RPMulli

I just replaced that big wire from the alternator last year. I think they are two separate problems since the flicker existed prior to storage. The voltage fluctuation occurred after I replaced the alternator.

Pac996

If the alternator is bought from porsche parts department I'd think they would look at replacing it to eliminate a bad alternator. At least they would over here after doing a diagnostic. Hawaii takes care of their owners. The guys working as mechanics buildup their own 911's and the service department manager besides a porsche he has a 67 chevelle SS in burgandy so he's cool just for that fact

RPMulli

I typically avoid the stealership, but it sounds like you have a good relationship with the place in HI. BTW: The alternator I bought is aftermarket. I swapped the new voltage regulator with the old Bosch regulator I had (since the bearing was shot in the alternator I replaced).

RPMulli

Crank pulley update:

I installed the pulley that Logan sent me and the sound it STILL there. I believe it must be sound that is amplified by the pulley through the crankshaft (hence why I cant hear the noise while the pulley is removed). I guess I will have to wait until I drop the motor to fix other items to diagnose this issue. Anyone have any other thoughts at this point? I know this thread is long!!

logray

Check for axial and radial play in the crank. If it's a thrust shim issue the crank will push forward and aft (but might not do it as much or be as apparent until the transmission is removed).

RPMulli

Didn't you have a thread where you were checking for crankshaft play?

logray

Yes "crank pulley wobble" or something like that.

But checking the axial play is tough, like I said with the engine and/or transmission in car.

You can measure radial play with a dial indicator with engine in car. You can try to push/pull it forward/aft by hand but it's hard to both get a grip on it as well as get a measurement. If you can "see" it move forward and aft by eye I would say there is a problem, but you might not be able to see it, and there still could be a problem (only revealed by close measurement.

dcdrechsel

Is the sound the same with the clutch pedal depressed ?

RPMulli

TBD.. I'll let you know when I check the crank for play tomorrow or tuesday.

RPMulli

Update: I checked for play in the crank, none. I pushed in the clutch pedal to see if the sound stops, noise is still there. I went to take of Logray's pulley and removed the bolt/washer. After sitting there for a minute, I was playing with the bolt and washer in my hand. Come to find out that the washer was very loose (worn) on the bolt and it made the same exact noise when the pulley was installed on the motor. The noise has the same metallic tone as in post #14 (first video). Compare both videos. Below is a video of the motor without the crank pulley and the bolt/washer.




Vs.


I think that the slight wobble in both pulleys combined with the worn washer is somehow moving the washer against the shank of the bolt. The sound is seriously identical and I did torque the bolt to spec. Thoughts?

logray

Can you use an articulating extension mirror and see if something is maybe wedged inside the the threads?

Can you thread the bolt all the way in the crank nose and can you feel any resistance when threading by hand?

If you turned the pulley bolt 90 degrees after the initial 37 ft lbs I would be very surprised if anything is moving around, it should be totally secured by the bolt and torque spec, with no movement whatsoever.

You're certain the nose on the crank is free of burrs, imperfections, as is the pulley mating surface, so the pulley is perfectly flat against the crank. The locating pin is not loose.

I don't believe the washer could get "thin" enough so to speak to where it wouldn't allow the bolt to secure the pulley, I think there might be enough threads past the length of the bolt + pulley to prevent that situation. It might be worth looking into though.

My old pulley definitely wasn't true, not as bad as yours - but it didn't make any noise on my engine, wish I would have sent you my old washer too.

Still, maybe it's worth a brand new pulley, washer, and bolt before you drop the engine?

RPMulli

The bolt does the thread completely into the crankshaft without anything else attached. There is a decent amount of axial play while the bolt is 1/2 to 3/4 threaded in (may be normal).

The noise is the exact same with either pulley on too. I had someone rev the engine up to 3k and the rattle noise increases with the engine rpm. I was listening to examples of rod knock and spun bearings last night and my engine does not make the same noises. Wouldn't I hear the noise from somewhere along the middle of the engine from underneath?

logray

Listening to the first video without the pulley it's really hard to make out but it almost sounds like the noise is still there, albeit very faint, the higher pitched tinny sounding clicking.

Then with the pulley on perhaps it is amplifying the noise as you pointed out earlier.

There is a main crank bearing just an inch or so behind the front main seal, and a rod right behind that. The right end of the pic is the front main seal bore. You're right though your noise doesn't sound like a spun bearing to me.

dcdrechsel

Generally a rattle is more associated with the chains and related hardware-although a catalytic converter can also rattle . .A rod knock is pretty distinctice .Since the crank does not appear to have excessive play the IMS has to be suspect .That being the case don't know if it is a good idea to run the engine .

RPMulli

Yeah Ive been studying the internals of the engine lately. Great teardown pics on Pelican! It has been tough since all my of my equipment is in storage. I ran out and grabbed my rhino ramps and I am going to lay under the engine and see if I can pinpoint a faint noise elsewhere. Updates to come.

The noise does get significantly louder around 3k rpm. Isn't that when the variocam solenoid actuates? It doesn't seem valvetrain related though.