Clank noise from Crank pulley & Lights flicker (video) Help!
02-26-2012, 05:00 PM
#46
I am not showing any significant drop in oil pressure that I am aware of. I changed the oil prior to storage and only found 2-3 tiny silver flakes. (could have been from the drain plug) Based on that info and what Macster mentioned above, it seems unlikely that I spun a bearing. (I hope)
Tomorrow, I will be removing the crank pulley, checking for noises by the transmission and removing the 4-6 tensioner for inspection.
BTW: I changed my user name from r1de23 to RPMulli in case no one noticed
Tomorrow, I will be removing the crank pulley, checking for noises by the transmission and removing the 4-6 tensioner for inspection.
BTW: I changed my user name from r1de23 to RPMulli in case no one noticed
02-27-2012, 06:48 PM
#48
UPDATE: I decided to head straight for the a/c compressor in order to remove the 4-6 tensioner. What a PITA! I realized that there are fuel lines connected to the back and wrestling with it for an hour! I had to remove the TB, power steering reservoir, and y-pipe in order to access the lines... Finally got it out and I noticed some wires sticking out of the block. I found out that the oil level sensor is located below the compressor and I broke it off! I guess I need a new one. I pulled the tensioner out and it appeared to be in decent condition. What do you think? I also found a wire (yellow) that was leading from the starter solenoid that was chaffing. This may be the culprit to my electrical shortage/pulsing. Pics attached....
02-27-2012, 06:57 PM
#50
Three Wheelin'
There is some scoring on the tensioner, which usually is recommended to replace if there is scoring. Is it very easy to depress like the spring has broken? You can also put it in a tub of fresh oil and pump it until it gets stiff to make sure the internals are clean. Still though if it checks out ok, that was just an idea... and good you checked, but might not be the source of the noise. Did you remove the crank pulley?
Yes the lead that goes from alternator to starter to jump point in engine bay is often corroded and can be the cause of a weak electrical system.
Yes the lead that goes from alternator to starter to jump point in engine bay is often corroded and can be the cause of a weak electrical system.
02-27-2012, 07:04 PM
#51
There is some scoring on the tensioner, which usually is recommended to replace if there is scoring. Is it very easy to depress like the spring has broken? You can also put it in a tub of fresh oil and pump it until it gets stiff to make sure the internals are clean. Still though if it checks out ok, that was just an idea... and good you checked, but might not be the source of the noise. Did you remove the crank pulley?
Yes the lead that goes from alternator to starter to jump point in engine bay is often corroded and can be the cause of a weak electrical system.
Yes the lead that goes from alternator to starter to jump point in engine bay is often corroded and can be the cause of a weak electrical system.
PS. I did not remove the pulley. I didn't want to remove the pulley while the tensioner is out. OR do you think it would be okay?
02-27-2012, 07:15 PM
#53
Three Wheelin'
Oh you mean the starter solenoid lead... I would clean it up with some sandpaper, reattach and cover with some dielectric grease. I meant actually the larger main power wire that attaches below that one, is can become corroded and the source of many electrical woes.
You should be able to press in the tensioner. But it shouldn't just collapse in without force, likewise the piston should not pop out (of course if it already did that would have already caused a problem). It sounds like it's OK, but if you are going to replace it sounds good too.
As for the correct P/N to use, TSB 1551 only applies to the IMS paddle tensioner. For the 4-6 tensioner, use whatever the latest superseded part is. It requires a 12mm hex/allen socket instead of the 32mm socket.
If the tensioner is out, you can remove the pulley as long as it is already locked at TDC (set pin). But I wouldn't rotate the engine with the tensioner out to get it to TDC so you can remove the pulley, wait until you have that tensioner back in.
You should be able to press in the tensioner. But it shouldn't just collapse in without force, likewise the piston should not pop out (of course if it already did that would have already caused a problem). It sounds like it's OK, but if you are going to replace it sounds good too.
As for the correct P/N to use, TSB 1551 only applies to the IMS paddle tensioner. For the 4-6 tensioner, use whatever the latest superseded part is. It requires a 12mm hex/allen socket instead of the 32mm socket.
