3.6 rebuild
#61
Three Wheelin'
#62
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#63
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2001 3.6 longblock for sale
2001 3.6 longblock rebuilt & for sale $15,000.
Last edited by Byprodriver; 08-05-2018 at 02:57 PM.
#66
Three Wheelin'
$4100 Nikasil rebore and JE pistons
$800-1k Valve job and engine balancing
$2-3k OE Porsche Parts
$1-2k Other stuff (lifters, break in oil, ARP bolts, LNE paddle, etc.)
I think it can be done for $8-10k on a budget DIY.
Other optional above this "while you're in there" would be rods @ $1.5k, performance camshaft grind @ $850.
$800-1k Valve job and engine balancing
$2-3k OE Porsche Parts
$1-2k Other stuff (lifters, break in oil, ARP bolts, LNE paddle, etc.)
I think it can be done for $8-10k on a budget DIY.
Other optional above this "while you're in there" would be rods @ $1.5k, performance camshaft grind @ $850.
Last edited by logray; 11-04-2011 at 05:37 PM.
#67
$4100 Nikasil rebore and JE pistons
$800 Valve job and engine balancing
$2-3k OE Porsche Parts
$1-2k Other stuff (lifters, break in oil, ARP bolts, LNE paddle, etc.)
I think it can be done for $8k on a budget
Other optional above this "while you're in there" would be rods @ $1.5k, performance camshaft grind @ $850.
$800 Valve job and engine balancing
$2-3k OE Porsche Parts
$1-2k Other stuff (lifters, break in oil, ARP bolts, LNE paddle, etc.)
I think it can be done for $8k on a budget
Other optional above this "while you're in there" would be rods @ $1.5k, performance camshaft grind @ $850.
It takes easily 30h of work to do this.... Just for the engine, plus the work to remove and install the engine to the car.
#68
Three Wheelin'
Interesting... my 3.4l to 3.6l conversion JE pistons arrived today and they are flat topped, unlike the ones in the engine you built. Same marking on the back, 96MC4.
Also, reading LN's support site, they recommend a minimum .002" of end gap per inch of bore for the rings. 2nd ring .001" larger, and .015" for the oil rings. Wear limit being 0.0393". With a bore size of 3.8976" this works out to something completely different (less than half) of what JE recommends.
Top = .0077"
2nd = .0087"
Oil = .0150"
Yet reading JE's end gap instructions, they recommend .0045"/bore inch for the top ring and .0050" for the 2nd ring, same min .015" for the oil ring as LNE.
Top = .0175"
2nd = .0194"
Oil = .0150"
Also, reading LN's support site, they recommend a minimum .002" of end gap per inch of bore for the rings. 2nd ring .001" larger, and .015" for the oil rings. Wear limit being 0.0393". With a bore size of 3.8976" this works out to something completely different (less than half) of what JE recommends.
Top = .0077"
2nd = .0087"
Oil = .0150"
Yet reading JE's end gap instructions, they recommend .0045"/bore inch for the top ring and .0050" for the 2nd ring, same min .015" for the oil ring as LNE.
Top = .0175"
2nd = .0194"
Oil = .0150"
#69
what type of brush do you use? Plastic bristles - like a toothbrush? How much did you dilute the simple green?
How did you remove the head gasket material?
How about storage after you clean everything? The camshafts are steel right? How did you store these so they don't rust? Do you just cover in WD40? or Oil? How about the aluminum, any issue with oxidation after cleaning?
#70
Three Wheelin'
I am slowly tearing down my 3.4 with cracked cylinder #2 , finally have it apart to crankshaft craddle!
what type of brush do you use? Plastic bristles - like a toothbrush? How much did you dilute the simple green?
How did you remove the head gasket material?
How about storage after you clean everything? The camshafts are steel right? How did you store these so they don't rust? Do you just cover in WD40? or Oil? How about the aluminum, any issue with oxidation after cleaning?
what type of brush do you use? Plastic bristles - like a toothbrush? How much did you dilute the simple green?
How did you remove the head gasket material?
How about storage after you clean everything? The camshafts are steel right? How did you store these so they don't rust? Do you just cover in WD40? or Oil? How about the aluminum, any issue with oxidation after cleaning?
Head gasket material? You mean the coating on the MLS gasket? Should come right off with hot water and your degreaser. Or do you mean the silicone gaskets? Acetone/paint thinner work best there. Razor blade if you are very skilled (otherwise you can slice right through the aluminum).
Something with larger stiff plastic bristles, hot water.
I've used as much as 50% simple green, but with that high a concentration you MUST rinse thoroughly very soon after, followed by tons of dry compressed air. You can also use an engine degreaser provided it is also rinsed thoroughly as well, but I don't like the smell and it is pretty toxic. Unless your parts are already clean, you should collect the water and dispose of it properly.
My parts are stored in a very clean tool cabinet with some paper towels and newspaper to absorb moisture. I save the final cleaning until final assembly so most of the parts are still covered in a film of oil from when they were removed.
#71
Also, reading LN's support site, they recommend a minimum .002" of end gap per inch of bore for the rings. 2nd ring .001" larger, and .015" for the oil rings. Wear limit being 0.0393". With a bore size of 3.8976" this works out to something completely different (less than half) of what JE recommends.
Top = .0077"
2nd = .0087"
Oil = .0150"
Yet reading JE's end gap instructions, they recommend .0045"/bore inch for the top ring and .0050" for the 2nd ring, same min .015" for the oil ring as LNE.
Top = .0175"
2nd = .0194"
Oil = .0150"
Top = .0077"
2nd = .0087"
Oil = .0150"
Yet reading JE's end gap instructions, they recommend .0045"/bore inch for the top ring and .0050" for the 2nd ring, same min .015" for the oil ring as LNE.
Top = .0175"
2nd = .0194"
Oil = .0150"
As you know, aluminium has bigger thermal expansionrate.
Allso these nicasil cyliders have less friction = less heat on the rings??
#72
Three Wheelin'
The answer to my earlier question is...
End gap should be very close to the JE specs, .015 for top, .016 for 2nd and same as above for oil.
And flat topped pistons are the latest version, as they apparently continually revise the design.
Thanks Charles!
End gap should be very close to the JE specs, .015 for top, .016 for 2nd and same as above for oil.
And flat topped pistons are the latest version, as they apparently continually revise the design.
Thanks Charles!
#73
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#75
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But they do have a big core charge.