Clank noise from Crank pulley & Lights flicker (video) Help!
03-07-2012, 09:27 PM
#106
Three Wheelin'
Hey Ryan, sorry been busy just got your PM. I can mail it to you tomorrow. I think you can get a new pulley for about $75 or $80 from sunset or sonnen (shipping not included).
I mean the passenger footwell. The MAIN fuses are in a small plastic box behind the dashboard bolted on the trunk wall. The postive lead from the battery is a short wire that bolts direclty into this fuse box. Then distributes the power to various spots in the car. Then there is a very long long power cable that goes under the center console out a grommet in front of the transmission on the top of the well to a small junction box above the bell housing (psngr side).
You can test your igntion coils with a multi meter and inspect for cracks, here is the misfire troubleshooting guide with the proper ohm readings (page 6).
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...ttach_id=24613
In my case, I'm on my second set of coils since the car was new. Flickering went away after doing the work I outlined above, same coils before/after flickering.
03-07-2012, 11:21 PM
#107
Awesome! I had no idea that there was a junction/fuses located there (shop manual online doesn't show it). This may be the source of my electrical issue. IIRC, a few years ago the weather stripping on the cowling below my windshield was torn and it allowed water to leak onto my floor (passenger side). I will check it out tomorrow.
PS: It appears no one else in the forum wants to touch this thread!
PS: It appears no one else in the forum wants to touch this thread!
03-07-2012, 11:31 PM
#108
Three Wheelin'
I would lean towards something exposed to the elements, the main fuse box is pretty well sealed up, as are most of the other points in the car, aside from the ground on the engine, and the engine power mains.
GL, that fuse box is a pain in the back to get to, would be surprised if that's your problem.
I took the "take no prisoners" attitude and replaced all of the major power leads. It's a huge pain in the neck and back to replace the long power lead from that fuse box to the junction above the transmission. And then the wire from there to the engine. Don't know if I would have done it if the engine and trans were not dropped.
GL, that fuse box is a pain in the back to get to, would be surprised if that's your problem.
I took the "take no prisoners" attitude and replaced all of the major power leads. It's a huge pain in the neck and back to replace the long power lead from that fuse box to the junction above the transmission. And then the wire from there to the engine. Don't know if I would have done it if the engine and trans were not dropped.
03-08-2012, 09:00 AM
#109
I would lean towards something exposed to the elements, the main fuse box is pretty well sealed up, as are most of the other points in the car, aside from the ground on the engine, and the engine power mains.
GL, that fuse box is a pain in the back to get to, would be surprised if that's your problem.
I took the "take no prisoners" attitude and replaced all of the major power leads. It's a huge pain in the neck and back to replace the long power lead from that fuse box to the junction above the transmission. And then the wire from there to the engine. Don't know if I would have done it if the engine and trans were not dropped.
GL, that fuse box is a pain in the back to get to, would be surprised if that's your problem.
I took the "take no prisoners" attitude and replaced all of the major power leads. It's a huge pain in the neck and back to replace the long power lead from that fuse box to the junction above the transmission. And then the wire from there to the engine. Don't know if I would have done it if the engine and trans were not dropped.
03-08-2012, 06:52 PM
#110
That box is impossible to get to without taking out the blower for the a/c. Today I took advantage of the 70 degree weather and had to wash the car. Tomorrow I will test my ignition coils for proper resistance.
03-08-2012, 07:28 PM
#111
Race Director
Also, be sure you use the brakes hard enough -- do not come to a complete stop! -- to remove all of the rust.
Once you've done this then you can bring the car to a stop and the hot brake hardware will not interact with the rust dust to possibly cause pulsing brakes.
Sincerely,
Macster.
03-08-2012, 09:53 PM
#113
03-08-2012, 10:19 PM
#114
Three Wheelin'
Once you remove the bolts and primary wire from the trunk side, you can push the box from the trunk area (via the studs) into the passenger compartment.
Then from the footwell, with a little care the box will slightly deform the plastic and carpet surrounding the a/c blower and wall when you pull on it, being careful with the wires, it will "slide out" of the stud holes and you can pull it down into the footwell.
It's certainly not and easy thing to do, and I would hate for you to go through the trouble unless you intend to replace the long cable from there to the junction point in the transmission well above the bell housing (which is an entirely different story/pain in the ***). Chances are that box is totally sealed and "factory fresh", given it's location, unless perhaps the car was flooded.
Then from the footwell, with a little care the box will slightly deform the plastic and carpet surrounding the a/c blower and wall when you pull on it, being careful with the wires, it will "slide out" of the stud holes and you can pull it down into the footwell.
It's certainly not and easy thing to do, and I would hate for you to go through the trouble unless you intend to replace the long cable from there to the junction point in the transmission well above the bell housing (which is an entirely different story/pain in the ***). Chances are that box is totally sealed and "factory fresh", given it's location, unless perhaps the car was flooded.
03-09-2012, 12:06 AM
#115
Once you remove the bolts and primary wire from the trunk side, you can push the box from the trunk area (via the studs) into the passenger compartment.
Then from the footwell, with a little care the box will slightly deform the plastic and carpet surrounding the a/c blower and wall when you pull on it, being careful with the wires, it will "slide out" of the stud holes and you can pull it down into the footwell.
It's certainly not and easy thing to do, and I would hate for you to go through the trouble unless you intend to replace the long cable from there to the junction point in the transmission well above the bell housing (which is an entirely different story/pain in the ***). Chances are that box is totally sealed and "factory fresh", given it's location, unless perhaps the car was flooded.