If the tensioner is out, you can remove the pulley as long as it is already locked at TDC (set pin). But I wouldn't rotate the engine with the tensioner out to get it to TDC so you can remove the pulley, wait until you have that tensioner back in.
02-27-2012, 07:24 PM
#54
Oh you mean the starter solenoid lead... I would clean it up with some sandpaper, reattach and cover with some dielectric grease. I meant actually the larger main power wire that attaches below that one, is can become corroded and the source of many electrical woes.
You should be able to press in the tensioner. But it shouldn't just collapse in without force, likewise the piston should not pop out (of course if it already did that would have already caused a problem). It sounds like it's OK, but if you are going to replace it sounds good too.
As for the correct P/N to use, TSB 1551 only applies to the IMS paddle tensioner. For the 4-6 tensioner, use whatever the latest superseded part is. It requires a 12mm hex/allen socket instead of the 32mm socket.
If the tensioner is out, you can remove the pulley as long as it is already locked at TDC (set pin). But I wouldn't rotate the engine with the tensioner out to get it to TDC so you can remove the pulley, wait until you have that tensioner back in.
You should be able to press in the tensioner. But it shouldn't just collapse in without force, likewise the piston should not pop out (of course if it already did that would have already caused a problem). It sounds like it's OK, but if you are going to replace it sounds good too.
As for the correct P/N to use, TSB 1551 only applies to the IMS paddle tensioner. For the 4-6 tensioner, use whatever the latest superseded part is. It requires a 12mm hex/allen socket instead of the 32mm socket.
If the tensioner is out, you can remove the pulley as long as it is already locked at TDC (set pin). But I wouldn't rotate the engine with the tensioner out to get it to TDC so you can remove the pulley, wait until you have that tensioner back in.
02-27-2012, 07:34 PM
#55
Three Wheelin'
Also the WSM says to replace the pulley bolt any time you remove it.
If the sound is coming from the inside, and the tensioner looked OK, chances are the noise will still be there.
Hopefully there is just something wedged in behind the pulley.
If the sound is coming from the inside, and the tensioner looked OK, chances are the noise will still be there.
Hopefully there is just something wedged in behind the pulley.
02-27-2012, 08:16 PM
#56
Yes, I am hoping it isn't something internal...
02-27-2012, 09:39 PM
#57
Parts ordered.. ignition switch, oil level sender, 4-6 chain tensioner and bolt for the crank pulley. Should be here by Mid-next week. I will post updates regarding the crank pulley tomorrow.
02-27-2012, 10:00 PM
#58
Three Wheelin'
Sorry in advance for the sobering look at this...
Even if it is internal, think worst case, you have a salvageable core. Which is much more valuable than an engine that is toast.
I think Macster said it best, perhaps in this thread... if it is internal, the engine should not be run or if it is run only in the hands of a pro that can diagnose what the problem is. When you run the engine with these types of noises and something goes kaboom you are left with nothing in a lot of cases. Unless you are feeling adventurous and want to tear into it yourself.
Another thing you might want to consider is dropping the sump plate. There are a couple largish holes from the sump into the crank/bearing carrier area which perhaps you could "see" where the noise is coming from, you get a view of the mid section of the crank/rod/bearing carrier. But even then if you see or don't see it might still mean tear down.
I hate to be fatalistic about this stuff, but this is the reality of the situation, I'm still hoping for something simple.
Another thing that could be done without totally tearing the engine apart is removing the oil pump cover to inspect, although I think the console requires the engine to be dropped, and even then you can't see a whole lot, only the other end of the ims tube, maybe there is something caught in the oil pump? Doubtful.
You don't really start to see the internals until you pull the heads and pop off the 4-6 case half.
Also boroscope might be a good idea, but if the noise is clearly coming from the bearing carrier/crank then you are probably looking at rod, crank, or bearing noise.
Even if it is internal, think worst case, you have a salvageable core. Which is much more valuable than an engine that is toast.
