318touring

That was the protective plate and not the sump plate the dude removed.

Barn996

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. many of us have struggled with certain fixes for our Porsches. What you have done is not hard to fix with some guidance. Chalk it up as a learning experience and don't sweat it.

Zookie

dont forget to remove your front bumper to change your AC Filter :P

Barn996

So Zookie, you've never made a mistake?

Zookie

once, i put it in the wrong hole, she was not too happy...

pesuazo

I must say......I could not stop laughing when I saw the pictures on your first attempt to do an oil change....no serious harm was done.
You have gotten good advice from the guys in the forum....you are entitled to make mistakes (specially on your own car), but be aware that some mistakes could be very expensive. Ask questions, use the search button, and inform yourself well (read, read, read) before taking on the next task....

pesuazo

Now I am laughing reaaaally hard.....LMAO

Pac996

He sure has. Like when he removed his front bumper to change the A/C filter

Actually it's a good thing you got the pan off since it has you getting all the oil cleaned up eliminating any old oil that would of hung around in the system just pulling the plug.

scottiemac

You're kidding right. Take another look at the picture

OGWGFIW

318touring meant the dude in the video.

scottiemac

Hey Mike. Don't sweat some of the opinions you hear on this forum. Sometimes it's a bit like a frat house - you need thick skin. The upside is there are actually a number of people that will give you some good (and correct) advise. The others just have nothing better to do than sit around in the safety of their parents basement and pass judgement.
To your oil change problem, I would seek some professional help in getting the bottom end of your engine back together otherwise you may end up with a source of constant leaks. Have it flat-bedded to a shop and they can put you back in business quickly. One of the posters commented that maybe this is a good thing as it will let you clean any sludge off the sump cover. He's right.
Cheers, Scott

fpb111

Post a pic of the muffler bolt that you are having trouble with.
To remove a muffler there are two bolts on the sliding sleeve that is between the muffler input side and the cat. You must loosen both bolts and slide the clamp towards the cat. There are three nuts on the muffler that hold it to the engine bracket. Take them off and the muffler will slide down and out toward the front of the car. I find it easier to take the wheel off to get more clearance some folks do it with the wheel in place. YMMV

Pic of muffler to see the three mounting studs, these mufflers are getting the Fister stage 1 PSE hack it has been refined since then. http://www.fdmotorsports.net/index_files/Page732.htm

groovzilla

i would take C4CRNA's advise and take the car to a mechanic to have the sump plate gasket installed and replaced properly, and to have the soark plugs replaced.

everyone screws up at some point.

Torontoworker

Too bad you didn't come here first Mike before your began this exercise. But everything is a learning experience so don't stress out too much about it. You didn't say why your removing the wheels? Make sure you use the pin in the tool bag when putting the rims back on - it makes life so much easier. The plug change isn't necessarily hard on a 996 but there are a few issues to be aware of. Use a spray on bolt remover the day before you intend to remove the plates (2) that cover the plugs. There are two small bolts that because of their location tend to get more corrosion on them from water and road salt.

Check the maintenance logs of the car to see when the last time the coils were changed - over 100k or 6 years and you may as well do them as insurance. When you get them exposed <if not high mileage> - check for cracks on top and on the sides or general appearance. Depending on mileage of your car - they may be original. It may be a good time to change them all. Inspect the tubes and O rings while your there. They are tricky to remove <you'll need a home made tool to jam inside/expand to pop them out> and you may crack one getting them out as the plastic is bridle after a lot of mileage so the cost for the tubes and O rings is dirt cheap so maybe just go whole hog and do the coils, tubes, O rings and plugs. Getting the passenger side plugs out is easier then drivers side - the worst being front drivers side. Some people remove one header but I just bought the proper tools and only skinned my knuckles twice... <grin> Be very careful of the little allen head screws that hold the coil packs on. It's easy to 'round' the hex. Don't use a slow stead movement to unscrew them - give them a tap with a hammer to seat the allen tool and quick 'snap' of your wrist to free them. Use a socket wrench with the allen key - never use those little allen keys - you'll regret it...
Make sure you have a deep enough socket for the plugs - make sure it's fully seated before you begin to remove the plugs - leverage is your friend. <hint> Buy your self a sidewinder wrench and articulated socket extensions help around the header pipes. You'll need a torque wrench when you replace the new plugs <make sure you know how to use one first> and buy a plug socket that holds the plugs when removing or replacing them. Some buy magnetic some buy a friction fit rubber lined. Your choice.

Take your time. Come across a plug that just won't come out? Don't panic and don't force it. Put the rest in and then drive over to an indy and have him remove it rather then you snapping off an insulator or cross treading the cly boss. Always screw the plugs in with your fingers on the end of the socket extension - backing out and screwing them back in making sure they thread in smoothly. Never use the socket wrench to thread the plugs in. And one 'click' only on the torque wrench! No anti seize on the plug threads but a small <I mean small> dab on the seating area of the inside edge of the plug mating surface. <Not anywhere near the threads>

Good luck.

aviography

Mike,

You have to admit that was just too good an entertainment!

Yes I've done a couple of doozies in my car hobby DIY career too, but never quite as good as this one though.

So, regardless what you plan to do to repair the oil pan gasket, before you proceed further, do you have a wrench to loosen the oil cartridge housing? The housing is reusable but is made of plastic and needs either a proper cdn$50 metal socket to securely fit over the housing to loosen, or a strap style oil filter wrench which can be bought from Canadian Tire, I used the strap wrench last fall without any issue.

As well, the socket for the bolts would be in "mm" and not "cm" size, else it would one BMF bolt!

Finally, you are a LONG way from the AOS replacement, only Porsche can manage to make (essentially) a PCV valve requiring several hours to change when other cars typically require only a few minutes.