Clank noise from Crank pulley & Lights flicker (video) Help!
#31
I picked up a Durametric reader real soon after getting my car so that things like this would be easier to chase. I suggest getting one of those so that if anything is showing up it might give clues to where the bad info or parts get noticed. You can also read live reports on what outputs are from darn near everything in the car.
#32
I would remove certain main wrie terminals like grounds, clean and reinstall. Also the positive cable from battery at both ends, clean and reinstall. Key ignition switch might be suspect too. I have a 66 mustang and years ago the lights etc would do what you have, well it turned out to be the headlight on/off switch was over heating so it was cycling bright/dim as it cooled and heated up. Probably not your issue but thought I'd share.
#33
I would remove certain main wrie terminals like grounds, clean and reinstall. Also the positive cable from battery at both ends, clean and reinstall. Key ignition switch might be suspect too. I have a 66 mustang and years ago the lights etc would do what you have, well it turned out to be the headlight on/off switch was over heating so it was cycling bright/dim as it cooled and heated up. Probably not your issue but thought I'd share.
I did remove, clean and replace the cables for the battery and engine. Any thoughts on the clanking noise?
#34
I will do some reading and thinking on that and let ya know. Wonder if you gave Jake Raby at flat6 a call or shoot him an email he might be able to help too. He is after all the guru!
#35
Three Wheelin'
Regarding the noise. I would start with the "simple stuff" and move to the "worse cases".
Perhaps try rotating the engine by hand, can you hear it make the same noise?
Remove the flywheel pulley and see if there is something stuck behind it or any wear marks on the back side.
Very very briefly run the engine without the flywheel pulley, does it still make the noise?
Does it matter if the engine is cold or hot?
You're certain it's not coming from the oil pump console just beneath the crankshaft?
Then we move on to the less happy stuff...
4-6 chain "slapping" or hitting something (perhaps 4-6 tensoiner is busted?) What are your cam deviation readings?
Could it be a spun rod or main bearing? SpeedrII had a method to test for a bad rod bearing with engine in car, it's in another recent thread, I'll dig it up later if you can't find it.
Perhaps the thrust shims have given way, is there excess lateral play in the crankshaft? (not as easy to test unless you remove the transmission).
Other than that my guess is something might be hitting something inside the bearing carrier.
I hope the problem is in the "simple list".
Perhaps try rotating the engine by hand, can you hear it make the same noise?
Remove the flywheel pulley and see if there is something stuck behind it or any wear marks on the back side.
Very very briefly run the engine without the flywheel pulley, does it still make the noise?
Does it matter if the engine is cold or hot?
You're certain it's not coming from the oil pump console just beneath the crankshaft?
Then we move on to the less happy stuff...
4-6 chain "slapping" or hitting something (perhaps 4-6 tensoiner is busted?) What are your cam deviation readings?
Could it be a spun rod or main bearing? SpeedrII had a method to test for a bad rod bearing with engine in car, it's in another recent thread, I'll dig it up later if you can't find it.
Perhaps the thrust shims have given way, is there excess lateral play in the crankshaft? (not as easy to test unless you remove the transmission).
Other than that my guess is something might be hitting something inside the bearing carrier.
I hope the problem is in the "simple list".
#36
Race Director
Update on electrical issue: I looked at the major wiring harnesses, battery cables, relays again. I tested the battery while the car was idling and it showed 13.75 to 13.92 volts. Appears to be normal to me. I took the car for a drive and the voltage is smoothing out. At idle i now see the largest fluctuations on my gauge and the engine idle flucuations as well.
Update on clank: I tightened all the spark plugs again. #2 and #4 were the only plugs slightly off torque. No changes with the clank. I pulled the serpentine belt off again and used my stethoscope on the entire motor. The clank is CLEARLY coming from the crank pulley. I inspected behind the pulley and it was clear minus the slight dampening of oil. I am stumped. I took the car out for a nice drive (5-10 mins) and the sound is still there. I wonder if the sound is coming from the crankshaft and I am hearing the sound amplified on the pulley??? Ideas at this point??
Update on clank: I tightened all the spark plugs again. #2 and #4 were the only plugs slightly off torque. No changes with the clank. I pulled the serpentine belt off again and used my stethoscope on the entire motor. The clank is CLEARLY coming from the crank pulley. I inspected behind the pulley and it was clear minus the slight dampening of oil. I am stumped. I took the car out for a nice drive (5-10 mins) and the sound is still there. I wonder if the sound is coming from the crankshaft and I am hearing the sound amplified on the pulley??? Ideas at this point??
The noise will almost certainly not go away on its own and whatever is going on will almost certainly get worse.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#37
Regarding the noise. I would start with the "simple stuff" and move to the "worse cases".
Perhaps try rotating the engine by hand, can you hear it make the same noise?
Remove the flywheel pulley and see if there is something stuck behind it or any wear marks on the back side.
Very very briefly run the engine without the flywheel pulley, does it still make the noise?
Does it matter if the engine is cold or hot?
You're certain it's not coming from the oil pump console just beneath the crankshaft?
Then we move on to the less happy stuff...