I think Macster said it best, perhaps in this thread... if it is internal, the engine should not be run or if it is run only in the hands of a pro that can diagnose what the problem is. When you run the engine with these types of noises and something goes kaboom you are left with nothing in a lot of cases. Unless you are feeling adventurous and want to tear into it yourself.
Another thing you might want to consider is dropping the sump plate. There are a couple largish holes from the sump into the crank/bearing carrier area which perhaps you could "see" where the noise is coming from, you get a view of the mid section of the crank/rod/bearing carrier. But even then if you see or don't see it might still mean tear down.
I hate to be fatalistic about this stuff, but this is the reality of the situation, I'm still hoping for something simple.
Another thing that could be done without totally tearing the engine apart is removing the oil pump cover to inspect, although I think the console requires the engine to be dropped, and even then you can't see a whole lot, only the other end of the ims tube, maybe there is something caught in the oil pump? Doubtful.
You don't really start to see the internals until you pull the heads and pop off the 4-6 case half.
Also boroscope might be a good idea, but if the noise is clearly coming from the bearing carrier/crank then you are probably looking at rod, crank, or bearing noise.
02-28-2012, 12:26 AM
#59
Sorry in advance for the sobering look at this...
Even if it is internal, think worst case, you have a salvageable core. Which is much more valuable than an engine that is toast.
I think Macster said it best, perhaps in this thread... if it is internal, the engine should not be run or if it is run only in the hands of a pro that can diagnose what the problem is. When you run the engine with these types of noises and something goes kaboom you are left with nothing in a lot of cases. Unless you are feeling adventurous and want to tear into it yourself.
Another thing you might want to consider is dropping the sump plate. There are a couple largish holes from the sump into the crank/bearing carrier area which perhaps you could "see" where the noise is coming from, you get a view of the mid section of the crank/rod/bearing carrier. But even then if you see or don't see it might still mean tear down.
I hate to be fatalistic about this stuff, but this is the reality of the situation, I'm still hoping for something simple.
Another thing that could be done without totally tearing the engine apart is removing the oil pump cover to inspect, although I think the console requires the engine to be dropped, and even then you can't see a whole lot, only the other end of the ims tube, maybe there is something caught in the oil pump? Doubtful.
You don't really start to see the internals until you pull the heads and pop off the 4-6 case half.
Also boroscope might be a good idea, but if the noise is clearly coming from the bearing carrier/crank then you are probably looking at rod, crank, or bearing noise.
Even if it is internal, think worst case, you have a salvageable core. Which is much more valuable than an engine that is toast.
I think Macster said it best, perhaps in this thread... if it is internal, the engine should not be run or if it is run only in the hands of a pro that can diagnose what the problem is. When you run the engine with these types of noises and something goes kaboom you are left with nothing in a lot of cases. Unless you are feeling adventurous and want to tear into it yourself.
Another thing you might want to consider is dropping the sump plate. There are a couple largish holes from the sump into the crank/bearing carrier area which perhaps you could "see" where the noise is coming from, you get a view of the mid section of the crank/rod/bearing carrier. But even then if you see or don't see it might still mean tear down.
I hate to be fatalistic about this stuff, but this is the reality of the situation, I'm still hoping for something simple.
Another thing that could be done without totally tearing the engine apart is removing the oil pump cover to inspect, although I think the console requires the engine to be dropped, and even then you can't see a whole lot, only the other end of the ims tube, maybe there is something caught in the oil pump? Doubtful.
You don't really start to see the internals until you pull the heads and pop off the 4-6 case half.
Also boroscope might be a good idea, but if the noise is clearly coming from the bearing carrier/crank then you are probably looking at rod, crank, or bearing noise.
02-28-2012, 05:22 PM
#60
Update: I pulled off the crank pulley and I may have found the source of my noise. There was a bolt that was jammed between the block and the bracket below the pulley. Since the noise was intermittent, it is possible that the bolt would dislodge and hit the pulley then fall back into place. Anyone have any idea where this came from?
FYI- I dumped power steering fluid down the front of the engine while removing the reservoir.
FYI- I dumped power steering fluid down the front of the engine while removing the reservoir.