Then from the footwell, with a little care the box will slightly deform the plastic and carpet surrounding the a/c blower and wall when you pull on it, being careful with the wires, it will "slide out" of the stud holes and you can pull it down into the footwell.
It's certainly not and easy thing to do, and I would hate for you to go through the trouble unless you intend to replace the long cable from there to the junction point in the transmission well above the bell housing (which is an entirely different story/pain in the ***). Chances are that box is totally sealed and "factory fresh", given it's location, unless perhaps the car was flooded.
(Ignition switch - off) As soon as I open my car door the overhead light flickers (not a consistent pulsing) almost as if a wire is loose. My battery volts are a constant 12.53-12.56 without a key in the ignition at the battery terminals and each fuse in the fuse box in the drivers foot well.
(Ignition switch - on + car running at idle) The instrument cluster lights continue to flicker as does the overhead interior light when I turn it on. As you can see from my first video on my dash the voltage gauge fluctuates as well. The car also seems to stumble slightly in conjunction with the voltage drop.
(Ignition switch - on + driving) The volts gauge is stable (around 14v) and the engine stumble is gone.
Since the voltage is stable at the fuse box what could cause the voltage/power to fluctuate between the box and the component (ie interior/cluster lighting)? Bad ground for the fuse box? What grounding points are associated with the box? depends on the component?
I was reading the wiring diagrams and the ground point locations in the car are not easily identified in the manual. Any ideas where GP1-GP14 are located to include the "Ground Electronic" and "Body Engine Ground"? I already checked the battery ground and ground wire located on the 4-6 bank from the engine to body.
03-09-2012, 04:13 PM
#116
Another update: I checked the resistance on the coils. They read .06 ohm across the board which is in tolerance. I was able to look at the grounds attached to the frame behind the dash (GP3, GP4 and Electronic ground). No corrosion on either. I am about to start the car after I put the coils back in and pull the fuses one by one. I NEED to pinpoint this electrical problem! 
03-09-2012, 04:37 PM
#117
Three Wheelin'
...(Ignition switch - off) As soon as I open my car door the overhead light flickers (not a consistent pulsing) almost as if a wire is loose. My battery volts are a constant 12.53-12.56 without a key in the ignition at the battery terminals and each fuse in the fuse box in the drivers foot well.
...(Ignition switch - on + car running at idle) The instrument cluster lights continue to flicker as does the overhead interior light when I turn it on. As you can see from my first video on my dash the voltage gauge fluctuates as well. The car also seems to stumble slightly in conjunction with the voltage drop.
...I was reading the wiring diagrams and the ground point locations in the car are not easily identified in the manual. Any ideas where GP1-GP14 are located to include the "Ground Electronic" and "Body Engine Ground"? I already checked the battery ground and ground wire located on the 4-6 bank from the engine to body.
Pulling the fuses is a good idea to isolate, unless of course the problem is the ign switch.
Also, you can inspect and clean the two main ground points on the engine, one on the rear of the 1-3 head (front of car) and another on the front of the 4-6 head (rear of car). Those grounds are secured by a small bolt and a ring terminal, with a bunch of ground wires coming out of it.
03-09-2012, 05:22 PM
#118
Remind me again, did you replace the entire ignition switch assembly (~$100-200 part) or just the cheap part? $15 part. There have been reports of people not having their ign. switch related problems fully resolved (problem keeps coming back with cheap part) until the entire assembly is replaced.
This sounds like a bad regulator or high resistance somewhere. But I know you replaced the alternator and also had it tested later right? One way to rule out some primary wires is with a good quality set of jumper cables. You can "bypass" various primary leads and see if the problem goes away.
This is normal.
I don't think the box itself is grounded. Also just because the voltage is steady, I wouldn't rule out the main power leads or main ground cables (or even alternator/regulator).
GP1 to GP14 are all throughout the car. Did you replace that main engine ground strap or just test it's resistance (the one at the engine).
Pulling the fuses is a good idea to isolate, unless of course the problem is the ign switch.
Also, you can inspect and clean the two main ground points on the engine, one on the rear of the 1-3 head (front of car) and another on the front of the 4-6 head (rear of car). Those grounds are secured by a small bolt and a ring terminal, with a bunch of ground wires coming out of it.
This sounds like a bad regulator or high resistance somewhere. But I know you replaced the alternator and also had it tested later right? One way to rule out some primary wires is with a good quality set of jumper cables. You can "bypass" various primary leads and see if the problem goes away.
This is normal.
I don't think the box itself is grounded. Also just because the voltage is steady, I wouldn't rule out the main power leads or main ground cables (or even alternator/regulator).
GP1 to GP14 are all throughout the car. Did you replace that main engine ground strap or just test it's resistance (the one at the engine).
Pulling the fuses is a good idea to isolate, unless of course the problem is the ign switch.
Also, you can inspect and clean the two main ground points on the engine, one on the rear of the 1-3 head (front of car) and another on the front of the 4-6 head (rear of car). Those grounds are secured by a small bolt and a ring terminal, with a bunch of ground wires coming out of it.
03-09-2012, 07:53 PM
#119
Alright, I think we have a breakthrough here.... I just decided to swap my old voltage regulator into my new alternator and VOILA. My voltage gauge fluctuation is fixed. Although the lights flicker when the ignition is off slightly. Its progress atleast..
03-09-2012, 09:22 PM
#120
Maybe that points to an around or in the alternator wire having a bad connection. It's still there just moving things made better contact. Some guys give up and pull on the wire which is bad. Wire can look great but wire especially old wire doesn't stretch while the plastic cover will.