4-6 chain "slapping" or hitting something (perhaps 4-6 tensoiner is busted?) What are your cam deviation readings?
Could it be a spun rod or main bearing? SpeedrII had a method to test for a bad rod bearing with engine in car, it's in another recent thread, I'll dig it up later if you can't find it.
Perhaps the thrust shims have given way, is there excess lateral play in the crankshaft? (not as easy to test unless you remove the transmission).
Other than that my guess is something might be hitting something inside the bearing carrier.
I hope the problem is in the "simple list".
Perhaps try rotating the engine by hand, can you hear it make the same noise?
Remove the flywheel pulley and see if there is something stuck behind it or any wear marks on the back side.
Very very briefly run the engine without the flywheel pulley, does it still make the noise?
Does it matter if the engine is cold or hot?
You're certain it's not coming from the oil pump console just beneath the crankshaft?
Then we move on to the less happy stuff...
4-6 chain "slapping" or hitting something (perhaps 4-6 tensoiner is busted?) What are your cam deviation readings?
Could it be a spun rod or main bearing? SpeedrII had a method to test for a bad rod bearing with engine in car, it's in another recent thread, I'll dig it up later if you can't find it.
Perhaps the thrust shims have given way, is there excess lateral play in the crankshaft? (not as easy to test unless you remove the transmission).
Other than that my guess is something might be hitting something inside the bearing carrier.
I hope the problem is in the "simple list".
What leads you to believe that it would be 4-6 tensioner versus the other two? If you could dig up that method to test for a spun bearing that would be excellent. Ill post updates as soon as I can. Thanks!
#38
If you're sure the noise is not coming from the pulley because it is loose, or cracked/split, or has something rubbing against it, if you're sure the noise is coming from inside the engine, and if you're sure that something at the other end of the engine is not making the noise (say a flywheel or some kind of clutch problem even if it is just a noisy clutch disc on the input shaft spiines, even a noisy transmission input shaft) the only idea I can offer at this time you should think about turning the problem and the diagnosis over to a pro unless you want to continue to tackle this yourself.
The noise will almost certainly not go away on its own and whatever is going on will almost certainly get worse.
Sincerely,
Macster.
The noise will almost certainly not go away on its own and whatever is going on will almost certainly get worse.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#39
Three Wheelin'
The long 4-6 chain from the IMS tube right below the crankshaft is on the same side as the crank pulley, therefore the reason why I might suspect that as a possibility. Perhaps if the chain has too much slack, or other chain/sprocket issue the noise would be apparent there.
Here is the post regarding checking rod bearing play:
https://rennlist.com/forums/9299331-post4.html
#40
Yes sorry I meant crank pulley (front of engine). Maybe/hopefully it's something as simple as you dropped a bolt while doing the alternator R&R.
The long 4-6 chain from the IMS tube right below the crankshaft is on the same side as the crank pulley, therefore the reason why I might suspect that as a possibility. Perhaps if the chain has too much slack, or other chain/sprocket issue the noise would be apparent there.
Here is the post regarding checking rod bearing play:
https://rennlist.com/forums/9299331-post4.html
The long 4-6 chain from the IMS tube right below the crankshaft is on the same side as the crank pulley, therefore the reason why I might suspect that as a possibility. Perhaps if the chain has too much slack, or other chain/sprocket issue the noise would be apparent there.
Here is the post regarding checking rod bearing play:
https://rennlist.com/forums/9299331-post4.html
#41
Three Wheelin'
Pulling the 4-6 tensioner is not simple, you have to remove the air conditioner compressor, also the engine should be locked at TDC. If it were me I would start with the easier stuff first. For example removing the crank pulley is not very complicated.
#43
Race Director
Sincerely,
Macster.
#44
Race Director
I assume you are talking about the crank pulley not the flywheel? The noise is more noticeable when the when is warm. I will remove the pulley this weekend or early next week and inspect the area as well as the oil pump console.
What leads you to believe that it would be 4-6 tensioner versus the other two? If you could dig up that method to test for a spun bearing that would be excellent. Ill post updates as soon as I can. Thanks!
What leads you to believe that it would be 4-6 tensioner versus the other two? If you could dig up that method to test for a spun bearing that would be excellent. Ill post updates as soon as I can. Thanks!
The drives are located at opposite ends of the engine. I haven't checked but I believe for Bank #2, cylinders 4-6, the IMS to exhaust camchain drive is located at the serpentine/accessory drive end of the engine and thus the guides/tensioner that controls this chain is there too. The #1 Bank, cylinders 1-3, have its IMS to exhaust cam chain drive located at the other end of the engine, and of course on the other side.
For a spun bearing if you found no metal bits in filter housing oil or the filter element and an oil analysis turned up no bearing metal in the oil, the odds are very high the engine does not have a spun bearing.
A 'test' is to measure the oil pressure. A spun bearing will represent a big (internal) oil leak and oil pressure will almost certainly be down from nominal.
How much down I do not know. I have never tested a healthy engine's oil pressure and have no baseline.
You have to be careful you don't go too far afield in trying to isolate/diagnose this noise.
The first rule of working on your car is do no harm, not to yourself, to anyone else, but also do no harm to the car.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#45
Three Wheelin'