressure (which could be due to a blockage or just neglect). The bearing is an oil film, and is one of the very first places that get lubed after the oil pump in the oil path. Perhaps the 4-6 chain sprocket on the ims tube is lose or damaged?

My bet would be more on a spun bearing, perhaps chain/sprocket noise, or maybe something (obstruction of some sorts perhaps upstream or) is caught in that area, causing a lack of lubrication. If it happens every "so often" maybe that is more evidence towards a chain/sprocket or rod bearing related noise, since those would be periodic, whereas an IMS bearing (front end) or main bearing which might in theory be more constant.

You could pull the front main seal and drop the engine down a little, but there is very little room to "see through" the sides of the crank and case. Likewise if you pull the oil pump and have a look at the pump and front end of the ims shaft, very little room to do so without dropping the engine... and even then you can't have a look at the cam chains or sprockets without pulling the 4-6 case half off.

I hate to say it might be time to bite the bullet, but if you keep running it with the noise you might risk creating a situation that is not salvageable (meltdown), or figure on running it until it blows up, take the loss, and source a used engine perhaps (they seem to be dropping in price)?

It's a tough call... sorry about the bad news again.
Old 03-06-2012, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RPMulli
Logray, are there any known failures of the smaller bearing on the opposite side of the intermediate shaft? I know its not the roller type.
That's a plain (hydrodynamic) bearing just like the main/rod bearings. Extremely rare it would fail. (My info is the front main seal occasionally leaks though.)

I've been away from this thread a bit but IIRC you reported no metal in filter oil or filter element. If my memory is correct a bearing failure is, to me anyhow, an unlikely explanation for the noise you are hearing.

'course you'd probably then turn around and ask what is the source of the noise right now I have no idea.

One thing that comes to mind is sometimes when one gets to a dead end he needs to turn around and look anew at things he dismissed earlier.

Every step forward is based on the decision that what is being considered right now is not the source of the problem. If this decision is based on faulty data, or faulty testing, or faulty reasoning, or faulty 'net advice (ahem!)...

Sincerely,

Macster.
Old 03-07-2012, 02:42 AM
  #89  
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the ims front bearing is in the oilpumpframe.
Just remove catalysators and the backplate that hold's engine, and drain coolant.
Should be done about 4h....
I have a good used oilpump. I changed it when I was hunting the starting noises...
Old 03-07-2012, 02:44 AM
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Another thought, there has been reports about broken spings in the oilpump pressurevalve. Have you checked that?
So, before you teardown the whole engine, check the oilpump first.


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